DPS

I think a 30m x 8mm would be perfect. The last time I climbed hood the easiest route to the summit was climber's left of the old chute. If conditions are similar to what I last saw, there really were no steep sections on the left hand side, but the old chute was maybe 50 meters of steep ice, something I would have wanted a second tool for.

Hi jamebill, I can't answer your question specifically, but I would say get the largest scale map of the south side you can find be it Green Trails, USGS, custom map, etc. The route finding is pretty straight forward if the visibility is fine.

Good point about the map. Some type of way-back device would be prudent e.g. wands, GPS, map with waypoints and compass bearings should you encounter poor visibility.

Way to ruin the game Kurt.

Pro Ski in North Bend.

Approach for Outer Space will be significantly more difficult in the future as the space shuttle program is ending. Climbing conditions in Outer Space: perfect for sending. Cold temps keep the sweat down and lack of gravity makes hard problems easy.

Wow! That was really nicely done. Great photography, great words, great music, charming couple. One critism: the naked climber dude to naked climber girl ratio could be improved.

Wasn't Jeff involved in designing clothing and gear through Latok?

Makes perfect sense, I prefer chocolate cake and pizza all the time.

My question for Bill is if he objects to government supported rescues for climbers because climbers should be self reliant and held to a higher standard or against government interference in the natural selection process in general.

ice axe, crampons, helmet. Maybe a rope, harness, and a few pickets if you want to be safe and know how to use it.

Across the board? No more Coast Guard rescues of boaters or commerical fisherman? No Medic One calls for heart attacks or car accidents?

Well said Gene.

You can always a bring a tent with you in the car and ask the rangers if they expect the shelter to be full.

Rad, I am the last person who would criticise anyone's decision to ask for a rescue having been on both sides of the fence. I have been rescued and lost a load of gear and never expected it back (and did not get it back). I have also rescued climbers and lost gear in the process and never asked to be reimbursed (and was not). I stand by my suggestion and would have done exactly that: send the gear back with a note explaining the expenses incurred and let the gear's owner decide what is right. Dan

Clearly the classy thing to do is to ship the climbers their gear back with a simple accounting of the expenses incurred. Something like this: Cost of ferrying gear down the mountain: Blood, sweat, and tears Cost of air taxi to transport gear: $500 Gas for 300 mile car trip to pick up the gear: $100 Getting a free ride off the mountain AND your gear back: Priceless

Try Walmart.

FYI: Clint Helander has a nice piece in the current issue of Alpinist on page 30.

I really like my Scarpa Summits for mountaineering, winter alpine and ice climbing. They are on closeout for $210 with the AVMARCH1 promo code:http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,2015R_Scarpa-Summit-Gore-Tex-Mountaineering-Boots-Waterproof-For-Men.html If they don't have your size, look at the women's.

I tried with varying results to flake the tag line into a stuff sack clipped to my harness. While it helps to eliminate the line from getting caught up, it tended to knot up in the stuff sack anyway. Maybe the 5.5 mm techy cord would work better since it is stiffer?

I only remember one technical pitch up a wide, verglassed crack with big ass, stainless steel fixed pitons. At any rate, we had a fairly light rock rack because we were there to do the Black Ice and NW Ice Couloirs rather than hard rock routes.

Summer. I think in winter it would be better.

Hi, I have been looking at both the WM Summerlite and the FF Merlin. I have a WM Apache Super Dryloft and a FF Widgeon both of which have kept me warm at temperatures far below their ratings. In terms of quality, durability, cut, etc, I find the two brands to be very similar. As far as your second question, I would say it depends upon your objective. Doing Rainier right now with a 30 degree bag might leave you a bit chilly but would be fine at lower elevations. For later spring/summer/early fall a 30 degree bag would be ideal.

Thanks!

Has there been any research done on the relative strength of the different picket designs?