DPS

I think you missed out on an opportunity for a crazy 3 way. bun-chick-awow-wow.

My wife is a bridge engineer (she built the new red bridge over the NF Snoqualmie on the way to Little/Mt Si). She said suspension bridges are a whole different ball of wax. Good luck.

$245.00. I'm waiting to hear Dane weigh in on this one, it could be the holy grail of crampons if it works as well as it is advertised.

Someone here on cc.com shortend the shaft of an X-15 and hacked off the pick to make a nifty alpine rock hammer with a built in nut tool/pick. If gear mods are your bag this hammer might be a good candidate.

That is a Chouninard X tool - actually the first pair of ice tools I owned. I thought I was cool because Alan Kearney had an identical pair. As a working ice tool it maybe worth $40? As a collector's item maybe $100 to an avid collector who is missing that exact tool from his/her collection. I know Second Ascent collects classic Chouinard tools, but those are the laminated bamboo or hickory shafted ones. Maybe shoot them an email and see if they would be interested in paying collector's prices for it.

I completely agree with MattP. After having done the North Face, Liberty Crack, and Thin Red Line, I found the Beckey Route to be and engaging climb on terrific rock and certainly not easy (at least for me). Recently my wife asked if I had any 'fantasies'. I told her I wanted to spend the night on Liberty Bell. She thought I was weird.

Maybe its because I have lived here for 40 years but I have never had problems staying busy in the winter. I found that keeping an open mind and following the good weather is a good strategy. Ice climbing trips to Canada, rock climbing trips to Smith, skiing (BC when avi conditions allow, lift serviced when not), and of course winter alpine climbing. The big winter alpine trips I have done in the Cascades are among my most memorable trips.

No and no.

I had a BD Blizzard harness that had the gear loops on the bottom of the swami belt, rather than on the top like most harnesses. This seemed to improve the comfort with a pack's hip belt somewhat. For a long time I used a cheap REI webbing harness with no padding and no gear loops relying upon the gear loops on my pack's hip belt which also worked okay but was not the most comfortable harness when hanging.

Correct me if I am mistaken, but haven't all the ascents on Burkett Needle been done by PNW climbers? If so, way to carry the torch!

I have a thin Evazotte pad I picked up at Pro Mountain Sports. It offers the same insulative value (or so it feels) as a Ridge Rest. Mine is full size and I thought about chopping it down, but I decided I like the full length as it keeps me bag dry from wet/snowy ground.

I broke and sprained my ankle a few years ago. The sprain was class three and was one of the worst the orthopedic podatrist had seen. The break healed in 6 weeks, the sprain took a full year of focused therapy to restabilize and return to full activity. I did a lot of swimming and biking that year.

What is the lighter for?

Take a look at Pro Ski and Guiding. They may be able to do a custom itinerary. Ask for Chris Simmons, a great guy, patient teacher, fully IFMGA certified, AIRE 3 instructor. http://climbskirun.blogspot.com/p/guiding_17.html

I thought it was the guide outfits that maintained the fixed bridges/ropes/pickets.

November 2011 through Amazon.com. Amazon is taking 'pre-orders' for the low, low price of $37.00. I already ordered mine.

Not to sound rude, but where are you getting your information? I have made quite a few committing descents making 30 meter, and even 25 meter rappels. 30 meters is perfectly adequate for glaciers in the lower 48.

Impact is how much energy is tranferred to the anchors when tested in a drop tower. Tensile strength is how much force it takes to break it when pulled apart. The fact the the 7mm cord does not have an impact force listed suggests to me that it is not intended for holding falls.

I have a healthy respect for glaciers, with very good reason. Everyone on the rope team should carry at least the following: 1 picket 1 pulley - the weight is negligble 1 pair of prusik slings or Tibloc a couple of sewn runners a couple of locking carabiners 3-4 non locking carabiners and last but not least, the knowledge and practice to use the gear safely. Also the comment "you will have no problem building a bomber anchor" troubles me. Depending on the snow conditions, it may be difficult to set a reliable anchor.

What about a 30m, 8mm 'rando' rope and a 30m, 5 mm tech cord (http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/ropes/tech-cord-5mm-60m.html) tag line? You get a dynamic climbing rope for when you need to rope up for glaciers or short technical sections while enjoying the weight savings of a lightweight tag line and the ability to do 30 meter raps.

My guess is somewhere in the SE US.

Magnificant photography.

I think being benighted only to see the tent the next mornng is a Cascades ritual on this peak.

Years ago Alex and I made a casual day trip up Colchuck Peak. We self registered and got the day pass. Well, I was breaking in a new pair of boots and my feet were so blistered I opted to hike out from the lake barefoot. Moving slowly Alex decided to meet me at the car. He had the permit. I ran into a friendly ranger who asked a number of normal questions (what did you climb, how were conditions, etc.). Then is asked if I had a permit. I said my partner who is ahead of me has it. The ranger offered to keep me company on my hike out and we had a pleasant conversation. At the TR he indeed checked to see if I had a partner who had the permit.

When you have personally rescued as many climbers and DOGS in the mountains as I have then you can call me a dick on the internets. Until then come and say it to my face. I'll PM you my address. Pussy.