DPS

Looking to climb on Sunday - 11/16/2008. Easy aid climbing at Index or ??? Please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com if interested.

I did the North Face a couple of years ago around this time of year. We made an easy descent 100 yards skiers right of the Pearly Gates. Pearly Gates were steep and icy.

A couple of weeks ago while on Colfax I got a look at Lincoln. I saw no obvious, continuous lines on Lincoln. Made me way impressed by Klenke et al. ascent earlier this year.

Thanks for the conditions update!

Braydon, As I recall it took us about 6 hours to make the approach from the gate to the first ice pitch. Bear in mind I am old and fat. Someone young and fit could do it faster I am sure. Dan

If I recall from botany, the color diffrences have to do with how much water the trees receive during the time when the leaves are getting ready to fall off.

I am sorry I misunderstood your post.

You had me up until 'fit and strong please'.

Martin Volken at Pro Ski in North Bend perhaps.

Agreed. Even just in my neighborhood they have been wonderfull!

I find insulated leather/synthetic leather style boots to work well for Rainier and winter climbing on lower peaks. Many manufacturers make good ones, the trick is to find the pair that fits best. Some good manufactures include La Sportiva, Scarpa, Boreal, and Kayland. Any climbing boot will accept BD Contact Strap (or similar) crampons.

There is an alternate to the Pearly Gates to climbers left.

1. Will the mountain be crowded or will I be completely alone and kicking out the snow in Dec? The standard route climbs through a ski resort. If you have good weather and conditions, I doubt you will be alone. 2. Do I need to be roped on a South Route attempt? I've gotten mixed reviews from different climbers and while I'm not planning on it, let me know if this is a bad plan. I have never been roped while climbing or descending the South Side. 3. Aside from the normal preparations for a winter/alpine ascent, is there anything unusual or important to know about Hood or the Cascades in December? My understanding is that rockfall is less likely but storms have a greater chance of mucking things up. Watch the weather, it will come from the South so you should see it coming. If the weather is starting to get bad, go home. Do not climb into a storm. Taking compass bearings or using a GPS to get yourself back down in a white out is a good idea.

Shelby used a bike helmet for many years.

I used a Wild Things Belay Parka and it was fine with a mid weight zip tee and a powerstretch zip tee underneath. This was end of May - beginning of June. I also brought a primaloft sweather to wear under the Belay Parka if I got cold, but never had to wear the two together.

What would you grade the cruxes?

Post em up!

I bet it was millipedes.

Good God no! I think lately TC comes into shape late winter/early spring. I did it in Feb one year and the crux ice runnels were completely dry, so we did the North Face bypass (we felt it was much harder than TC BTW). Another year in April we did TC when the ice runnels were phat. I got a good look at the NE Couloir on Dragontail on Sundy and there was a continous ribbion of ice from top to bottom. I think with a few storms and freeze/melt cycle it will be in fun shape, perhaps in 4-5 weeks?

I got a good look at Dragontail, and there is a surprising amount of ice in the runnels for this time of year. Enough to climb? Not yet, or at least not by my standards. I think NE Couloir should be in really fun shape in a month or so.

Totally agree.

These days Triple Couloirs often does not come in until late season, March - April. NE Buttress of Chair can be done earlier in the season, I did it in November as a very good mixed climb one year.

Nothing wrong with going into the trades. When you need a plummer nothing else much is gonna help. Wish I had been a plumber.

Nice pictures! I did not take any myself.

For those of you who missed the trail run, which is everyone except Tokogirl and myself, you missed out on a spectacular trip. The larches are fabulous right now and the weather was pretty ideal.