Lostbolt

Hey Eli I just stumbled upon this, I am sending good thoughts to you. I lost my son in June 2024, his irish twin brother has had it the hardest. I can somewhat understand and relate to what your family is feeling. Something I have learned on my journey through this dark time, Is that it doesn't get better per say more so different. Eventually the hard thoughts bring a different emotion instead of pain. The things that use to make us fall apart make us miss them and will bring some peace. It will always hurt yet it will eventually not physically hurt so bad. We all make choices in our lives, your brother made a choice of his own do not let the dark thoughts and the what if's take you down a rabbit hole. Seek support either group or individual. In my familys loss of a child or sibling group some people have been going for 5-6 years. They are not weak, we all grieve differently and at different speeds. . l know how hard writing this probably hit you, how emotionally taxing it is. Please feel free to reach out to me, for a ear, a hike, or a resource. I live on the south west side of Washington but currently vantage living the week in Vantage/Moses. You did what you could, don't let the dark thoughts win, hold your head up and focus your energy on doing the next thing. Maybe climbing be enjoyable maybe not either its not a right now thing.

Lane peak The zipper is a standard one. Depending on how comfy with exposure there are a few up Mount Washington in the olympics. And the one to the south of washington.

Nice snag Jason, I hope to see some trip reports out of it!

Great write up how old are the boys? Mine is 13 and I think this is another good trip for this summer.

Great Report it gave my middle son some much needed stoke.

Have done Chair buttress in a dry powder year and a good water ice year. Chair is very comparable to DK1/Gates on hood as far as difficultly to me. Route finding isn't to bad/ hard Climb enough and you can sniff a way up. The higher consequnce part is the slabs just below and above the Wi3 step on Chair. The snow conditions are way more sensitive. NY Gully is a good challenging route to get on up there. This based on multi summits of Hood,Adams,Rainier, ectect. Shoot me a PM and we can exchange information, I am always looking for personality's that fit and another option on the climbing contacts list.

Such a bad ass man!!

Nice corner you guys got on looks to have some good rests and possible stemming. Is it in its way in or out I haven't been down there this year?

Excellent job and wonderful pictures! wondering what you guys would rate the climb?

You have my interest, I will use the google machine. Where you going to include this said link here on a post?

I have climbed Ice cliff and stuart col. west ridge a few years ago in prime condition in middle april. I went in yesterday for a C2C and summited Colchuck to get a eye on things. Dragon tail has triple Col coming in the ice step is just starting to form, I would attempt it in the next few weeks. As far as Stuart goes, the end of april would probably be better. As of now the ice cliff and Stuart Glacier faces are loaded and probably full of loose dry sluff with a crappy crust. The summit block and ridge lines are in there winter state also. Gerber sink is not in a condition for screws. Hopefully this weather system keeps up and forms some better route conditions. Be prepared for the spring time afternoon high winds and crappy fronts that roll in this time of year. The gate at 8mile campground is still closed and will be for some time, I hit snow at about 1.5 mi in. It was about 1ft deep and consistent at the 2 mile mark. The trail is packed to the Colchuck intersection and easy travel in the cooler hrs. If you need a second reach out and I might be able to make it work, best of luck. will load pictures soon.

Thank you for getting back on your assessment it's much appreciated.

How did conditions on Gib Ledges look, everything glued together pretty well above you? Nice Job!

I think those were by far my favorite trip reports to read. They also fall in line of my thoughts on wouldn't it be cool to climb.. like Sir Alexandra in Canada they are far in and very committing. You are fortunate to have found a partner to attempt these climbs with you. Keep em up and Cheers to you both!

Matt was a good forecaster and I am sure a very talented individual. Its a sad deal in many aspects. Never knew about crap like that on the internet, I appreciate you guys sharing. I hope the NWAC Family is getting time to process this tragic event.

Awesome report!! What are your favorite 3 that you have done on this winter bulgers tick list?

Is that what those are? I will keep a eye out for you on others that might work

I was able to make this setup work with some old rear crampon straps, I haven't found a narrow toe bail that will work yet. I haven't noticed any movement on the boot once its locked in though. Its stiff enough for the stuff I do down the roads and approaches. I have not put the downhill lock back on yet as I wasn't sure if I would be keeping them.

In between Eagle and Wahpenayo is Chutla also good little scramble. Nice job catching the weather and getting to the seldom visited end of the Tatoosh.

Most excellent!!

Interesting trip report and Climb. The others that have commented are good climbers, some I know personally. Its nice to see you guys hear the advice and respond positively. I have read Down and actually own a copy, some of the ways things are done in there are only good for certain situations. Learning from others I.E a guide, The Mountaineers, Washington Alpine Club are worth it. Don't be afraid to reach out and ask to gain good experience bumming a ride to Hyalite and tagging along to learn is very possible and being up front and honest money and skill wise is nothing to be ashamed of. Proper planning including, having Plan A,B,C, A detailed topo of previous routes and descents, pre trip and post weather information seem so boring but will make your trip that much better. Don't rely on one source like technology or mountain project. Work or that hot dinner date ect are not worth compounding and increasing the risk of your life. If you made a bad call and showed up at noon or the next day, a good person would understand and be glad you are safe. I have been on longer than expected climbs 26hrs+/-. A mylar emergency bivy bag and a jet boil will keep you coming back the next day. I definitely understand tunnel vision planning to stop and eat drink at this time or this belay station and making it a must will help curb the crash. The approach and grade are something to work into, its hard to ditch the go big mindset but its a must for a long life. I have always been diligent about stair stepping. It never crossed my mind of attempting Trip Col. before I felt comfortable on chair peak NE Butt. ect. Take a few more years learning mixed and Ice in a controlled environment with less commitment, use these crags to hone your skills. The rope and gear are there to protect us for the oh shit moments, not to allow us to climb above our grade and take whippers. There is no shame in bailing at the base because its more than you expected. Good job making it out, seems like you all ready know this is a big learning experience. I hope that your next one is less of a pucker factor and more fun even if its only 2 pitches. Don't be afraid to reach out. Climb safe and stay Humble.

That is just RAD man great report!! I have wished to get into there in the winter, excellent use of the weather window we had!

Good to know look forward to a report when you get back and best of luck. I was planning on this spring but due to life have to push it out a year. Oly or Jason I hope I would be able to take you up on that offer when my planning phase gets closer.

Excellent Job and that exit shot of the chimney is priceless!

Round 2 out Hyalite, hopefully Liberty Ridge, and the North face of Shuksan. Ideally Lincoln peak but I don't know if conditions will be favorable this year.