Alex

I have been into the lake and route in Nov, March and April of various years. I believe the route itself will be in climbable shape. However, I believe avalanche danger will be significant, based on the years snowpack history and the current conditions. The route itself is a loaded gun. There is no escape or shelter from slides once you get on the route; I believe the approach slope above the lake will be a good indication of what conditions are like in the first couloir. Dig a pit here, "try before you buy". It is steep enough to give you some indication near the mouth of Hidden. I would be extremely wary if you *didnt* see real fresh slide debris at the base of Hidden Couloir. If you decide to go for Hidden, conditions will change as you enter couloir 2/NF and couloir 3; these are higher up, "drain" less face-area, but might have completely different snow conditions. Alex

I use an Ushba down bag for the Summer, it weighs 1.4 pounds and is very compact. Combined with all the clothes you bring on a trip its right for anything in the Cascades from March to October. My girlfriend uses an Integral Designs synthetic bag that is also very light and compact; both purchased from Jim Nelson. In the Winter I use a North Face Superlight down bag, bought 1994. I've slept in it (rated 5'F) down to -20'F without too much difficulty. In Alaska I used a Dryloft -25'F down bag. It was slightly warmer than the Superlight, but the dryloft was the key. The temps never got below -30'C. If you only have the budget for one purchase, I would suggest a Marmot, Feathered Friends, or similar quality 20'F down bag. Dryloft is only useful if you don't use a tent much (I use a tent). Alex

Cool, ok, I'll stop doing that... Alex

yes. ".., though cord is another story." Sorry I did not make clear that I was only referring to spectra webbing. As I understand it: "Whats best for alpine runners, v-threads, all-around good juju accessory material?" Couple of considerations: 1) Strength. Yes, Spectra cord, Gemini, Maxim whatever is the best. 2) Ease of Use. Depending on exactly what, it can also be hard to cut, tie, and work with. 3) Cost. Unless you like paying 2-3$ a foot, other stuff can easily substitute for spectra cord. 4) Wear. Cord wears slower than webbing in general, less surface area to volume. 5) UV resistance. For slings left in the field, its best to use something more UV resistant. Spectra tends to break down pretty quick, but I am not sure how it is compared to other materials. With that in mind: Spectra cord for: things involving anchors, things where high strength is required, things you wont leave behind often or use alot of length for. Perlon cord for: things involving body weight only, things you leave behind like rap slings and v-threads spectra and nylon webbing for: things that require medium strength, do not suffer from continual wear, things you leave behind like rap slings and v-threads Sorry to be long-winded Alex

Spectra is too slippery to tie in knots safely, so you can't take slings and tie them, though cord is another story. 6mm perlon has a breaking strength of only 1000 pounds, so this is a poor choice for runners and should only be used as rap cord, v-thread material, or prussiks. for cordalettes I use 5.5 Gemini or technora or take your pick. Something strong. for runners I use a combination: spectra *sewn* slings and tubular nylon webbing tied slings, to leave behind. Spectra is lighter, stronger and better, nylon is cheaper. Best bet is to carry a good assortment of all of these things. Versatility is #1 in the alpine... Alex

##### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]

Forrest, I did agree with you what was best in general, but Colin already has the 9.4, which is why I suggested he get the 6mm. As to the double/twin stuff, I climb on double ropes, but often clip then to both pieces (twin technique) when the route does not wander much. I do not agree with you that the strands increase the impact force much, as you must realize that even the best belayer with not have the ropes exaclty "matched up" through their device, which will unevenly load the strands initially during the fall, especially in the alpine where you are not necessarlity climbing within sight of your belayer, or have a tight belay. Well, thats what I think anyway, but have no proof. I've taken plenty of lead falls (!!) on doubles as doubles and doubles as twins (Dan Smith can personally attest to several screamers at Index), and have not noticed any difference. You also point out that doubles can be used "singly" in lightweight applications and I agree, I routinely use a single strand of 8.5 for glacier travel and 4th class alpine routes. I think all the posts here so far, Lowells idea (sounds very influenced by ski patrol practices I am familiar with), dbb, Forrest, all these systems are proven in the alpine, and it really does come down to personal preference.

