kmfoerster

@JasonG the base of the route was more melted out than I was expecting for this time of year. Thought we were going to get a mellow snow ramp up to the ice. I suppose with the snow melt we traded a bit of easier conditions for not having a post-holing nightmare through the boulder fields. Also, all but the second photo (iPhone X) were taken with a Sony RX0. First time using it on a climb!

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier Trip Date: 05/24/2020 Trip Report: Yesterday my friend Matt and I Climbed Mt. Stuart's Ice Cliff Glacier. They opened up the Icicle on Friday but are keeping Eight Mile road gated until next weekend. So we got to Leavenworth around 8:30 or so Saturday morning and started biking up the road. The road and Stuart Lake Trail were completely snow free, along with most of the summer climbers path until about 5300'. We got to the basin at 5400' early afternoon and just hangout. It felt great to just sit there and "smell the roses" in the alpine. We also took some time to put in a bootpack up to the moraine and check out the condition of the route. At first glance the lower portion was looking dry as we kept walking up the ridge of the moraine to get a better view. Both left and right options were looking rather bony. Not to mention both exit options on the upper couloir had massive cornices at the top of them. The right side looked like it had something possibly around the corner to the right that was out of view at the moment. We walked back to our camp and just decided we would have to get up close and personal with the route options to make any judgement calls on the conditions. Between then and when it got dark I had a lot of "what if's" racing through my head. We got up at 2am and started moving shortly after. We decided that the left start was the most probable and headed there first. As we got closer it appeared climbable and turned out to be a ledgy mixed pitch with thin ice and firm snow. From there it was one ice pitch to the top of the lowest ice cliff and then one simul block to the snowfield in the cirque. The cornices still looked daunting from there and we decided we would still need to get up there and poke around. While climbing up to the couloir my eyes couldn't help but look at other things to consider as potential exit options since the cornices still seemed to mostly span the width of the upper couloir. I even poked around on a leftward snow ramp that leads to the Ice Cliff Arete just in case the upper couloir wouldn't go for us (I wouldn't bother if I was you). Other than that it was mostly uneventful from the snowfield to the constriction in the couloir, just good steep snow with a few patches of ice through the runnel. We simul'ed all of that too. The sun started to hit the east facing wall around 7:30-8:00am in the couloir and thus ice and snow started shedding. Getting up to the fork in the couloir we could see that the right side did in fact have and area that had way smaller cornices. This was a relief to see! We got up to the top of the couloir and I looked at our exit options. In the end I chose a blocky-ish mixed step that required a bit of cornice excavation to top out (thank you to whoever placed that Russian titanium piton in that area before us). It helped that the cornice had a fat ice crust in the middle of it to swing into. We topped out around 9am. The snow on the south side was surprisingly wet and it was a lot warmer there than I expected. We elected to not head to the summit since we did what we came there to do and it was warming rapidly. I noticed the usual cornices at the top of the Sherpa Glacier from camp the day prior and didn't want to play with cornices anymore. Descent down the Sherpa went smoothly but the snow was very wet. Broke camp and made our way out. This is a pretty damn good route and being in the cirque above the ice cliff is an incredible experience. I thought the climbing was fun but if I had to pick a favorite popular north side spring route on Stuart I'd choose the SGC over the ICG. After a few months of not even really thinking about climbing, it felt so satisfying to be out there in that environment immersed in the moments of self-doubt and pride that climbing provides. Gear Notes: Half rack of nuts, .75-2 cams, 2 Pickets (used quite often), 2x17 3x13 1x10 screws (used all). Some pitons could've been useful. Gear nerd side note: two Petzl Gullys with pick weights worked very well. Im in love with that setup now. Approach Notes: Follow the web of cairns, the bigger the better. Good log crossings if you stay directly on the climbers path through the beginning.

