Courtenay

Jon's right on this; if you don't have a significant other who can help with massage, try a tennis ball -- great for working out trigger points -- if you can get at them. If it's middle, upper or the upper part of the lower back (i.e. anything you can't reach but could lean against a tennis ball against a wall or door) try easing the ball onto the point, then just off, as you can tolerate the pain. Chances are it's not the points that are seized up, they're just trigger points for other spots causing you problems. If you can do some gentle yoga try that, or look for some appropriate stretches by searching the Body Results archives at www.bodyresults.com. Good luck. Keep us posted.

"reasonable amount" in 60 days depends on how much you have to lose. 1-2 pounds a week is considered a safe rate of loss (i.e. you won't destroy lean and it won't be all water weight) so if you have it to lose, you can expect to lose roughly 8-10 pounds, realistically, depending again on where you're starting from and how much you're willing to tweak your diet. If you stop strength training, you're going to compound the problem, as that's what contributes to the lean, metabolically active tissue. Don't forget interval training!! BUT you might want to tweak your strength training and go more for reps in the 15-20 range with very short rest intervals (as in a circuit) so that you get strength AND aerobic benefits at once. Sometimes that does the trick; if you're already doing that, then going to the opposite extreme and training more for raw strength (i.e. in the 3-6 reps range with more rest) might do wonders combined with interval training. If what you're doing now isn't working, you gotta CHANGE IT.

Blocks, pipes, PVC, washcloths wrapped around handles -- BUT remember to always keep it as close to the grip you're trying to train as you can. If you have trouble with wide slopers, you need to train your wide grip; if you have trouble with crimpers, you need to train that. One argument against "just" climbing to train grip is most climbing routes don't hit the same grip over and over again -- unless you're using HIT strips (ONLY for the most advanced of us or beware injury) OR setting routes specifically to allow you to work your weaknesses. Again, start with the end in mind -- your target or goal -- and then figure out how best to get you there.

Yes, that's me. If any of you want a copy of your new Freedom of the Hills 7 or Train to Climb Mt. Rainier video signed, stop by for my talk next Wednesday, 9/24 at downtown REI from 7-8 p.m. Love to get a chance to meet some of these "code names" in person!

Peter, check out some of the program ideas we have on Body Results, and then get your butt into gear with off-season strength and interval training: here are a few places to start: http://www.bodyresults.com/E2FartlekIntervals.asp http://www.bodyresults.com/E2SMARTgoals.asp and of course http://www.bodyresults.com/s1climb.asp will lead you to off-season, pre-season, and other programs. Key like Jon said is to figure out what your goals are -- where were you weakest this year? What do you wish you could do better or differently? Then figure out what is missing in your program and start putting that as a high priority. Intervals will help with fat burning, and don't forget DIET -- as the daylight hours get shorter and we start to hybernate, slow down, do less, eat more (your pick, or all of the above) it is CRUCIAL that you not take in more than you're using or you will continue to gain weight. Consider picking up something like snowshoeing or skiing to have an interim goal so you keep going to the mountains and staying active, that will make it much easier to start at a higher level come spring than you did the previous year.

Actually, it doesn't sound like plantar fasciitis to ME unless the pain you're experiencing is on the BOTTOMS of the feet near the heel. So which is it, tendons to the sides of the ankle, or fascia on the soles of the feet? If the latter, then take a look at what you can do about it at http://www.bodyresults.com/E2plantarf.asp. Good luck and give us more details.

Actually, we must have been just on your heels (we did this the very same weekend) but we DID find a snow patch just on the west side of a notch at 8200 feet, if you recall there's a string of about 6 bivy spots all at one place and then a view to the west if you top out left of them -- if you go 30 feet down the other side, voila, an old snow bank that relinquished an extra 6.5 liters for our party of four. Helps to look all around while you're climbing, you never know what you'll find. And thank goodness, we encountered NO snafflehounds. However, we certainly DID catch whiffs of smoke at our nice 8,200' bivy in the couloir! Awesome climb, can't wait to do it again now that we know the route.

It sounds a little like it may be your trapezius muscles, in which case try several of the stretches shown here: http://www.bodyresults.com/E2keystiff.asp -- particularly the first one pictured. You may also benefit from upright rows (otherwise referred to as high pulls) with band, barbell or dumbbells, or shrugs. Yoga can help, if you find the right pose (focus on those that open up through the chest and shoulders, such as triangle pose and warrior 1-2, crescent) -- and if you're in the market for a good video or DVD for home instruction , I might suggest Karen Voight's Yoga Sculpt or Yoga Focus (both available at http://www.bodyresults.com). She's a great instructor and I love both of these DVD's.

