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Alex

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Everything posted by Alex

  1. I predict I will be climbing ice in BC on Dec 19 and Dec 20.
  2. thx cut n paste, will fix in a moment edit: I am running into a wierd FTP bind error that is probably a result of me being behind a differnt proxy right now. I will fix from home later tonight.
  3. Earliest I've climbed at Strobach was the first week of Dec, during a cold year. We were still able to drive to the beginning of 609 road then witha minivan, and climbed Sad Ce'be in thin but protectable conditions. I don't think it's been really cold enough yet, but the moisture we have is critical component of fat climbs there.
  4. Hey all, I am going to try and keep up this year as always. http://www.wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx I'll take things from here but feel free to send me updates direct.
  5. I have two boxes of boys clothes for baby's under 1. Free I have a Peg Perego infant car seat - 25$ I'm looking for a full-body harness for my 3 year old. PMs please.
  6. Pure style. Thank you so much for sharing all that!
  7. So sorry to hear about his passing! I met Sean while working on the Washington Ice guide and he was a great contributor and fun person to be around! Jason and I tried to get his work into the ice guide but Mountaineers opted to do no color photos or other work, so sadly his art didn't get included at the time.
  8. Love the pine marten. I'm very surprised you actually saw one! I worked on a pine marten project back in the 1990's and they are very elusive even when you are trying very hard to find them!
  9. Nice report, I too have always wondered about this face but never committed the time to just go do it. Nice to see someone try it out..
  10. Nice effort! Hey, you're still alive, good work.
  11. nice work!
  12. Alex

    Uptight Seattle-ite

    Or the incidents, maybe? I guess spelling isn't required of editors anymore
  13. "My parents forced me to carry crampons even though I knew I wouldn't need them.... I mean seriously, I'm graduated!" Love the humor!
  14. I have Shuksans and they are solid. I don't think you can go wrong buying either pair.
  15. Awesome to see you try it! I've done only a few of those but sounds like a really cool project!! Looking forward to hearing about the "SCW 15", Hyperspace, Outerspace, and Orbit in a day!
  16. Thanks for the reminder that slide alder IS NOT REQUIRED FOR A GOOD TIME
  17. Or arachnids, even.
  18. Good. I'm tired of all these students with no job and lots of free time getting all the climbing done. Sheesh!
  19. That looks really fun!
  20. good to know, thanks for the info
  21. Gene and I tried it but never got on it proper, opting for the SE route instead. I posted a TR for Buck somewhere here.
  22. I didn't walk into Jade, but it's as "in" as Honeymans is. All relative I guess. Capricorn final pitches were definitely there. If anything its been plenty cold (perhaps too cold) and was overcast every day for most of the day, but there is absolutely no new water feeding the routes so the ice is getting old.
  23. The ice was very very hard, cold, and brittle last weekend up on the Duffy, stuff definitely felt harder because of it!
  24. Hi, just a few additional comments to Dru's, and please don't take them personally. As Dru/G-Spotter noted, you're on Rambles Center, which clocks in at pretty vanilla WI3. I and partner climbed both PS-Dihedral (Rambles Right) and all of Rambles Center last weekend and it was all in, and basically WI3. Rambles Center top pitch currently has a nice variation up a chimney and pulling through a roof. I and my partner climbed Isadorth on last Monday. It was nice and rambly, but never more than WI2+ though much longer in its current incarnation than 150m advertised in the guide. You can cross the Cayoosh easily anywhere directly below the route on abundant ice dams. We solo'ed the whole thing. Probably 300m of climbing, then walk off climbers left. Not too bad except the 10 min of slide alder bashing. Belmore is also in, but lower angle and would be hard to justify taking a rope. Cherry Ice and Honeyman *are* in, we climbed Honeyman last week as well (Saturday). Honeyman has a gusher on it's left side, but otherwise offered 3 full pitches of quite highly entertaining ice to WI3+ (the first pitch). westcoastice.com typically has all the latest conditions, but should anyone else be heading up in the next weekend, here are some additional tidbits: Phair Creek: hill was a sheet of glass, no way no how. We almost destroyed the Impreza trying to go just 400 feet up it, then sliding backwards downhill uncontrolled at like 20mph!! Bridge Creek: Jade in, Capricorn in, NightnGale in, everything else out. Shriek has a huge roof on it's last pitch where an outer curtain fell off, looks solid 6. Birkenhead: The Plum, Valentine in. Lots of ice up that valley right now, some very close to the road. Didn't have the new guide that day to put any names on anything but the obvious.
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