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Everything posted by AlpineK
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	Cool stuff!
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	That's just it skills + smarts will get you out of most perdicaments. If you're too lazy to gain some practical experience before you go out on your big trip then you deserve most of whatever bad happens to you.
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	Written topo here All I can say is it's pretty straight forward through #6 then things get funky. Looking back on the hike out I saw some rock higher up that looks good but lower angle. Maybe I'll go back for a rematch.
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	Good god; what's up with modern climbers. All you need is a map and a compass. You could take a GPS too; that would make things easier. LEARN HOW TO NAVIGATE BEFORE YOU GO TO MUIR Maybe you need to take your mom along. She could hold your hand as you descend from Muir.
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	Climb: Big Four -Tower 1 Date of Climb: 8/14/2005 Trip Report: CrazyJZ and I decided to check out the route on tower 1 of Big Four. We left Maltby at about 6 AM. The hike in was pretty straight forward. Just look for the beat down ferns. A little bit of brushy class 4 got us to the base of the route. Mark near the base of the route. I led the first pitch; which was this chimneyish pitch to a couple bolts at a ledge. CJZ headed out on the 2nd pitch Unfortunately CJZ is a bad face climber. Don't get me wrong he can climb hand cracks like mad, but put him on a bolted face and he starts whimpering. Anyway after 3 clips CJZ had had enough so I took over and led the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Top of 2 The technical crux of the route was pitch 3 and I would definately give it a 5.10a rating. Top of 3 Mark finally led a pitch Pitch 4 Then I led pitch 5. Top of 5 Cjz led pitch 6, which is described in the topo as an amazing hand crack. We don't agree with that, but it isn't bad. Pitch 6 From here on out things get funky. We got off route. I led this crazy tree/rock pitch and then I led another after CJZ started whimpering due to lack of pro on a short step. Anyway we took forever and then it was getting late. Eventually we got to the bivi ledge at the top of pitch 8. CJZ has a temper tantrum throwing personality; and the frustrating route finding brought that out in him. I of course could see what was happening to him, so I chose to make matters worse by adopting a positive can do attitude that I knew would infuriate him. Anyway the number 1 quote I remember from Sunday afternoon was, "I hate you, and I hate Mark Hanna, but mostly I hate you." We decided to rap after that. Rapping through trees made CJZ's temper get worse; suddenly in a fit of rage he threw hisw helmet off the crag. Fortunately the rapping got better and we made it to the base of the climb without further incident. Later that night we had dinner in Granite Falls and everything was better. Approach Notes: I can't comment on the upper pitches, but pitch 1-6 make a good cragging route. The rock is funky since it's conglomerate, which is an unusual type of rock. The 1st, 5th, and 6th pitches take gear. I also placed 1 piece of gear on pitch 3. Gear to 4" If you plan on going past P6 bring some webbing for raps since I think they need some more back up.
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	Exactly, you made a judgement that the bolt you placed is appropriate for the route. The important thing is that is your judgement. Other people might not have felt the same way. Did you consult with others before you placed that bolt?
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	Carefull there Eric. Your route next to Carnival Crack has a bolt nearby a crack. A ballsey climber wouldn't need your bolt.
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	We found some climbing to do that wasn't too hot. I spent 3 years working outdoors in CO, and I can say that the PNW doesn't have extreme heat or cold. However we do have an excess of moderate weather which makes adapting to anything verging on hot or cold harder to deal with. I know after 3 months of 90+ temps in CO I could deal with it (sort of ) PS Mike Layton the wind chill scale is something sissys talk about.
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	My advice is to head straight to Enumclaw and pick yourself up a nice goat. Stay away from the horses though...unless you're into that kind of action. You might try the Reptile Zoo off HWY 2. Reptiles need love too.
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	They have huts in the mountains.
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	Oh sure... conveniently forget about 1859 when we kicked YOUR ass! Well... I guess it was actually a pig, and not an ass... ... but at least we got the San Juans out of the deal! That's right we beat your ass in the only war that counts. The Pig War
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	Hello this is reality; year 2005. PS Dave, you'll never get kicked out let alone let in since Canada is too far to bike to.
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	I figure they let you pump your own gas, so they aren't retards like OR. Things are a bit funky up there; I guess not having enough backbone to stand up to the brits really bites you in the ass years later.
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	I understand how Rumr feels. Poop makes some post that is clearly hyperbole, and thus Rumr responds in kind. Poop might have something to say worth listening to regarding bolts, but the tactics he uses render him worthy of no response other than what Rumr said. It would be nice to see a serious debate regarding bolting in WA state. There are a lot of overbolted routes. The problem is that the anti bolt side doesn't want to take the effort to make a serious argument. God damn it Eric you've got a fucking Phd in math; therefore you can argue logically, but you're too fucking lazy to bother when it comes to bolting. Maybe you really don't care that much about rock/climbing. Edit: I missed the post that Ian was talking about, but after reading it I still don't see why Rudy should take Eric seriously. It's not about 1 post; its about your posting pattern.
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	At the very least admit your true feelings for each other Oh yeah
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	Chimneys rule.
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	Come on guys don't let us down.
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	I'd like to see some more personal details aired in public. Perhaps you two share a love interest? Or maybe just maybe you both have feelings for each other you haven't expressed. Of course you can also go the junior high route and meet after scool out by the bike racks. Please keep us posted
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	The plot thickens
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	Climb: Prusik Peak-South Face Date of Climb: 8/7/2005 Trip Report: Jeff H and I climbe Prusik peak via the south face. We hiked in from the snow lakes side. The hike was nice; I haven't been up that trail in a long time. Prusik Peak We got to the base of the face at about 7:30 and decided to do as many chimneys as possible, so I led the first pitch via the chimney. South Face from the bottom Top of the first pitch From their there's a bunch of nice climbing to the chockstone chimney and the flairing chimney above. I led this as one pitch. Part way up the flairing chimney Jeff led the pitch to the summit. I really like how the climb ends at the summit instead of turning into bullshit 1 or 2 pitches below the top. Jeff on the Summit Pitch View of Little Anapurna From the top we did 4 single rope rappels and then traversed to the west ridge. A little scrambling and one more rappel got us back to our packs. From the base of the face it's a long way out, but it's a good climb!! Gear Notes: Standard rack to 4" Approach Notes: We'd heard about the horror show around Colchuck lake, what with no painted dots marking the trail, so we chose Snow lakes as the approach. To our horror their were no painted dots there either, but we managed to survive.
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	One point that gets overlooked is that a real life lesson in the concequences of an action is much more efective than a hypothetical one. Did we stop a nuclear war with the Russians when we both had enough firepower to destroy human life because everybody had a real understanding of what nuclear weapons did?
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	I'm just saying he's going to end up with a * next to each TR
 