Have you tried stretching? Take a peek here for ideas on care for the ankles, Achilles, feet and calves: http://www.bodyresults.com/s2calves.asp and http://www.bodyresults.com/E2Anklesprains.asp and http://www.bodyresults.com/E2footcare.asp. Beyond that, find something that you CAN comfortably do -- does it hurt to walk, run, cycle, hike? What DOES NOT hurt? You may be more comfortable swimming or biking for a while. Have you quickly increased your activity level recently? Have you had a rest/day off in a while? (What's your exercise program like?) Do you stretch or include strength training? Best advice: if you do a lot of bouldering, stay away from hard drops onto the feet until you increase the strength in your ankles. No amputation yet. Good luck.

And I'll repeat what I've already said earlier: "The thing about most diets out there is that they will work for SOMEONE, some time, but no diet works for everyone." Mtnwoman, if you've found something that works for you, (whether real or imagined) then GREAT, keep doing what you're doing. Will it work for others? Maybe. Everyone? NO. Even the "perfect diet" will not work for everyone, because there will always be those who for whatever reason choose not to (or can't) stick with it. Any eating plan has to include tasty foods and be at least somewhat enjoyable, and fairly easy to follow, or nobody will be able to live with it for life. Moderation is a pretty easy rule to follow, and (as you point out with the 95%) if you can "pretty much" follow any sort of plan that requires you to take in less than you expend, you'll be far better off than most. The huge trick is to find what works for each individual, and what works at certain stages in one person's life won't necessarily work at the rest of the stages!

The thing about most diets out there is that they will work for SOMEONE, some time, but no diet works for everyone. Instead of spending money on a bunch of books, follow this plan: MODERATION -- take in fewer calories than you expend -- IF you're trying to lose weight, that is -- and try to eat a wide variety of foods... then of course there will always be those comics who interpret that suggestion as bacon, beer, bananas and berries (AHA, a new diet, the "B" foods diet!), but hopefully you get my drift.

Actually, I'm with you, when I do the 5% training I stick to 4 sets myself. This was originally discussed by Charles Poliquin (6-1 wave loading) and I also modify that to do 4 sets (6-1-6-1) so always adapt to your own body's needs and recovery. Another point to make: the heavier the load and fewer reps, the more sets you need to do; if you're doing sets of 12-15, for example (high volume) you may be able to get away with only two sets. If you're doing sets of 3-5, you probably want to do 4 sets. Hope that helps a bit.

Peter, you might also want to take a look at the 5% solution, it's done wonders for me -- http://www.bodyresults.com/E25solution.asp and also, for those of you wondering whether to push to failure, see our article on Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) for strength training at http://www.bodyresults.com/E2RPE.asp.

FYI for anyone interested our ankle rehab article is up at http://www.bodyresults.com/E2AnkleSprains.asp.

Lots of words flying around here. First off, a calorie is a calorie -- too many consumed (whether from protein, fat, or carbs) will result in weight gain. Too few will result in weight loss. HOWEVER, if you're trying to lose mass, you want to try to maintain lean muscle at all costs (i.e. consume more protein and cut carbs.) Most people will find that as they try to lose fat, they're also losing a little lean -- key is to limit the amount of lean lost along with the fat. As to bodyfat percentages, I must admit I'd doubt VERY strongly that any beer-guzzling climbers on these pages (you know who you are) are down at 3 or even 5% bodyfat, as very very few of the elite "bodybuilder types" who are specifically TRYING to get that lean for competition can reach that low a percentage, much less maintain it for any amount of time beyond competition. If you're getting those values from eyeballing, try again. Tanita scales, try again. Calipers, I'd question the one doing the measurements AND recall that there is a +/- 3% error (i.e. 5% might actually be 8%, and reasonable for a lean climber). Dunk tank is the way to go. FYI the general (YMCA accepted) guidelines for "normal" (and I know you all want to be "supernormal", "abnormal" or "anything but normal") are 16% for men and 26% for women; climbers, triathletes, bikers, and other very active people may get to 13-18% for women, 8-13% for men; and below that we're talking either health problems, ultra-active, or elite. Hope that helps to some degree.

Hey Ted, I'd suggest ice within the first 72 hours after any acute strain to reduce the swelling, then start to alternate between ice and heat (15 minutes of each) to increase blood flow to the area and enhance nutrient supply and healing. This page seems to have a pretty good summary of treatment: http://www.mckinley.uiuc.edu/Handouts/anklesprain/anklesprain.html. In any case, when the swelling is pretty much gone, icing ceases to be of much use.

p.s. Ted, Goode was awesome! Thanks for the beta -- didn't realize "Terrible Ted" was actually one I knew! I'll have a trip report up on the Body Results Website later this week complete with pictures.

