mikeadam

Dr. J, They certainly do seem to have a much more open approach to the mountains in Europe. It is a very popular pasttime. They also have the strongest guiding standards, adequate and professional mountain rescue, and easier access to very large and imposing peaks. Those that climb in Europe come back with a strange light in their eyes eh? Are you injecting the proposition that there may be some land management decisions imposed and enforced by government lawyers intent on sabotaging access to the land which legally belongs to every citizen of the United States? Bonus: Should we allow Euro style standards to intrude into Cascade mountaineering? ~Just in the interest of sparking debate..something that alot of lawyers do. Do doctors debate ethics too?

Dude, I'm not sure I'd want to eat something that ate the crotch out of your buddies drawers. Particularly some of the characters you hang out with.... Mike

Yes, there is a quality climb that was put up there a few years ago. The reason it was not reported to the magazines is because of issues with the land managers and the need to maintain peaceful coexistense with them. The route follows a beautiful line up the rust colored buttress to the North of the huge white rock scar on the concave face. The route can be viewed in full from Moon Valley road outside of North Bend. It is rated Grade IV 5.10+. The climbing is clean and aesthetic. All the fixed hardware (pins) were removed during the descent. The first ascent was put up by Martin Volken and Andy Dappen. Volken is a UIAGM guide and the owner of Pro Ski and Guide service located in Seattle and North Bend. Dappen is a writer for a prominent ski magazine. There is a topo and pictures of the route in the North Bend ski and climbing shop on North Bend Way. http://proguiding.com/ Contact: For information call: (425) 888-6397, or (206) 525-4425, or (208) 726-3859 martin@proguiding.com There iss evidence that Pete Doorish had planned on working the complete route at some point. He has been climbing there for 20+ years and uses that area for a "PRACTICE CRAG". At some point he had probably climbed every one of those pitches, so if credit were to be given for original ascent it should probably be Pete's, but Martin and Andy were the first to do the line as one continuous ascent line. Have fun and be VERY low key if you decide to try the route. Mike Adamson I edited this message because I originally mistyped that it was a 5.9+, but it's actually 5.10d. Sorry. [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 07-23-2001).]

Hey Wopper, US Army 89-96. I served in various units as an 11B/11M and as a scout in several infantry regiments. Caveman and I served together 2 years in 1/23inf 2ID before I got plucked to go to Scout Platoon. Along with John Gaddy and Duane Forquer our first sergeant referred to us as "Wyatt Earp and the boys" because we kept the Joes and cherry officers in line. Ranger Halling lives right up the street from me, and even showed up at my door wearing an unauthorized black Ranger sweatshirt yesterday. Keep yer hatchet sharp!

I've climbed with several of the choppers, and with one person who's led this route clean on gear. I respect all of them both as climbers and as people. Even with all the loyalty to my friends to contend with I felt I had to REALLY dig deep and think about this issue without blindly taking sides. I have my ideas who the rap bolters are, and if they are who I think they are, I respect them as climbers even if I do not agree with this act. In short, I do not want to lay a blanket over them or their ethics and throw down the gauntlet against them. It's not about "us & them". It's about the greater good for everyone. Maybe they felt as keenly as the choppers do that they were providing a service for the majority. However, I believe the majority were not in agreement in supporting the rap bolters case. I do believe they took a concensus among what they consider to be an experienced and long standing peer group long known to establish and repeat routes of quality in the Cascades. I do not believe they took into consideration climbers such as myself that still aspire to meet the challenge head on that this route represents. It was perhaps a oversight on their part, but we all make mistakes from time to time don't we? I think the majority of climbers respect and even need a route out there like DDD was prior to bolting. I know I do. I suspect I will never be able to lead this route in it's now unbolted form, but I'm OK with that. It's enough to know it's out there waiting should I ever choose to rise to it's level. If they want to come forward I would encourage it. It would certainly do much to heal this rift that has been created. From me at least you won't receive any judgements, but a willingness to hear your side and weigh your opinions for future efforts to create new lines for the future of the sport. I support the removal of the bolts on Castle Rock and support Ray, Mitch, and Will's efforts. Thanks to all of you. Now hopefully we can all get back to the business of enjoying the beauty of the mountains, our climbing partners, and challenging ourselves at our respective levels. Mike Adamson

