sugiyama_ss

Fantastic! Nice photos and write-up too. Thanks!

Wow, what a conincidence: @pugetgold and I climbed The Triad yesterday. I don't think it gets climbed very often. When you posted this report we were camping near the trailhead. That topo would have been very useful but we managed to piece the route together from various trip reports. Your photos are terrific. There's quite a bit less snow now and there's some wildfire haze around.

Nice going Rob and Chris! Great write-up too.

Rad, Great trip report! I was in the party of four you met on the way in. Glad to hear that it went for you and David. I'm also happy that we didn't have to resort to melting that snow! Our trip was written up here: Goode Mountain/Northeast Buttress. This climb was a highlight of this summer for me.

Alisse, it was nice running into you and Aaron at your camp on Thursday. We were staggering, yes, and possibly not completely coherent. By that point of the approach we were pretty spent and tired of the mosquito swarms. The rest of our trip went great. We climbed Tricouni, Primus, and Austera on Friday, Klawatti on Saturday, Dorado Needle on Sunday, and then staggered out to the Eldorado trailhead. Stephen

My Friends Were Mountaineers: A film about Dee Molenaar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbQqnrf-n7I

I enjoyed your episode of The Firn Line podcast. You did a good job describing the route in a clear fashion while flavoring the sequence with your experience climbing the route. And, boy, what a route! (I've read your trip reports since running into you on Dragontail/3C a few years ago.)

That was @pugetgold and myself climbing the "right" variation ahead of you. The steps in the avy crown might be the ones I cut. If you followed a boot track going to the right just below the summit cap, that was probably us. What a fun route! Here's a photo of the crumbly rock section: Glad that you made it out OK. As we descended the Coleman glacier we saw a couple parties still on the route and we worried about them.

Sound like a great trip, glad it went for you.

Here's a view down the upper couloir on Sunday. The South Arete would be a better choice the rest of the season.

Here's a photo from our climb. It's a sunrise view looking down the Reid Headwall with the shadow of Mt Hood on the clouds below.

I was at Camp Muir this weekend. The weather on Saturday was pretty much as forecast: beautiful and sunny during the day but turning poor in the mid-afternoon. It was a good day to summit but the climbers were late in descending. I don't know why. Saturday night was nasty, with gusting winds, low temperatures, and snow. I'm surprised that anyone survived and open bivy. The two climbers were very experienced mountaineers. Both had climbed multiple 8000 m. peaks before. But they weren't from the area any maybe the speed at which the weather can change on Rainier was a surprise.

The Sunday weather was great. Comfortable and clear. But, yeah, the hike out was long and hot.

Thanks for the nice trip report. We climbed the day after you, camping above Winnies Slide on Saturday and summiting on Sunday. I agree with your assessment of the route conditions. It's good now but it may not last much longer. The USGS map does have Winnies slide in the wrong place. It also disagrees with Beckey about the location of The Hourglass. And what's labeled "Fisher Chimney" isn't.

We went up the Kautz Glacier route a few weeks ago, June 20-21. The route was in great shape at that time. We simulclimbed the two steep bits and used screws for protection. We carried over and descended the DC route, which was super easy -- the guide services put in a lot of work to keep it in shape -- and we summitted at 10:15 a.m., after the crowds had descended. The Fan was tedious but fine. No problems with rockfall.

I'm thinking of trying the NE Buttress in a couple weeks. Are there reasons to prefer the E Rib (1951) or the W Rib (1957)?

I was in the group that you met at the col when you descended in the morning, with the helicopter buzzing overhead. Thanks for making this post, which fills in the story. I'm also interested to hear more about the PLB situation as I am planning to purchase one. We had started up the NBC but bailed at the constriction, not liking the conditions, at least for our fairly inexperienced group. The previous day we spoke to some climbers that had been turned back from Northeast Coulior after wallowing in hip-deep snow so we went in forewarned. It's interesting that the conditions on Colchuck were so different from Dragontail, where many teams made it up the Triple Couloirs. When we trudged out we also spoke to the gentleman who took ill and bivied on the face of Dragontail. It was a good weekend for epics.