Alex

trask, I'm with you, the next two years make me nervous. Last thing I want is a blank check to any one of the three branches of gov't, let alone ALL three!

JayB, there are 3 named routes at Quincy Wildlife Refuge (in the WI3-5 range), with lots more potential around Ancient Lake. Alex

quote: Originally posted by Ohsowrongyouare: Remember if you think you are climbing hard there is always someone that will walk up and solo what just made you cry. And his name is Dean Potter.

quote: Originally posted by Paco: "There are 6 to 8 pitches with snow and ice climbing ranging from 50 degrees to vertical." yeah however beckey states that the vertical is at the bergschrund..!

they have some moored bouys pretty far out at sea that measure swell height and period

Lambone, thats actually an easy one. Most Banks Lake climbs are spring fed, so you are right about the very recent conditions not being critical. Cold temps are a must, though, since the climbs face West, not North, and see sun in the afternoon. Most columbia basin climbs are still surface water flows though, so things like Champagne need desert snow to form. Contrast the spring fed nature of Banks to strobach, (which I have also tried in early season) where most climbs are meltwater fed. A dry year like this means not much happens up there, even though its at 4500 ft, N facing, and in the shade all day. Without snow that stuff is just anemic. In the cascades now, its so dry that anything other than a perennial stream wont form. Limits one to things like Alpental and Drury in dry years. Has to get colder for those perennial streams to form too, since the volume is usually too much to freeze in just 2 weeks... Alex [ 11-04-2002, 07:29 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

yeah the forecast was for warming temps and precip through the end of the week. I am hoping the stuff thats already formed will survive and we'll have an early year like 2000

Saturday was a great day to be in the mountains!

yup. I soloed Devils Pbowl sunday. There is a bit coming in at Banks. Notably, The Cable is almost completely formed, and Zenith coming along nicely.... here are some pix, Sunday Nov 3: Devils Punchbowl Punchbowl, mid pitch Zenith The Cable [ 11-03-2002, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

two things: the mixed stuff: is Dale I believe, and he hasnt been able to get us the info, so far. If there is someone else we could talk to that would be great, but we also want to respect it if people dont want to share the info.. salt and pepper: it IS mixed, but dont expect much for pro. Its 4th class moves on garbage up the left side. #3 camalot protects the moves after the crux, but at the crux you have pins and mud...great route though! Alex [ 11-01-2002, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Is that the only place you troll for men, Alex? Something tells me the Eastsiders Pub Club is different than the Westsiders!!

as an aside, Jason and I believe that our book is really just the tip of the iceberg, can't wait for you guys to be armed with it... Alex

I think the name "bolt clipper" might have been a giveaway... Alex

quote: Originally posted by allison: There ARE guys out there who meet all of the criteria! Yes, but name the last time you met one of them at Pub Club!

climbholio, Darrington isnt really any better for water ice than the rest of Western Washington. So you'll have to do a bit of a drive to get anything reliable. That said, it isnt a bad place to be either, especially in the summer and fall: lots of long granite rock routes nearby, lots of cool mountains to do. Alex

lots of good points here. climbing is about taking responsibility for yourself, and in posting Anna has, in a way. Anna, I'm glad you came away from it ok. climbing is about finding limits, knowing limits, and transcending them sometimes. I think anna has learned some valuable lessons, and there is little we can offer her that she can't or hasnt figured out already. If you choose to climb again, Anna, you'll do so with a much better understanding of consequences than many of us here. Good luck, Alex

I dont know of anything that has formed, but I plan to use my weekend to check stuff out. maybe even get early season scared..! Probably be heading Pauls way one of the days. One things for sure, you dont need a snowmobile yet to get to the good spots Alex

I want photographic evidence!

Ade and I went up for an unsuccessful go this past weekend. PM/e-mail us for beta if you like.

well shit phil, if you're driving Mowich Lake 3 times on the trip, I can see how you might have problems! Alex

I think it's Tiger mountain? In the lower left corner of Tiger here is a fairly substantial ice wall. Has anyone tried climbing it? Rock fall might be an issue. Its much lower angle and shorter than NF Observation Rock, which is fairly low angle and short to begin with. By the time you do the approach and the climb, and realize how large the ratio of approach/climb is, you look at all that stuff a little further up and think "why bother?" Alex

quote: Originally posted by Bill Gates: This is Bill Gates. I say unto you, try Mt. Baring in the winter! Bill Gates has spoken. I am sorely tempted to create an avatar named Larry Ellison or Scott McNealy right about now...

shit that fingate is almost as big as his head!

good to hear your OK, Stefan! I suggest you read all 1029 posts of the Congressional Debate here on CC.com, MUCH better than Jerry Springer! Cheers, here's to your recovery! Maybe someone from rope-up land can go get your gear this weekend ...? Alex

http://www.genesimmons.com/ holy HOT batman! vs http://www.richardsimmons.com/ Dude, I'd rather be gene simmons any day of the week, look at those babes