A few no-sew dcf stuff sacks using instructions from the video above. I use the .5" double sided dcf tape from ripstopbytheroll.com. I make the reinforcement patches by applying the tape to the fabric and then cutting a patch out and then peeling the last paper strip off the adhesive tape. Then I just apply it like a piece of tenacious tape or whatever tape style patch material. For those of you who don't want to pay for the dyneema stuff and maybe just would like to pick up some light nylon ripstop, 3M makes a double sided tape that bonds to fabrics with a PU (polyurethane) coating as well as dcf. It does not work with SIL coated fabrics. It's called "3M 9485PC". https://www.rshughes.com/p/3M-9485PC-Clear-Transfer-Tape-1-In-Width-X-60-Yd-Length-5-Mil-Thick-Densified-Kraft-Paper-Liner-63477/021200_63477/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-3P0O6g4gIVCMDICh1QwQhTEAYYAyABEgJs__D_BwE&utm_source=rshgs&utm_campaign=021200-63477&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI4-3P0O6g4gIVCMDICh1QwQhTEAYYAyABEgJs__D_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!4414!3!207031288217!!!g!335067319566! If you don' make want to make stuff with these tapes, they still could be used to make repair patches. They would end up being more permanent than tenacious tape or some of the other tapes people use. A bead of seam grip around the edges of any tape patch will prevent peeling and add another level of durability. A few things to note would be that for maximum strength these taped seams need to rest a few days to bond fully. They also destabilize or loose strength in temperature extremes. As far as most stuff sack applications or most repairs are concerned, it's not really an issue.

This. I don't know how, but I swear its true.

I use Sportiva trango ice cubes. I size them a half size bigger than other stuff I wear with Sportiva to allow a thicker sock and keep the toe bashing down. Ive worn them in winter here in the Cascades without issue except for the coldest days. I can only think of one time that I've worn them that my feet have felt slightly cold. Apparently theres some durability issue with the lace hooks at the top, but I haven't had any break. I don't lace up that tight I guess. The water proofness is pretty good on them. I think they are a great boot for Cascades fall through spring in normal temps. One thing I wish was different is that I would like to see the integrated gaiter go a bit higher. I bought a pair of G5's this season to have a warmer boot in the quiver, in the same size, and they fit great. Slightly wider than the trango last. Haven't used them yet though...

Heres a new stuff sack I made for my cook kit/food bag. Its made of .8oz DCF (so lite, bro) or non-woven Dyneema or cuben fiber, sewn with seam grip applied after. If anyones looking for a relatively easy but not so cheap introduction into MYOG, working with DCF and double sided Dyneema tape to make stuff sacks would be a pretty decent way to go about it. You wouldn't need a machine, just a bit of patience and precision.

@Atom yeah I use a 1" swing away binding attachment. I use the one made by Sailrite. I feel like the opening at the mouth of it is big enough to accommodate most of my layer stack ups that occur, and thicker I'll just bind that section by hand. Makes binding much quicker but I will say that it takes some time and practice to get good with it, i.e having the seam for the binding end up near your main seam and binding curves especially.

Its trapezoid shaped, tapering from 11" (back panel) to 6" (just below pick pocket). The side measurements where your seam allowance is on the bottom panel has to match the distance of the seam allowance on the packs main side panel for the area you're trying to cover with the bottom panel. Hard to explain, maybe these pictures might help: Hope that helps, it's about the best I can do over the internet. The key when dealing with curves is keeping the length measurements the same at the seam allowance lines. Sorry for mixing fractions and decimals. I usually use a 3/8" seam allowance so a panel gets 3/4" ( 3/8" each side) added to its cut dimensions.

Are you close to a coffee table book now?! Would buy..

@DPS Thanks! I'm more or less self taught. Been at it for about 2 years now. Any prior sewing knowledge was pretty minuscule, just a faint idea from home-ec in middle school/highschool and what my mom has shown me a long time ago. It's pretty wild to think that it all started with "I want to make a goofy little bag for my bike and have something for repairs."

@JasonG Thank you! Currently I feel like 30L is my limit just because I cant fit too much more material under the presser foot of my machine and packs bigger than 30L should really have a beefier suspension system. Thicker shoulder straps etc. Give me time! Definitely on the horizon. Have you tried sneaking lenses in partners packs? Maybe disguise them as food or beer? Speaking of camera gear... Picked up this Sony RX0 used and I'm really quite impressed with it. Made a DIY neck leash for use while climbing. Before I had always just used my phone, but I'm always a bit scared I'm going to drop it.