Colin, I'm thinking 180 degrees from Forrest, and suggest you get the 7mm. I've been working with two different systems lately, both have their uses. I got in the habit of climbing on two strands of 8.5 mm ice climbing (both as twin or as double), and I really like this system. I also use this same rope system sometimes for trad routes in the summer. The upside is reduced rope drag, the psychological comfort of having *something* still on you if you chop a line leading or following ice climbing, and the very smooth and handy 3-person party system where the leader leads the belays the followers up simultaneously with a GiGi. The downside is some serious rope management is need to make this work at hanging belays or small ledges. If you were starting clean slate, I'd say go for this rope system. The rope management aspect is serious, but you'll be able to cope if you are very careful. The other system I've been using is a 70m 9.4 single PMI lead line for alpine rock. This is similar to the thing you have going now. I either take just it (allowing 35m raps) or I take 45m of 6mm. Upside is rope management is much improved over dual strands, and *man* you can lead really really long pitches with 70m or rope! Downside is that there is no weight savings with this system over twin/double system. The psychological safety net for ice climbing is gone, too, so I am still reluctant to climb ice on single strands. Forrest raises a real and legitimate issue that if you plan to really beat on your ropes, a 6mm or 7mm zip line has no place in the mountains, and I would tend to agree with him, but I have never actually had to use this thin strand line in a retreat yet, so I have not had any bad experiences with it. I guess for routes where the decent is known to be rap'ing off, I would bring beefier lines. But, you already have the 9.4 line, so why buy more ropes? the 7mm zip line will be a cheap (and light) addition for your trip, compared to two new strands of 8-9mm that you will only use half the time. I would go 7mm, use it until its time to retire your lead line, then assess again and decide whether its time to replace with dual strands. [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 12-07-2000).]

I've been "around" on Yocum, though I don't want to say that I've actually climbed it. You need very very cold conditions to climb Yocum, a strong arctic high pressure system is what you want. I think the lower ridge is pretty straighforward past the third gendarme, with some traverses around the gendarmes. The upper cliff I guess is the crux, I have not been past here, but there is a "bail out" couloir that leads back down into Leutholds. However this "bail out" is pretty damn steep and scary(!). Yocum is pretty non-committing if you want to just get out there, cross the Reid, and poke around to see what conditions are like. If they suck, go up Leutholds. If they are good, you doo have a chance to bail at the half-way point. Oregon High by Jeff Thomas has some very good route info on Yocum Ridge. Alex

A scene from Pulp Fiction comes to mind now, Bruce Willis and co. tied up...(substitute snowleopard)...an offscreen voice (substitute mikeadam) saying "go get the Gimp!"....

Classic routes: In my mind, a classic route in the Cascades has several characteristics: 1) The experience on the route was trancendental. My number one criterion for a classic route is, did I have so much damn fun, I couldnt contain myself? Did I look at the sunrise and realize that *this* is why I am in the mountains? Did I flow through the moves and think, I wish this route could go on forever? 2) It is superlative in many ways to other routes of similar technical difficulty in the range. A classic route is one that is superlative, and one of the easiest ways to make the distinction is to choose from a set of routes with similar attributes. It is more difficult to compare when routes have dissimilar attributes; how to compare the Emmons Glacier with North Ridge of Stuart? Still, after climbing a number of routes with similar attributes, when you know that by popular consesensus or some other measurement (Beckey says so) this set represents a rounded selection of routes in the range, you find that one stands out in memory as a better experience than the rest, you may have a classic on your hands. 3) It is superlative in aesthtics in line and character a classic route has purity of line and character. On rock routes this may mean following a significant feature, like the N Ridge of Stuart, or NW Butress on Sless. On a Volcano it might mean surmounting the Kautz ice cliff, or climbing Lib Ridge. This is why I have always thought Lib Ridge more "classic" than Ptarmigan - Ptarmigan is a bit contrived, going hither and yon all over the place. Lib Ridge is a straight shot. 4) It is varied and challenging, mentally stimulating. I think the reason so many hard climbs get on a classic list (read "Favorite Routes" thread) is because varied terrain and mental difficultly make the experience and reward deeper. 5) It is not a certain success, it requires some work, skill and perhaps chance to complete Climbing is about challenge, and classic routes are usually challenging routes. Whether your success is weather dependent like Rainier, or technical-ability dependent like NW Butress of Slesse, I believe the uncertainty in climbing a classic route can be very satisfying. Accordingly, its no surprise that some of the following routes are classics in the Cascades: * N Ridge of Stuart. Despite its "trade route" reputation, a bivy high on the N Ridge and the entire experience are really magical. * Challenger. A casual glacier route, but an unforgettable setting and remote enough to be far from the maddening crowd. * Liberty Ridge. A pure line up a big mountain, with lots of big mountain expereince waiting for you! Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 12-05-2000).]

Mr GoodTime, Edge and others... Put your money where your mouth is. I don't see *you* listing your fav's, yet you criticize others for the ones they list?? Gimme a break. Testosterone or no, climbing for the wrong reasons or no, if you don't agree with the thread, start a new one, but don't bust on people's choices just because you find them "wrong" for some reason. At least contribute something positive to the discussion...here's mine: trad rock: Great Northern Slab at Index, the finest most enjoyable moderate around. sport rock: Online, Static Point aid: some freaky stuff I've done at index best left unmentioned alpine rock: Probably a toss-up between N Ridge of Stuart and Serpentine Arete alpine mixed: mmm, Triple Couloirs, although SW Couloir of Early Winters is aesthetically very pleasing, just too damn short snow slog: Lib Ridge Classics, and what makes them classic, seems to be a seperate discussion (and an interesting one), so maybe we should start a thread on that... Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 12-04-2000).]

####This message has been encrypted.#### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-29-2001).]