Yesterday Jens and I were getting a good laugh talking about all the goofy things we've seen while climbing at Spanaway's Spire Rock. When I lived down there I used to climb on the Spire almost everyday, and saw my share of funny stuff. I can remember pulling a few bonehead maneuvers myself, but luckily the gang of 12 year olds who regularly hung out there set me straight more than once. They could have started their own Spire Rock Guides Service. I bet I've inadvertantly met more than a few of you who hung there from the period of 94-96. First off, let me say that I think The Spire is great little practice rock to learn on, AND it also brings out some of the most bizarre characters I've ever seen in my life. Most entertaining. I know some of you HAVE to remember "Bad Teeth Dan". Ya know, the wiry dude who had been in prison off and on for murder and other fine offenses, yet had the whole rock wired. He loved to sandbag newbies, myself included. Who can forget the 360 degree upside down problem in which he did a full revolving circle on the same 5 foot square of rock? What happened to Bad Teeth Dan I wonder? Anyone out there know? And what about all the twinkies who had the same traverse wired and could be found almost every other day doing the same moves to impress the ever present gapers (later on-myself included)? I bet if I went there now I'd be sandbagged by a whole new crew, and probably some of the old crew too. You know who you are. One of my favorite stories though is about one day I was complaining about my second climbing harness (the 1st one I had we called "The Death Harness") which had no gear loops (a BD alpine Bod). I was saying about how I needed to tie some 5 mm to some features that looked made for the part to make some. I was standing with Captain Caveman at the base of the "Crisco Slabs" when out of the corner of my eye I see this guy leaning out over the edge of the tower in an Australian rappel position. Just as quickly, and in a Bugs Bunny/Road Runner sort of manner, there was a suspended moment and then *POOF!* This guy comes flying straight down horizontally and decks out on the gravel at the base. Immediately, before the implications could even set in this guy jumps up like he had just performed some kind of rehearsed circus trick, throws his arms up in the air and yells "I'm alright!". Whoah! "That was kind of funny" I'm thinking to myself. Without another word the guy waltzes back around the roof corner like nothing had happened and disappears. Like a person drawn to the site of an accident I look down and notice that there are 2 plastic loops and some shredded cordalege right where the guys impact crater was at. OH SWEET! Premade Plastic loops for my gear slings!! But then I start thinking to myself while putting 2 and 2 together. Well duh, the reason Slizage decked out was he tied into his gear slings which at tops are probably rated for about 80 pounds and tried to Aussie Rappel. NOW THAT'S PRETTY FUNNY. But sort of dangerous too eh? So I climb up to the top of the tower and there he is again holding this granny knot with a puzzled look and fingering his haul bag loop with his right hand. So I say "Hey do you need some help". He accepted my help and I showed him how to tie in and how to tie some knots. I think he was all set to try again by tying into his haul line before I came up. Since I had done such a good deed I didn't bother telling him I had his gear slings in my pocket. I kept them, and they are still on that old alpine bod which I donated to Proguiding Service's basic rock classes. Right now your kid may be wearing them at Vantage or exit38. If you are missing your gear loops from about 1995 feel free to contact me and I will try not to bust out laughing in your face this time when I return them. Does anyone else have funny Spire stories, or UW/Marymoore tales to share? I'd like to hear them. Mike Adamson

If your tab ain't held down with white thread, we don't care cause you don't matter.

Great idea Dru! Can someone tell me how to get in touch with Rachel Babkirk?

There are a few pictures of the route from this Thursday at alpinelite. http://alpinelite.com/frame_test1.htm The route, approach, and glacier are fine and present no difficulties at all. Mike

I am looking for a small condo, basement, house share, or cabin for this September thru about May in the Snoqualmie Pass area. If anyone has something like this or knows someone please email me @ mikeadamson@alpinelite.com

Drew, The infamous S. Easton of E Face and SkullF*(k fame should be hunkered down somewhere in Squamish about now. If you see his balding pate around there tell him to email me ASAP.

I really want to beat my chest about something in this thread, but I have nothing really important to say (as usual) and will clip any bolt on any climb anytime-anywhere. Hitting the ground hurts too much not to. If you had any 'real' balls you would remove those bolts on lead. I mean you don't want to gain the moniker "RAP CHOPPER" do ya?????? Mike P.S. I know who placed the bolts on the 10b next to dogleg crack....what gives homey???? You guys are wierd.

Pencil D(*k, Great idea! See you at the party.... Mike

Wotan I love the summit Guru photo! I'm rolling... http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-179785.html

Good job staying alive Bill! It happens and it's kind of just the way it is sometimes. Hope your recovery is rapid and the sun shines on all your warm rock climbs. Mike

Dude, you are absolutely correct. I am also eagerly awaiting some powder face shots. I'm not sure what's more enticing. Looking down something steep or looking up at something steep and wondering just how the hell you're ever going to get up/down it. I'd have to say that skiing and ski mountaineering in general are more exciting that ice climbing, but ice climbing is pretty surreal in itself. Just apples and oranges I suppose. Mike

Hamms Beer or Old Milyukky

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/sports/134307516_judd17.html

Pertaining to climbing destinations in the PNW of course. There are some OK ones, but my favorite (and I WILL shamelessly plug) is SCALE BURGER out of the Paradise entrance at Rainier NP. Ya know the one with bacon and cheese and those big honkin, salty fries! DROOL.... Are there some others I should be investigating to increase my strength in the mountains?

I've fallen and can't get up. [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 06-27-2001).]

A word to the budget minded. When I was there in Yosemite Chongo sold his "last" printed copy to Joe. I believe this keeps demand high. Try to barter with Charles unless you absolutely feel compelled to pay full price. Also, he has a reasonable barter ethic too. Mike

I would climb Rachel Babkirk solo...

Are we polluting the vertical gene pool? I'm going to go to Canada RIGHT NOW where they breed one of the finest groups of climbing humanity in the world, spread my seed and find out. More reports when I return eh?

And that's why we all REALLY climb isn't it? For the chicks!

3 to 4 minutes prying them out? Shit homey! That sounds like me on real ice even before I start to get gripped. Am I doing something wrong?????