rbw1966

The rubber bands that they wrap around produce (broccoli comes to mind) works great for tightening the biners on the draws.

quote: Originally posted by beefcider: MF cameras are expensive and the ones light enough to climb with are horribly expensive. Sorry for rambling... Get a Holga. Its medium format and runs about 25 skins. Sure, its plastic and a toy camera but you'll be surprised how good the pics turn out. Thanks for the info

Go to Skull Hollow. Much mellower scene.

"I've tripped and I can't come down" "My kid beat up your honor student"

Does it work without batteries? Can you override all the auto settings, i.e. set everything manually? Thanks By the way, how was the ice on Illumination?

quote: Originally posted by rodeo: Alex, I guess Brian should have posted it, but I got to him first on the screws. (--Climb on,,, Rodeo You boys up north play hard. Wake up the gimp!

When were you at Smith? I was on Koala Rock last Sunday (3/31).

quote: Originally posted by Slide: The entire crag is on private property. It goes towards paying for improvements to the crag, and I'm sure a portion goes towards reimbursing the owner of the property for the funds he spent on a lawyer drawing up the liability-release form and for storage of the forms. The owner keeps a copy of all of the waivers on file and occasionally checks up on climbers. He is very friendly though. Oh, it's a one-time fee. If you want more info go to: http://www.portlandrockgym.com/carver.htm This is not entirely true. The owner did not pay a lawyer to draw up the releases. An attorney donated her time. Besides, the property owner is a lawyer himself. Not only does he check up on climbers but I always ask climbers out there if they've signed a release and paid their $5 (which goes towards administrative costs like signs, copying the releases, etc). Access was threatened earlier last year when a couple of bozos walked through the owner's construction site to get to the crag, stalling the work that was being done. In spite of signs (and common sense) showing a detour. The owner has spent a lot of money on trail improvement projects. Members of the Carver Climbing Club have donated time and effort to helping out. The owner's being very cool for allowing climbing to take place there. Help out and make sure you sign a release. The $5 is a lot cheaper than a gym membership.

Someone email me and let me know where you will be at I'll try and make it.

Carver has a lot of bouldering and even a guide now. Carver is on private property though, so respect the access we have by paying your $5 at the Portland Rock Gym and signing a waiver. Rob

Monte Cristo is pretty badass too.

quote: Originally posted by Big Wall Betty: It is my understanding that Fred Beckey has an honorary membership in the Mountaineers...ie they inducted him. Maybe with his permission, but I don't think he was really part of them. Betty has spoken. Whether honorary, inducted or voluntary, Fred is on the membership roles of the Mazamas. Thankfully, however, I am not.

quote: Originally posted by Raustin: Are you sellin' all of this? No. Just the stuff without prices.

quote: Originally posted by Don Gonthier: Hey Wayne. I was there a few weeks ago and it was fine. A few things have overgrown but nothing important and there are no crowds. Just like before Tim's guide came out. Its still closed to climbing though, so you got to be real low key and park the car down the road. I believe the county has given up on trying to quarry there because of land use laws and what not but, are unwilling to back down and open it up to climbing. The Access Fund is still in negotiations with the County in an effort to purchase the land and/or designate it as a state park. The hitch as I recall is that the County has to find an alternate site for quarrying.