All good suggestions. I'd also recommend side hill walking once you've done the alphabet, bands, calf raises and 1-leg balancing; consider using a loose ACE wrap as you start moving back into walking/hiking with sturdy boots, and if you have access to a bike or elliptical trainer they would make good interim cardio choices until the ankle feels much better. Last to add in: running and side-to-side impact movements (i.e. soccer, hoops, etc.) Feel free to check out our article at http://www.bodyresults.com/S2calves.asp dealing with calves and ankles, and our August 2003 Body Results newsletter will have a whole article on dealing with sprained ankles, since this is the season when so many people start to experience such problems! If you'd like to subscribe to the free monthly newsletter and receive training tips on climbing and preventing common injuries, simply send an e-mail to trainer@bodyresults.com with "subscribe cc" in the subject line.

For more on Tanita bodyfat scales, feel free to check out this page: http://www.bodyresults.com/E2Tanitabodyfat.asp They tend to work only if you stay very well hydrated, and for women who fluxuate with their cycle, such scales are not really reliable. Find someone who is experienced with skinfold calipers (heck, I do that for my clients) and have them test/retest you in order to determine general trends. They're reliable to roughly 3%, so if someone gives you a 16.53% realize that 1) they're not that precise and 2) it really means you're in the ball park range of 13-19%...

Ouch! I'd ask a podiatrist, they MAY actually have some insights into this one. My guess is it's probably going to hurt for a while; I've heard that gelatin has nail strengthening properties, though I can't say whether that applies to "speed of growth". As for helping the pain, have you been taking any pain killers at all? Call a doc and see if they have some insights. Or the nurse hotline if you're in King County: MED-INFO. As for the "off yourself, man" suggestion, I'd say BALONEY. Try some USEFUL suggestions, guys. Here's one I'm sure SOMEONE will bring up: think of the climber who recently sawed off his arm to save his life; this can't possibly be any worse, can it?

I stand corrected, "MAY" help. I personally have never been to one; when I had plantar fasciitis last year (leading to this article at http://www.bodyresults.com/E2plantarf.asp) I found that an Active Release Techniques practitioner (soft tissue therapist) actually was the one to help me, but then again I tend to self-help or look outside of main stream medicine for any issues that I experience... For every situation, there is SOMEONE out there who can help in some way, the key is to find the right person for the issue. Good luck.

Fence, we got the point (way, WAY too many times): you suggest pickle juice. This whole thread deteriorated rapidly until Carolyn offered the following: Lets see if I can get this all straight.... My understanding is that maltodextrin (a complex carbohydrate) empties much more easily from the stomach than plain glucose and provides a more even release of energy. I believe this is an ingredient in cytomax. Im pretty sure gatorade does not have this ingredient. Powerade does...except the first ingredient is fructose syrup. According to a friend of mine who has done a great deal of research on this stuff, most people lose salt and potassium at about the same rate, so you should aim to get a drink with somewhat equal amounts of each. Gatorade has somewhat of a big difference between the two. I believe cytomax is fairly equal. Powerade is a bit more equal than gatorade. Ive been drinking watered down powerade. I have noticed it sits in my system easier than gatorade...as long as I go for the lighter flavors (lemonlime, artic blast, etc). Plus, I like to believe that it really does have 'vitamins' in it (b6 and b12). I dont know why I bother tho...cause no matter how much fluids I take in...Im still constantly dehydrated. Grrrrr!

A podiatrist can help, as may this article with suggestions: http://www.bodyresults.com/E2footcare.asp

I totally agree, I can't understand why anyone would choose to ascend the N. Ridge anytime other than very early season. It's a bunch of scree, talus, jagged lava, with some tricky snow fingers to the (left ascending) of the spires, I'd strongly urge an ascent on any other route, then a ski descent, carry over to south side, OR bite the bullet and just descend it. Good views, but unpleasant. Here's a link to a trip report/pictures of our Adams Glacier ascent/N. Ridge descent two weeks ago: http://www.bodyresults.com/A2Adams.asp

And for what it's worth, I find I can usually tolerate more of the Gatorade flavors (we have consumed fierce lime, orange, fierce berry, berry-citrus and fruit punch at various times in our household) but I can't even be in a room with the Cytomax smell. What works for me is a dilution of 1:1 Gatorade (fluid) with water, or enough powder in water "to taste". I'm one who will for whatever reason let myself go thirsty if I have only filtered or iodine-tableted water, but if there's flavoring I have a MUCH higher chance of staying hydrated... I think it's individual preference, though as Jon shows there are actually more carbs (read: calories) per 8 oz. serving of Cytomax, AND by diluting the Gatorade 1:1 that reduces the per-8-oz values even more... Solution? a Gu packet followed by a couple huge gulps of beverage of choice (non-alcoholic of course!!)