Alex

500 miles, 9 hours to Banff.

that has to be the most complete blow-by-blow account of a route I've ever read online! I feel now like I don't even have to go climb it!

Jeebus, short answer is that a single 8.5 mm rope is standard on Mt Rainier. Carabiner options vary. I would pick up a copy of Andy Selters' Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue book and study it all winter long with your wife, going out on several weekends to practice the various systems, prussiking up a rope, and so on. Nice pics of Pakistan!

grasping at straws with a month to go

Jason just let me know that the ice climbing airs on October 21, 8:30pm on OPB-TV.

Its common to rappel straight off webbing or 6mm perlon without rings at all, especially if don't care about establishing a "proper" rap anchor for future parties.

See this thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/396303/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

glacier, those are some interesting numbers. For the most part, I thought it was pretty even, both candidates seemed to hold their own. So I am surprised to see the media call it for Edwards. I've always liked Cheney's demeanor and 4 years ago, while I thought Bush was an idiot, I thought...oh well, at least he is surrounding himself with smart people. 4 years later I know alot more, and while I still like Cheney's demeanor I wouldnt want him to be the next president if someone happened to assasinate the chimp in the next 4 years. Question for the mob: if you were Kerry, who would you have picked as your VP, if not Edwards?

404 on the link

I think if you had some free time you might not due too poorly just going even if you dont find a partner. There are enough hardmen hanging out in Talekeetna and in the range at any given time that with some social skillz you might easily recruit a worthy partner for a shorter trip.

I believe they used something more like, "If you're not with us, you are against us!" "If you are against us, you are not a patriot!" Ah, you mean like a big fuckin' mess in Iraq, that a certain current sitting president refuses to believe exists? so I've heard

I climb at Smith on a regular basis. Most people at Grasslands are small groups that retire early. I wouldnt call cops unless I went over to party central, asked them politely to please call it a night as others are trying to get their "send-sleep", and got some type of really obnoxious response. If the chicas didnt come over to you to work it out before-hand, they have nothing to complain about!

which just goes to show how much you know about anything at all, since the candidates didnt in fact know the questions before the debate. duh. go back to shagging sheep and ranting about how lame we all are since we cant climb 5.13 like you, but stay out of politics!

everytime I see a pic of Hood in the summer, I think "what a shitpile!" everytime I see a pic of Hood in the winter, I think "damn, yo, i am gunna climb that!"

Actually, there is a very faint path through the woods on climbers right of the streambed, however its hard to find in the dark and you're probably better off going up the streambed your first time up to the base of the route.

Carter was voted in based on his being a "common man with decent morals" - a "peanut farmer". Yes he didnt have that much experience, and was baptised by fire. Carter wasnt a great president, but sheeet look at him now! The man's on fire! Dukakis was a tool. Clinton was voted in because he was a rock star, and the elder Bush, while much more experienced, was on the tail end of 12 years of GOP in the White House. People wanted change. Thats one reason Bush was elected in 2000, people just wanted change. Bush seemed moderate even to most Dems, and so people werent particular enthralled with Gore, and were just like "what the hey?" I think 2004 is very different. I have spoken to very few people who are voting Bush, though there are some that I work with. Most people are like "what were we thinking??" I heard and later watched the debate. I thought Bush held his own against a vastly more prepared Kerry, which means that he didnt leave the audience gaping at how much of an idiot he was. But I think Kerry presented himself in a much better light than Bush. Interestingly, Bush himself used to be quite a good debater. He's gotten much worse over time, perhaps because he's just not practiced at it. Maybe he isnt "Hungry like a fuckin younger me." -eminem

and you define significant number as what, 2?

I think the answer is that misinformation is still a very powerful weapon for both camps. Manipulating the media anyway possible is powerful for both Dems and GOP. Poll results at this point are going to show what the paymaster wants them to. As an aside, I think the polls after the debate will be a heckuva lot more interesting!

Ryland (and everyone else), wearing my moderator hat () I would suggest you and or Matt take jon up on his offer, which he posted on page 6 of this thread. "So in an effort to be more proactive I'm going to invite everyone to send Tim and I an email to tell us what you like and don't like about the website, what your thoughts about banning and moderation are, as well as anything else your little hearts desire to talk about. Please provide possible solutions to things you see wrong. For now you can send them to (climb) @ cascadeclimbers DAT com and in the subject put "Suggestion Box".

Ryland, actually, you quoted some stuff from Matt and then asked "I wish I knew who wrote this, so I could confront them!" I actually don't know who wrote what you quoted (it wasnt me [this time! ]), but its probable that the person who wrote that to Matt was not the person who banned Matt.

A really good point Stefan!

Ryland, why not just ask Matt L. who the moderator was? Then post that name here? He isnt opposed to sharing PMs with you, he shouldnt have any problem telling you who it was? Funny how "moderators" are not entitled to their own opinions on someone else's behavior Clearly, since we are all so damn out of control, you are treading on thin ice just by posting your own opinion on the matter.

great pic! http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/Pride/zsloan.JPG

agree wholeheartedly yes, so the story goes. The interesting thing to me was that Robbins had made an armchair judgement from the ground about the legitimacy of the ascent and its style, and had set out to erase it based on his own personal ethics and style. At the time it wasnt even an issue as to whether such an ascent was "legal" or not (or what have you), it was just a purely ethical debate on what "fair means" really meant in Yosemite big wall climbing. Robbins changed his mind because once on the route he found the climbing was in fact difficult and interesting, classic even. But it took actual experience with the medium to change his mind.