Looks like you hit the nail on the head with what I would also consider a good climbing pack. Heres my most recent 30l climbing pack I made, blending what I like about Cilogear and Alpine Luddites: Very similar and just slightly smaller than a cilogear 30l. Used a different closure system because if the pack has a removable lid, I'm often not using it. Permanent lids tend to work better I think, less flop factor. The body of the pack is made from a newer woven dyneema hybrid (around 45% dyneema). The stuff is bomb proof (and expensive...), got bored trying to wear a hole in a test scrap with 80 grit sandpaper. So far It's been out for one climb and a few ski tours this winter.

On the topic of grip tape, I wrap the full length of my ice tools with Temflex. Keeps my hands a bit warmer while daggering and helps keep snow from building up on the shafts. Nothing new here, just my take on the idea. @Alisse, as far a shoulder strap water bottle holder go, many companies make a removable shoulder strap pocket for such things. I can't personally think of a DIY solution short of just sewing something similar to what those companies make. Perhaps a bunch of elastic shock cord loops with cord-locks (around your shoulder strap webbing and bottle) would be a cheap but not as secure way of going about it. That could work well with a bottle with a bunch of ridges (Gatorade) on the side or a soft flask type bottle.

NE Couloir of Mclellan: http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/2012/05/spring-update.html

Alright I know I'm not the only one who tinkers with my clothes or gear for climbing.... Let's see what you've done to improve a particular piece or what you've made on your own! I'll start with some easy mods I've done and if this thread gains traction I'll add some more along with gear I've made myself. Shock cord keeper on a pair of Raab pants that where lacking grommets or anything to attach the shock cord to. Posted in a glove discussion thread but here they are again. Added cinch collars to a pair of Showa TEMRES. Soon we won't have to do this ourselves though. Small detail that makes a HUGE difference. Bigger pull tabs on a pair of Patagonia Pant's zippers. Nothing worse than being at an anchor and struggling to get your fly unzipped with gloves on.

On repeat in my head, while climbing in moody weather.

Would gladly offer up info/photos for the Stuart Glacier Couloir and Eldo's NW Couloir , if needed, when the time comes.

Good point on it being a collection. Love having all of those songs in one place, meshing perfectly. My older brother showed me Lonesome Crowded West when I was in middle school, years after it came out. It blew my mind and was very much a gateway to a lot of great artists for me.

This album has been pairing well with my mood lately. Always a classic and now 20 years old...

Thanks Kyle for putting this together and managing it! Most of these routes I have just floating around in my head winter through spring, never really bothered to make a list for myself. Let's pull some of these out of obscurity moving forward. We really do have a big winter playground, we just have to put in the work.

Both times I've been on it p1 and p2 were funky aerated ice. Couldn't protect it with screws either time except at the very top of the fan where the ice was the thickest. Not much in the way of rock pro on the right hand side going up except for some small stoppers or knifeblades. Another option for p2 is to continue straight up (staying in the dihedral) from the belay cave after p1, may offer more chances for rock pro. I thought the 15' mixed step at the notch was fun but short, wish it went on a bit longer. Despite the very runout nature of this climb I think its pretty enjoyable and offers a better mix of climbing than doing the south ridge in winter. Nice work!

Awesome! I love that run.

I've since hopped on the Showa TEMRES 282 train after using them in wet and cold work conditions. I work as a climbing arborist, and tree work tends to destroy gloves. The blue Showa's are insanely durable, much more so than the orange ones I like. I might use the orange 406's more for spring stuff now and the TEMRES 282's for winter. I modified a couple of pairs recently with a cinch collar like Colin Haley does: But fans of these gloves will be excited to know that Showa is coming out with a new version of the 282's that are not smurf blue and have a collar already! https://andrewskurka.com/preview-showa-282-02-gloves/

No need to head out in the hills, some kind gentleman gave me the conditions report this morning on my commute.

Thanks for posting that. The image of the color changing fiber with the figure eight is a great visual to how rope is stressed differently because of bends. Whenever you bend a rope, the outside fibers of the sheath and core are under much more stress than the fibers on the inside of the bend. Rope is strongest in a straight pull. Same with webbing, it gets weaker when you introduce twists and bends. Luckily for recreational purposes these reductions in strength are nothing to worry about. I also thought it was quite interesting what they said about knots with opposite twists holding better. I guess it makes sense, just never really thought about it.