I have both a Pieps 457 and an older Ortovox dual frequency beacon. I like the Pieps better, mostly for aesthetic reasons, but both are serviceable. The Ortovox is from the days of yore where you had to plug in an earpiece, and there is no visual cue (unlike newer Ortovox beacons). The best avalanche beacon is the one you use regularly - even my decrepit Ortovox is better than nothing in the backcountry, and since I have two I never have to put up with the lame excuse "uhh, I don't own one" when heading into the backcountry. I paid 100$ each for my beacons; from various places around the country you can buy them for as little as 150$ new. An avalanche beacon is the second most important piece of gear you can own after a helmet for winter climbing and skiing. People who don't have them and venture out there anyway are, frankly, amateurs looking to get tagged. Alex

...is in! Here is the updated URL to the BC Ice conditions Page (more pictures, full updates): http://www.bivouac.com/casbc/ice0001.htm These photos taken Nov 18, 19 2000, courtesy Lyle Knight. See you up there! Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 11-29-2000).]

looks like the local forecast is starting... http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/SABSEA "A 2 week period of dry cool weather prior to last weekend caused considerable faceting and weakening of previous snow. In addition significant accumulations of very weak surface hoar up to .5 to 1.5 inches had developed on most shaded and wind sheltered slopes. In many areas the overall shallow snow cover, terrain and vegetation anchoring should still be limiting the avalanche potential on many slopes. But the underlying layers may only marginally support potential new slab layers and new snow. This should be most likely a bit east of the crest and near the Cascade passes where less warming and rain may have been seen during the weekend storm cycle. Generally avalanches should be most likely on perennial snow and on slopes with a smooth underlying ground surface."

Pins: All pins racked by type on different biners: RURPS, beaks. All on one biner. Kinfeblades. All facing the same direction/orientation, smallest to largest on one biner. Lost arrows. Put onto biner alternating sides, i.e. facing left, facing right, facing left etc. You can get about 4 on a biner this way. angles. I only use bably angles, but you can rack them like lost arrows, alternating. I get about 3 per biner, but I rarely if ever carry more than 3 on a route, unless the topo tells me to. Bugaboos. Some people racke them with the knifeblades, I do too if only carrying a few pins total. For real nail ups, I rack them seperately, but the same way. Hooks. Get caught on everything! I put them on a seperate biner, and put them someplace where they wont hookl everything. Alex

Check out the conditions on Colchuck Peak under the "Alpine Lakes" section of this web site. It has not snowed since we were there two weeks ago, so conditions will likely be similar.

Looks like Rock and Ice have finally re-opened the bulletin board for 2000-2001 ice conditions: http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=ice

###### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 01-15-2001).]

Heinrich, lets go find out Saturday! Alex, recompense@hotmail.com

Probably some type of Cro - Moly Steel (and you say, duh!) Dan, you may just want to call SMC (makers of the ubiquitous SMC 12-point strap on dildo...err crampon and other various general moutaineering implements) or MSR, both are local companies that make climbing equipment using steel. I tried looking up SMC's website, but I couldnt remember if they were Seattle Manufacturing Co, Seattle Machine Co, or something else, and it seems "SMC" is a pretty common acronym... Cheers, Alex

##### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 01-15-2001).]

"Continental snowpack" is the term I should have used, thanks!

The clear and cold conditions, with sunshine and light fluffy snow on the ground, are certainly much more like the drier ranges (Rockies) than the maritime conditions we usually experience (warm, wet). I was surprised by the lightness of the snow last weekend even at low elevations, it is very unlike the PNW, a very temperate snowpack thus far. This is significant, as the light (in water content, weight) snow on the ground now (about a foot at 3500 ft, more higher) will be a weak layer if it gets loaded by heavier snow in the short term. Not only that, but the clear conditions and sunshine also lead to surface hoar on that layer, making for better layer lubrication if and when new snow is deposited. The continued cold temps in the mountains dont help stabilize the pack, there is not going to be as rapid aging and transformation of the crystals as with warm weather. In order to stave off the hazard, we need some prolonged warming, and rain, with as little new load on the pack as possible, or, if there is new load, then a hell of alot of it to compress and stabilize that first layer. I think you'll see lots of slide activity in the alpine either way the next time it snows!! Alex Addendum: areas where hazard will be worst, will vary. * On N facing slopes that are not exposed to sun, you'll have little consolidation, to this will be more hazardous, but thats pretty typical in almost any snowpack. * I think this snow will be more susceptible to wind transfer than usual, so leeward slopes will get heavily loaded, and slab packs could form more so than they typically do in the Cascades, where the snowpack settles very quickly due to water content, weight and temps. I think anywhere where the snowpack can be loaded by wind transfer are places to avoid during the next cycle. * Below treeline, this is reversed. Wind transfer, hoar formation less likely to occur, so I'd say the alpine zone is going to be more prone than usual to large releases, depending on the next cycle. But consider: with a cold, weak ground layer, if we get significant precip in the alpine during the next cycle, you could see very large slab releases that go down to the ground! Ugly! Run for cover! [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 11-14-2000).]