DPS

I agree, also with Kurt Hicks, alough the approach to NR Baker may be broken up. One approach is to camp below the Black Buttes (pretty short approach to this point) and scout the traverse to the North Ridge and add wands as needed. Get an early start and folllow your previously established route (GPS works too). IF the approach is too broken up you can do the Coleman Demming route. My personal recommendation would be Fisher Chimneys on Mt Shuksan. Should be in good shape, although icy, bring a few screws and a sceond tool, just in case, as well as a small rock rack and a v-thread kit. Nice mix of moderate/easy rock and ice climbing on the most photogenic face of this truly classic Cascade peak. Nobody here is exagerating the late season hazards. Rainier is a different beast than anything else in the Cascades. You are getting good advice. The only route I would consider doing that time of year on Adams or Hood is SS Adams which would be a scree hike. If you haven't been to the North Cascades, you should treat yourself and go. Several good suggestions in additions to mine already posted.

I use a combination of harness and pack such that one or the other has a simple webbing waist loop and no gear loops. Lately this is a Montbel Balance Light 40 (closer in volume to my 45 liter BD Ice and Shadow packs) and a Petzl Adjama harness.

Nice work. Regarding the topo; the Windham route was done by Leland Windham rather than 'Windom'. Leland told me he was calling the route 'Nothing', not sure if he changed the name, but he was calling it 'Nothing' for several years. I was also told the free version (a short crux) was 13- by various parties including Dave Moroloes.

I have a set of Aliens, blue, green, yellow, and red, purchased pre 2001. If I ever climb again, do I need to worry about them failinng or was this an issue particular to the newer Aliens?

Quality. Piss poor advice. Snarky.

I climbed WR Forbidden with Curt. He seemed very wise then and that was like 17 years ago.

I've climbed both, haven't skiied either but I think Emmons would be a much esier ski, if the crevasses don't eat you.

No, I ignore 90% of your sanctimonious bullshit. I was just subtlety trying to chest beat.

Skis are much faster, both up and down than booting it. I went from Paradise to Muir in 90 minues on skis. My fastest outing on boots was 2 hours. Just saying.

Kurt, You are welcome. I think it is important you mentioned the legalese. Guides have to have liability insurance, land use and/or concessionaires permits. Although I believe the system is changing, this now usually means going through one of the guide outfits. Of these outfits some are more amenable to custom itineraries and 1:1 guiding than others.

All good suggestions. Hopefully you can align your goals and itinerary with one of the aforementioned guides. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.

I agree that it is no harder than 5.9, but less secure than Ski Tracks with its sloping hortizontal crack and big exposure.

I think the training program is a great idea. Wouldn't recommend Adams either after Rainier, unless it is on the same trip. Lots more options for rock training closer to you. Senecca Rocks, Red River Gorge, North Carolina. I'm sure you can find guides that opporate in all of those areas.

You want either Chris Simmons; http://climbskirun.blogspot.com/. Fully certified IFMGA guide, has guided on every continent except Africa. Great guy, great guide, huge experience. Also Kurt Hicks: http://kurthicks.com/about/. AMGA certified in several disciplines. Both are based in Seattle and climbing partners of mine and great people and great guides. I can unequivocally recommend either one. Neither will be cheap.

Sig, I would suggest learning new skills. Maybe a glacier course on Mt Baker or a trad climbing course somewhere in the South East.

I've always said "coowahr", based on one year of college French.

It is a relative term. Reading Blakes TR for Valkyrie is cool and I view him as a 'young' guy. I meant old relative to guys Blake's age. I recall running repeats on Mt Si. There was a H.S. basketball team walking up. One of the players asked "Sir, do you mind telling me how old you are?" "40" I replied. He shook his head as he couldn't imagine how someone my age could run up Mt Si.

Maybe Gary was blindfolded when he climbed it

Nice job Loren. Way to hoist the flag for us old guys.

I sent my daughter an email worthy of Alec Baldwin for Father's Day.

I think that is a fairly accurate generalization, however, this is an unually cold, wet spring/summer so far.

That was my thought as well. When I did Lib Ridge the Willis Wall never stopped avalanching.

That is not something you see every day. Hard of fathom.

The South (West?) Buttess has some route latitude so it is hard to get lost, although there are some variations that are clearly better than others. FWIW, we rapped the route with a 40 meter rope, what was left after cutting my 60 when it got stuck.

Either Easton or Coleman-Demming routes. Coming from Oregon Easton would be a shorter drive. Either one has significant glacier travel with large crevasses.