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Ade

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Everything posted by Ade

  1. My boots need some restitching. Can anyone recommend anywhere on the East side that does a good job. Thx Ade
  2. hey ade, is a tricky reminiant some kind of wily cow? And parties behind us bivvied and didn't get back to the hut until gone 5am. Another helping of suck that I was glad not to consume. A Tricky Ruminant is indeed a large angry even-toed hoffed animal (so camels, and giraffes also count). Only found on the slopes of Mt Jofree and other regions with exceptionally low literacy rates, like CC.com. As opposed to a remanent, which is something entirely different. Ruminant, remanent... I'm going to have to contemplate this some more.
  3. Ooooh yes! The Central Couloir was squeeky and neve-licious this weekend for all but the last two hundred feet which were fluted and yukon-orrific with a tricky cornice reminiant to gain the summit. Of course it's raining now but you never know, might get another window soon. Ade
  4. You could try PMing LYleK and see if his West Coast Ice map is available yet.
  5. Ade

    Stoves!!!

    Good point. I made a wind shield for mine, a bit like an XGK windshield from tinfoil cut out of a baking tray.
  6. Ade

    Stoves!!!

    What do you want it for? It's hard to answer the question otherwise. For general cooking I'd recommend one of these... excellent for baking but not very portable: For summer camping I have an MSR Pocket Rocket and have been very pleased with it. The half empty canister thing is a pain in the butt and the stove is very tall making it easy to knock over. There was a review of these types of stoves last year in Climbing or R&I it did pretty well and was a bit cheaper than some of the others. I've also used the Giga Power and didn't notice any significant advantages over the MSR. It also seemed to cook slower. You can use a canister stove in very cold conditions but you have to insulate the canister and build a heat exchanger to recycle heat from the burner back to the canister. You can also make a dragonfly into a hanging stove. I've seen this done but never used one. I'm guessing you could do the same with an XGK. Has anyone else done this? How good was it? The other alternative is to build a stove base out of plywood for cooking on snow and/or in a tent. I have one of these and it's great. Attach some shock cord to hold the fuel bottle and spray it with heat resistant muffler paint. Note: The bottom of an XGK will still get hot enough to delaminate a thermarest through the wood! Put socks or something else made of natural fibers under the wood to provide more insulation.
  7. The Glacier Road was starting to wash out on Sunday. The river has burst its banks and is eroding the road surface about 4 miles from the main road. I informed the Ranger Station in Glacier but have no idea what, if any, action they planned to take. I would definitely call before heading to Baker. Ade
  8. I'll vouch for Petzl. I have a Zoom that's been going for 16 years!
  9. You're twisting my mellon man
  10. I have a set opf lockdowns for alpine climbing and they're mearly "OK". They're another example of a BD product that needs a couple more revisions to be called "good". The main problem being that the buckle that's supposed to stop the leash closing too tight around your wrist is too small and fits through the tube of fabric. It needs a bigger buckle or better tollerence on the fabric stitching. I tried tying a knot around the buckle to make it larger but this only helps a little.
  11. Ade

    Music taste?

    How about For something a bit more classical: Philip Glass John Cage Isaac Gillory Balanescu Quartet Or electronic... Aphex Twin Orbital The Orb Obviously we should all listen to Ted Nugent too, he has so much good to say.
  12. British Antarctic Survey uses it also for clothing and tents. It's marketed as Ventile in Europe. It's fine if everything is well below freezing but does not work in damp environments. I've seen someone get seriously wet in a Ventile jacket in relatively light rain. Of course if it's well below freezing then you don't need GTX either you can go for a much more breathable non-waterproof shell. I suspect you'll find that it's also much heavier than an equivalent shell or softshell. I think the reason BAS and the military like it is that it's also very durable. Definitely not Cascades gear though.
  13. The 1954 route on the S Buttress took the FA party a long time. Waterman gives atime of 14-28 days (10,300' and 12 miles).
  14. Met some guys in Leavenworth on Friday (19th) who'd been weathered off that morning so my guess is that there was more snow up high this weekend. If it stays clear and warm for a few days it should clear.
  15. It certainly is now you have to pay %8+ tax. Used to be OK if you waited for freeshipping specials.
  16. It's NEVER time for a snowshoe slog... snowshoes SUCK!
  17. Ade

    great day in town today

    Hey that's my joke! And we all know the answer is some stupid Miox pen. This thread is more horse's arse than the Calgary Stampede. Does anyone give a shit what Beck did at the weekend in Seattle?
  18. I have to agree I found it hard to figure out where one article began or finished. The Mooses Tooth profile was good though and the unclimbed lines feature constituted to mountain porn.
  19. Rucks are completely fine for lighter loads. Provided you pack it carefully. Granted the latest generation of packs are much lighter even with a frame so maybe you can have both, or a frame at minimal additional weight. Crux are making very light packs with a frame for example. WRT GoLite my point is I don't see the point of making a pack that holds a large volume if it can't carry the weight that volume will hold comfortably. This seems to go for the Andinista and Gust - fill them with typical climbing gear to capacity and they'll be very heavy and uncomfortable. I have a CCW Chaos and at 4300cu this is pretty uncomfortable fully loaded - I don't think I even had the expansion sleeve full. This has a three layer foam padded back, much more than the Gust, and for me is the upper limit of what you can do with a non-framed pack and it's 1200cu smaller than the Andinista. As MattP says - If you want a pack for huge loads then buy a nice comfy one, you aren't going to notice the additional few pounds. -- The original poster might want to check out the CCW as it's very similar in terms of design philosophy to the Andinista and quite a bit cheaper although smaller.
  20. I'd been told that the Gust has the same problem as the Andinista. Namely that if you filled it then it would be too heavy to carry with any comfort. Don't GoLite say it's really only good for 30lbs or so (if not then I read this in a review elsewhere).
  21. This is what I don't get about the Wild Things line of thinking... Seems that the Andinista carrys heavy loads very badly so why is it so big? 5500cu of pretty much anything is going to weigh a lot, especially climbing gear.
  22. Ade

    I'm outta here

    First time I've ever felt sorry for a Goth.
  23. A brief web search reveals: Andinista $350 Max volume 5500cu so it's smaller than the cloud. Max weight 4lbs 2oz Cloud 6500 $600 1lb 8oz to 4lb 11oz - depending on how many bits you take on/off
  24. SHAME on you for letting them get blunt and stay that way. SHAME ON YOU!
  25. Dare I say it... Trask is right... Those lovely RIAA guys just nailed a twelve year old for two grand. Record labels settle first of file-sharing lawsuits
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