Alex

Heels down. Some good practice routes close to Calgary: Canmore Junkyards This House of Sky in the Ghost Grotto The first several pitches of Cascade (walk off Climbers right) Rogans Gully, next to Cascade Just pick of a copy of Joe Josephsons guidebook, its very well done and you'll quickly get familiar with all the good practice areas.

Dave, yes, too warm

"well covered" with light powder snow. I would give it a while. The reality is you wont find any water ice this early, its been too warm. AFA alpine ice, I think the best bet this early would be something like that stuff on Hood that the Oregon folks have been doing, or serac'ing on the Coleman etc. Alex

West Ridge of N Twin Sister is a good wintertime solo

Just to add to the apparent confusion, there is a drytooling crag at exit 38 too. It features 4 sets of TR anchors and one lead-bolted route, all on slabby rock from Mveryeasy to around M4+. If you want real detailed information, see Washington Ice or PM me.

Colin, specialed, myself all met at the Banff "Rose and Crown" instead of the Canmore "Rose and Crown" on Fri night. Oh well.

<mutter>great, bouldergirl meets boulderboywonder...</mutter>

Colchuck via Colchuck Glacier is a pretty commonly climbed overnight winter route

I agree with all of you, BD screws are much less useful here than Smileys or the "old" BD screws that had much larger (albeit differently aligned) hangers. Dru, I actually never realized that about vertical front points! I read your post and was like, "well, of course!".

The Cable at Banks Lake, when its formed. Other than that, most of the West Coast is lead-centric, very little TR-able ice at any grade. You need to go to Banff to warm up so you can climb ice around here

My advice: don't even think of getting them. You're friend should learn how to ice climb first before buying this (or any) type of specialized gear. That means - no ERGOnomic tools, no "fruit boots" (which is what real ice climbers call these).

I'll be up in the area, maybe i see you foo's Fri.

This did not happen, and I have not been able to get my Viper Fangs onto my Cobras with the same ease as I got them on my Prophets. You have to file so much plastic down, it makes the whole thing pretty suspect.

ROFL!

The Aztar is a slightly shorter tool than the quark, which accounts for some of the weight difference.

sounds like a job for a sled in a month from now!

As a day hike: Lake Serene near Index. Little chance of snow, just AMAZING view of Index peaks, short enough hike for even my parents!

just flippin' ya shit. "leashless" doesnt necessarily mean "ergo"! why not use the older style android leashes?

Lyle, what you're not climbing leashless????

see http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/413255/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

too expensive

I carry 3 10cm screws and 2 17cm TI screws for some routes where I think I might encounter ice. Perhaps a 13cm. For well known "real" ice routes such as Triple Couloirs in well-iced conditions I might carry more quantity.

Translation: KaskadskyjKozak - "I thought I gave you syphillis you butt licking Pole??" scott_harpell - "Bob! I thought >I< was the one. Isnt that what you told me? What about our tryst tomorrow? Please show up." KaskadskyjKozak - "Wait your turn, man, wait your damn turn!"

Both my grandfathers were WWII vets, both fought for the NAZIs in fact, one was a POW who detained in the US for many years - he loved the US! I am not ashamed of them, or of my views, so stuff it up your ass