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ACK

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About ACK

  • Rank
    n00b
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Occupation
    Teacher
  • Location
    Seattle-Tacoma area
  1. Used about 10 times in the 2011-2012 season, Muir (2x), Schurman (4x), and Snoqualmie, Good condition with brake and Ski Crampons $340
  2. Titanium ice screws

    What's the history and condition with the screws? Thanks.
  3. 2011/2012 model, Size large for boot shell sizes 330 - 365; used less than 10 times (up & down from Muir 1x, Schurman 5x, Aplental 2x) no bumps, drops, or other agressive skiing, just smooth skiing on the snow we had in June-uary. I have these on a pair of BD Drifts, 100 waist. I changed boots and now have a smaller shell size. Sizes: SM 260 - 315 mm ML 285 - 340 mm XL 330 - 365 mm $300 or trade for a size medium. send PM, or email tonykahler@mail.com
  4. Petzl Grigri

    I took a look at the original and 2nd version of the grigi. It looks like the newer one design for smaller diameter ropes has a larger caming mechanism with wider radius and smaller grove for smaller ropes. I'm guest guessing here, so it's only speculation, but the design could be to allow for a more dynamic belay for smaller ropes (more bungee effect) to put less force on the rope during a lead fall. I tip the scales about 210 and my 100 lb daughter has belayed me with both grigris, the older one for a 11 mil static top rope line, and the smaller one for my lead rope. Both devices work well for a high weight differential and for newer or younger climbers who might otherwise panic and let go or get their fingers in a regular belay device. Of course, after the first belay I started strapping her into something that keeps her on the ground .... going up!
  5. Petzl Grigri

    The Grigri 2 works with a smaller diameter rope. http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belay-devices-0/grigri Don't buy any old stuff as there was a recall when the items first came out in 2011. Also, http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Belay-Device-Reviews/Petzl-GriGri-2 If you have the original GriGri, do you need to upgrade to the GriGri 2? If you do a lot of leading on 8.9-9.9mm ropes or just want the latest and greatest gear, get the GriGri 2. If you climb on 10mm or thicker ropes, you can probably hold off on the upgrade until your GriGri wears out. If you mainly toprope in the gym, the original GriGri is just fine. Both devices handle about the same but the GriGri 2 is lighter, less bulky, and better for thin ropes.
  6. Mt Rainer dc route

    sent PM
  7. [TR] Mt Rainier - DC 7/20 to 7/21/12

    Thanks for the pics. Nice night shot. Looks like a good time. Did you seen any skiers on the DC?
  8. Arrest Practice - Recommendation

    I would say, if you are by yourself go up to Rainier/Paradise past Pan Point. If you get injured you'll be around other people for help. Anyone been up to the Source Lake, Tooth, Chair Peak area lately? If there is enough snow, you might be able to find a slope with an okay run out up the valley from the Alpental parking lot. Pretty iffy after all the rain lately.( remember that area requires a parking pass)
  9. Is that a cam up my ass?!!??

    Oh you guys are brutal. Hey, "A_Little_Off_Route" and other newer trad climber, here are some things learned from my experiences.(I started climbing in 1990 and guided and instructed in AZ and CA in the mid '90's.) 1. Whichever system you get dialed into, stay with it so that you have a system and a habit. Why? If you’re in a finger crack and pumped, whatis the most natural gear grab location off your harness loops, more in front, the side, the rear? Sometimes there is no time or no state of mind to think about the small cams are on your rack. If you have a fist/foot crack you have more purchase on the rock and most likely would be less desperate to get a larger cam off your gear loops (harness(or chest for a longer route with a 70m rope)). 2. The other thing to think about is the type of climbing… more than vertical, vertical, less than vertical, slab, small edges, bigger ledges. Why? If you have a bunch longer slings, quick draws, cams, nuts (make that the passive cam device kind), it’s possible to get stuff caught in a crack, under a chicken head, under a foot, knee, etc, and literally trap yourself from making the next move. So, you might want to have the longer stuff in the rear gear loops. 3. Also consider how much gear you have around your front belay carabiner, belay device, etc., the less crap the better. Why? People have unclipped themselves from their anchor, as well as clipped a rappel device into something other than a harness. (I’ve seen both cases while climbing in popular areas in AZ.) So, again longer more complicated pieces in the rear to keep the front clear. I’m sure you get the picture by now.
  10. Rainier DC/Emmons (27th-28th)

    Thanks. I sent a PM. Yes, the Emmons-WR makes for a long hike out.
  11. Rainier DC/Emmons (27th-28th)

    DC/Emmons, as in south side Paradise /north side White River; up the DC and down the Emmons? Or up DC, traverse to Emmons and back down DC? Thanks.
  12. Thanks for the note. For sure the Emmons has a lot of walking to GB and then if the snow is sloppy mush maybe some steps instead of skinning up. But... maybe the Kautz as there is a lot more time skinning. As far as the pace goes, well that's why I like the 3-day agenda.
  13. Anyone up for a ski trip via the Emmons or Kautz, this weekend (Fri/Sa/Su)?
  14. Lost Camera!

    Did you try the White River Ranger Station yet?
  15. Gear choice for Rainier

    Check for PM.
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