Marijuana Linked to Sitting Around and Getting High The National Institute of Health released the results of a controversial new study today, one that links the drug marijuana to sitting around and getting high. The study, a comprehensive five-year survey of drug use among Americans, also suggests a possible connection between marijuana and getting baked off your ass. Aside from its uses in making cloth, providing life-saving medicine and constructing rope, the cannabis plant has also been found to get you stoned off your ass. "We have found that where there's marijuana," explained Institute spokesperson Roger Krell, "there's also a good chance of finding stoners on a couch passing around a bong." Krell added that in such situations, "There is also a strong likelihood of finding incense, a TV, and some chips, usually Ruffles." Krell would neither confirm nor deny the alleged link between marijuana and Pink Floyd's The Wall. He would confirm, however, that the album rules. "There is some seriously fucked-up shit on that album," he said. "Especially side two. Mother do you think they'll drop the bomb..." Marijuana, or "pot," as it is called on the street, is a harmless drug that helps you relax and feel mellow. Its only known side-effects are occasional uncontrollable laughter and mild hunger, or "the munchies." Not everyone agrees with the survey's findings. "Getting high is the least of marijuana's uses," said Matt Henner, President of Hemp For Victory and a total pothead. "The ancient Egyptians used hemp to build the pyramids. In the 1930s, the WPA used it to construct bridges and dams. Today it is used for medicine and as a non-polluting alternative to gasoline." Henner then admitted he was "wasted beyond belief." According to experts, drug use among 15-24 year olds is cool. "That's really the cool age to do drugs," said U.S. Drug Czar Bertrand Seaver. "When you're young, that's the thing to do. In fact, studies show that teenagers who smoke pot are far more likely to be accepted by the in-crowd." While drug use among young people is cool, experts say older people who still do drugs are losers. "A young person who does drugs is healthy and normal," said Harvard sociologist Beth Henterpen. "But if a guy's like 45, and he's still getting high, it's like, 'Get a life!'" Marijuana also has been proven to have the wonderful side-effect of enhanced sexual sensations, enabling some users to achieve transcendental states of erotic bliss. The study found that this link, however, was severely limited in many subjects because they had, due to sitting around all the time, never actually met members of the opposite sex. "But if they did," said Krell, "then it'd be amazing." So far, the study has met with formal protest by only two groups. The Alabama-based Center for the Christian Family, claimed the findings to be terribly inaccurate, noting marijuana's ability to "make users think they can fly and jump out of buildings, like on Quincy, as well as its tendency to induce demon possession, homicidal rampages, and homosexuality." Another group to object to the study was California rapping group Cypress Hill. "Marijuana's not linked to sitting around, man... It's linked to cruising the Barrio with a 40 and a 12 gauge, blowing pendejos away," said group member DJ Muggs. "Hand onna pump, puffin' on a blunt... la la la la laaaaaaaaaaa..." Courtesy of The Onion.

Since I got a gri-gri though I'll never use a jumar for top-rope soloing again. I still back up the gri with 8's though.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Yes, I have taken a fall and it held. I have talked to one guy who fell and the ascender torqued off the rope; so, it can happen. There is inherent risk since there is no backup to this system. It's all risk assessment, right?Greg I've used this system before as well. I backed it up by tying figure 8's on a bite and clipping them to an HMS on my belay loop. I liken it to jugging a fixed line--I back that up too. I've heard too many reports of jumars popping off to not back it up.

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Buck-up man, 'cause unless you plan to shuttle back to around to your car, you're gonna be downclimbing that section too...after that climbing up it will seem tame in comparison Downclimbing Cooper Spur is NOT recommended. A lot of people have lost their lives going down that route. Most people do a car shuttle.

quote: Originally posted by DonnV: Anyone done this or have info on best direction, approach and exit from the area? Thinking about a long solo day later on, and can arrange for drop-off at one trailhead and pick-up at another. Thats on my tic list as well. Rumor has it that the best way is north to south. When ya thinking of going? Are you skiing it?

My tale of woe with BDEL: I bought a Bibler Bombshelter for a climb of Denali. Three days before we fly to Alaska we're practicing setting it up in the yard whilst wearing heavy gloves. The tent pole shoots through my hand as I try to fit it in the corner and plunges right through the bottom of the tent. 5" or so gash in the tent floor. Oh, and its a Saturday. I call BDEL all freaked out and the guy says Fedex it to them and they will make sure I get it before we leave. "Are you sure?" I ask him because I;'d rather go with duct tape then not have the tent. He gives me the BDEL fedex account (gratis shipping), I get it out, they stitch a patch over the tear and I have it back by 9 Monday morning. If that isn't customer service I dont know what is. I guess it helps to pay 1K.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: here is some unslung for 37.99 http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAME&PROD_ID=32331 By the time you sling them you are looking at $60 or more. Unless of course you use accessory cord.

quote: Originally posted by erik: the master key for cars is not true.... Sure is. I have a friend who worked at a rental car lot. One key opened every model of a particular manufacturer.

quote: Originally posted by Paul detrick: nicely said from someone NOT from eastern washington. I don't live in the ozone layer either (nuch). Does that mean I should have no voice in its preservation?

First off, let me say I am sorry for your loss. It totally sucks to get your gear stolen like that. I--and my friends--have been climbing at Smith for years with no thefts recorded. But I almost never leave my gear unattended--in my car or otherwise. Usually there are one or two dogs there with it. One guy I know has set up a tent in the grasslands before for over a month with stuff inside of it. Not a thing stolen. It helps when your gear looks like shit I suppose. I'll be at Smith this weekend. I'll let you know if I find anything.

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: Like I said before go to Illumination Rock. I am going to scan a copy of the topos soon I hope! I've been at Illumination Rock (albeit a couple weeks ago) and I saw no ice. Is it on the west side or something?