DPS

Plan to go later in the season - Late February through March. Early in the season the prevailing winds from the south scour that side of the mountain leaving thin, weak snow bridges. Sastrugi snow forms, effectively concealing crevasses. There is typically a high pressure system around President's Day weekend that is fairly reliable. Gibralter Ledges route is one of the better choices for winter routes. Dress warm. Bring extra fuel. Know how to safely descend to Paradise in a white out - the climbing rangers can give you a little map with compass bearings and way points. Those GPS thingys work pretty well too. Wands are a good idea above Camp Muir.

Marmot sells Intuition liners. I think Feathered Friends and Pro Mountain Sports do as well.

I think it is not allowed, but the ranger suggested that if one doesn't get caught that its all good. There are a couple of bivi sites that are free: under the bridge that crosses the Icicle River (don't laugh, its pretty nice) and a mile or so up 8 mile road (the way to Colchuck Lake TH) there is a large pull out on the left that folks camp at.

Yes. Got 'busted' once doing this. A ranger told me to camp in the woods so I would not get caught biving on the road. He then flashed me the peace sign.

Re-traced figure eight. Kind of like a water knot, but using a figure eight. Had a partner that liked to tie the rappel ropes together that way.

The first tent I owned, a single wall, precursor to the EV2 fell apart in the first storm it encountered. The second tent has plastic pole tips which break easily. I tried to get replacement metal or extra plastic tips but my emails go unanswered.

I did Rainier in 8 hours - spread over two days.

Every MH product I have owned had serious design/manufacturing defects. Customer service has been unresponsive as well.

Hi Jason, Thanks for the link. I have a few edits I would suggest on this one: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2008/07/problem-with-water.html. Dan

My partner was designated photographer. Maybe he will post some pics.

Thanks Loren, Good to see you again too. Dan

It should be noted that in the paper work filed with the ranger station that I was the designated "Party Leader". This executive experience now qualifies me to be Vice President of the USA.

Trip: Mt Rainier - DC Date: 9/12/2008 Trip Report: jesselillis and I climbed Mt Rainier via the DC Sept 12-13. We met and chatted with nice people, saw some wildlife, and generally had a nice time. The weather was incredibly good, and except for the cleaver which was a big old pile of scree, the route was in excellent shape. Gear Notes: The usual glacier stuff. Approach Notes: Crevasses opening on Muir snow field and is icy below Camp Muir.

I would recommend looking at top quality used tents (Bibler, Integral Designs, Mountain Hardware, Hilleberg, Sierra Designs). Ebay and Second Ascent are good places to look.

As a middle aged guy, I generally dislike seeing 'young' people on TV. The networks should bring back 'Golden Girls' and 'Matlock'.

Is this the Ryan that graduaded from UPS?

Teach both. You know, don't be afraid of information. Healthy debate is so important and it's so valuable in our schools. I am a proponent of teaching both. And you know, I say this too as the daughter of a science teacher. Growing up with being so privileged and blessed to be given a lot of information on, on both sides of the subject – creationism and evolution. It's been a healthy foundation for me. But don't be afraid of information and let kids debate both sides. I agree, and while we are at it we should be teaching kids that the earth is round, or it could be flat, that disease is caused by microorganisms, or by miasmas and bad humors, that 1 + 1 =2 or 1 + 1 =3.

Could you post some approach beta?

So it wasn't just me...

Snowy and cold.

Just did the Ruth-Icy traverse. Total hiking time car to car was ~ 13 hours which we did over two days with a bivi on top of Ruth. Packing light one could do this in a reasonable day, but the sunrise over Baker, Shuksan, the Pickets should not be missed. We did not rope up for either the Ruth or Icy glaciers.

I am going to try to make it.

Partner found. Thanks for looking.

What is GB?

Thanks guys! I told my wife I was ok with turning 40 cause I had done a lot of climbing, raised a kid, have a great marriage, nice house, etc. She replied that she's not ok with it cause now she's married to an old guy.