mikeadam

Matt, Mountain Magic is the name of the gear shop in Banff that had 2 very unused, but mounted sets of the newer 404's (not the twist lock heel device). Not certain they will still be there, but may as well try eh? Good luck... Mike http://alpinelite.com

Everyone has their opinions about what is in shape and what's not. Best to just go up and look at it yourself. In my opinion the route as a "winter climb" is out of condition. Loose slushy snow puncuates the route... Spring conditions have began in earnest in the past 1.5 days with prior unsettled weather in the pass and surrounding areas (Gold Creek drainage for example). In general for the area... in the past 7 days there has been at least 14 inches of new snow with one significant dump of 8 inches as low as 4 thousand feet. Mixed ice and rain conditions and then yesterday/today africa heat. Yesterday from my different vantages I counted at least 20 seperate slides on different aspects. Mostly point releases probably triggered by solar radiation. However this included 2 slides on SE facing slopes that appear to have originated in the trees probably from a terrain trap somewhere. Others triggered by snow sloughing off cliff bands from above. The moment you step off any 'trail' plan on postholing to your waist or bring your snowspeeders. Granite mountains major gulleys (south facing) had natural releases in every major gully system. I saw cornices collapse on Silver peak. Overnight feels like spring...

bro- I didn't want to steer you wrong since conditions seem to change daily sometimes. So I went up there again after I posted the 1st time. The good news is the snow settled down and I didn't see any additional downward snow migrations...I approached it on skis with no hassles. The bad news though is the same as all year...it's really your call though. If not anything, go look at it, and if you don't like it climb The Tooth. Which actually looks quite good now...and pretty dry...hint Mike http://alpinelite.com

Jordan, ~wassup I just called my buddy Sean in Canmore to find out what's up with conditions. I know right now the area is having it's little avalanche festivities. Louise Falls is in and probably a few others. Cascade should be safe since the bowl above the ice finally released for the 1st time this year. Weeping wall bro...As soon as he calls me back I'll either post the conditions here or email you. How are you getting there? Do you want another partner? I know the goods AND the routine in Canmore/Banff/Jasper...I have Canadian friends there too. Mike http://alpinelite.com

[This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 03-20-2001).]

Thanks for the info...I believe you man...i better get in shape to keep up with that guy...

Martin Volken spoke to me about a snowboarder on TNF of Shuksan several years ago. I seriously doubt he took pictures of another party...if someone didn't report it, well yeah for them...probably some euro who cranks off the side of Le M every other day and wanted an easy day while visiting our little alps...who cares...I reported to the forum what I gathered during that conversation...first descents in general is what I referred to not the less than ideal lines...next time i'll clarify and not make generalizations...I'll look for your photos..until then...

B, OPINION NOTED...ANOTHER OPINION OFFERED... random banter is something that has always made this site interesting bro...there shouldn't be any structure or guidelines for a response...if someone thinking about the posted question generates an alternate response than the one the querying party may have anticipated, so much the better...in the office spaces of the eastside, seattle, boston and elsewhere, this site provides an avenue for communication...eventually someone will come online and provide the answer like Dru did...you have to let the post get blown around in the wind a bit...no one has ever displayed such a commanding tone in their initial postings... there is no insidious circle of cascadeclimber brownshirts who lay down the law when something like this pops up although Tim has asked before...no danke...this crowd punishes the belligerent... retro cranks desert ice...MrG peruses law libraries and clutches his cell phone protectively...Dru's a Canadian (Canada rulez!)...Borbon is the resident irish wino...Erik supervises groups of insect commando's intent on conquering crag girls everywhere...whillan's chain smokes and drinks pints of heavy...i spray on this thing when i should be outside seeing what's going on... you can go aggro if you want...fine with me...just sounds like static while we all slouch in our chairs and wait for someone like Dru to pony up the beta...your spray is the same as everyone else's attenuation...maybe you should register as the grump...sounds good to me... Does anyone know Mack Johnson? rock ninja disguised as a history teacher? Old man kicked my ass at the great and secret boulder yesterday...sigh... Mike

Oh yeah, someone was asking me about this the other day and now I can't remember who or which thread so I'll tack onto this one... There's a pic of Mikey leading "Cunning Stunt" with no bolts and trad gear and a photo of the rap down/lead back out section of ice at Ouray that someone was mentioning at... http://www.alpinelite.com/stories_images2.htm Mike

pretty much everything is dry after a few days...you could climb there today...where you driving from bro? Talkeetna...

Well uh...if you want to go back there tomorrow and find out email me at mikeadamson@alpinelite.com Mike

ashleyjudd.com was taken so I took the next logical available domain name...dot net points nowhere. Maybe I'll point it to whitehouse.com...

Loren, 54!....hmmmmm...maybe if I had been more enthusiastic the last time I saw Jens...NICE work bro...next year 100+ eh? Hyalite Canyon sounds fun. No bueno on the gloves...weather sucked...cold...wet...snowy...windy...skinnedand skied a few runs and then headed toward greener pastures...heated gym climbing...cute girls...maybe tomorrow but don't hold your breath because it's snowing at 4000ft in the pass....just another gear victim in the long list of many Noquality has claimed this year...spring will be booty city for those in the know eh? C Mortenson posting here now eh...too bad there's a Mr. Mortenson Mike http://alpinelite.com

I'll strangle I coyote to death with my bare hands...I'll walk through Death Valley naked...don't mess with me I'm the Voodabilly man.... ~DeadBolt

Geordie and I will skin up there in the morning and see if we see them. Mike http://alpinelite.com

I have a really killer photo of that area in recent conditions. FAT FAT FAT...I'll try to get it scanned tonight and put it up. Mike http://alpinelite.com

MrGoodTime, You are definitely my personal hero for the month. My nertz just shrivel looking at that thing... I'm going to start a new category called "Mr Good Time's adventure series" in your honor. Mike http://alpinelite.com

So sorry.... It has been reliably reported to me during a ski descent that there were snowboarders visually confirmed descending the NF of Shuksan. This was several years ago. I would say getting any first, second or even third descent or ascent in the Cascades is a pipe dream boyz... Mike http://alpinelite.com

Ray Borbon has a single crampon he would probably trade you for something useful. You can email him at a-raybor@microsoft.com Mike http://alpinelite.com

Hi, If anyone from the "Climb for Clean Air" needs a training partner prior to your ascent I will be available 7 days a week to provide assistance. Mike Contact me at: mikeadamson@alpinelite.com

Bedal Creek brush kind of tastes like chicken... http://mountainwerks.com/cma/delcampo.htm Mike http://alpinelite.com

You ARE pretty! http://bivouac.com/mtn/UserPg.asp?rq=UserPg&UserId=30

Not sure. We better ask old "Humptree"

I think I can help and thanks for reminding me. There's a little store in Banff that has 2 pair of the newer Silverettas mounted on a pair of used RCMP patrol skis. For the bindings and the skis they want about $175 US. The bindings are almost like new. If you are interested I'll call them and have both pairs shipped here today. I would want the $ in advance so when they come I don't end up with 2 pairs and only needing one. I already have tooo much gear anyway. Mike http://alpinelite.com

Erik you have always exceeded my expectations of you. This ones for you bro! http://alpinelite.com/climbingbumFEBRUARY.htm Mike