Ade

I think Dru should provide another picture with some snow in it.

Yeah that was us... Unlike wazzumountaineer neither of us could ski for shit so the approach took a tad longer. There was at least 6" of new snow on the lake so we bailed. In case anyone is (still) wondering the ice routes on Dragontail are not iced. Lots of powder snow in the gullies and not much else.

Just because something doesn't get VC funding doesn't mean it's not a good idea. There are plenty of good businesses that VCs cannot or will not fund and plenty of bad businesses that have gotten funded.

Guess that's breaking trail sorted out for us then! Sweet!

What else is in? TO make it worth the drive from Seattle.

The link between Al and Alzheimers is still being debated and many researchers believe that AL present in the brains of Alzheimers patients is a symptom rather than a cause. Even if you choose to believe that there is a link the amount of Al you will get from cooking with Al pans is minimal, relative to the amount you'll absorb from; drinking tap water and showering/bathing in tap water (many water companies use Al componds during the purification process), some antacids and asprins, aerosol antiperspirants, the environment in general as Al is the third most common element in the Earth's crust. Al is also pretty reactive so your Al pans are covered with a layer of largely inert Al oxide which isn't going to be readily released into your food unless it's very acidic or salty. Anodized Al pans further prevent release of the metal into food. See: Dispelling Myths about Alzheimer’s

I wrote in my diary... "Oh, bugger!"

Cheaper still to simply kidnap Lyle and not let him go until he gives it all up.

Yep. That was it. Probably best removed. It was a bit on the directional side.

The full BMC helmet report (part 1) includes feedback from BD on the issue: "The Leeds results indicated a top impact force some 20% above that allowed by the CEN standard, whilst the notified body CRITT had measured a top impact force of less than 2kN during certification testing. When notified of this anomaly BD commented as follows: Thank you for notifying Black Diamond of discrepancies in test results discovered at the LEEDS laboratory. Black Diamond is concerned by the findings suggesting that our Halfdome helmet does not meet the CEN standard for mountaineering helmets. The Halfdome helmet has been tested and certified by the Notified Body, C.R.I.T.T. The wide variation in data between two reputable organizations is a serious concern to us.If our helmet is truly found to not meet the requirements of the CEN standard we will take all actions necessary to achieve conformance and, more importantly, to ensure the safety of all our customers worldwide. Our preliminary recommendation, which we have begun, is to establish communications between BMC/ LEEDS and CRITT to determine the root cause of the discrepancy and to correct it. Once this is complete all organizations should collectively evaluate if further action is required. We look forward to working with BMC/LEEDS to resolve these issues. The Technical Committee is in discussion with Black Diamond and will undertake further tests." Further tests, reported in part 2 have yet to 100% clear up this issue.

Thanks for the info. I TR'ed Waite for Spring (RHS direct) and the RHS of SteriStrip a few weeks back so I've started to get stuff figured out. I want to go back for No Deductable this w/e or next if the hordes aren't on it. Cheers...

Right rambles needs more ice on the slab and a second bolt by the first one to make bailing easier for them that get up there and discover that they don't fancy the corner without. Kudos to Bob for trying it. Looked hard from the belay and harder still from the first bolt. If anyone knows of any easier M- mixed lines around Lillooet, other than the stuff at Marble, then let's hear about them.

I stopped at the top but didn't try and go down it. Didn't look like it had seen any traffic.

The big news here is that Trask can now count to ten. We can only hope that finally passing remedial English has made it to the top of his list of New Year's resolutions for '04.

I don't think it's really formed at the moment. I looked at it from the road over the weekend and the main curtain hadn't touched down. I don't think I've ever seen it in as fat as the picture in the guide. In fact I don't think I've seen it form up. Don?... "Three Ring Circus; fact, ephemeral or outright myth. Discuss".

Could go either way, depending on the winter/spring weather. When I did it there was a lot of hard ice (low snow year), the traverse out from TR first thing in the morning being very "memorable" and there was much more front pointing after that. On the other hand I've heard people say they pretty much felt didn't need a second tool and kicked steps in neve the whole way.

If you want to go name calling then take it to spray.

In Trask's case I think you mean orifice.

Go'in board'in instead. Cheers...

Looks like the weather will be good until tomorrow night. If anyone is interested in getting out tomorrow for the day to try some winter climbing then PM me. I figure at the very least some stuff up at Snoqualmie will be thin but climbable, probably avie conditions will dictate what's approachable. I'd also be open to other options. Ade (out from noon until late afternoon but will check when I get back)

Yes it's true. Joe made the whole thing up from start to finish. He horribly mangled his leg in a bar fight in Huraz and he and Yates subsequently made up the story in order to land a lucrative sponsorship deal with Gerber Knives Inc.

Has anyone been up there in winter? What's the approach like? You ski from the road directly, rather than taking the FS road up but how long/hard is it? I'm a very crappy skier. A lot of the terrain up there looks like it presents a considerable avie hazard. Is it worse/better than might be expected? Has anyone here climbed it in winter? Cheers, Ade

BD have discontinued the Shrikes. The heads are identical to other BD tools, overall they're marginall lighter than most of the other BD offerings. The Alaska picks (not listed on bdel.com but still available) work great for general alpine use.

If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex Do you have any info on this? I can't find any reference to another line on the Snoqualmie headwall having been climbed (Beckey, ClimbingWashington.com or the past ten plus years worth of AAJ). Which aid line are you refering to? Where does it go exactly? When you say freed at MHard do you mean it's been climbed in winter free?

Rethel... The really obvious couloir line on the RHS of Jordop's picture is the one Don and I climbed a few weeks back. Lots of bomber neve with a very short steep section to finish. Ray... There's lots of drips up there above the hut, fed from the glacier below Weart. But like Don said they're exposed and will bake very quickly. Maybe a couple of lines with some pitches of say... 3+ (eyeball grade from the trail). Ade