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About cjm84

  • Birthday 12/12/1984


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Gumby (1/14)



  1. Climbed both the N Ridge (ski descent of W Face) and Adams Glacier (ski descent of NFNWR) over the last week and peeked over at Stormy. Looked pretty straightforward to access it from high camp, with some cracks at the base of the route if I remember correctly. I'll see if I have a picture of it.
  2. are you looking to do some ice climbing on the lower coleman?
  3. I have had a delorme in reach for 6 months now. I like it and it has served me well so far. Pros: - Bluetooth connection to phone (allows me to SMS text anyone on my contact list thru the device) - Tracking is live updated on a website that friends/family can track (password protected). I have it set for 10 min interval updates (when static, the device power saves and only sends every three hours) - GPS is okay / I prefer my phone with Gaia GPS app - Adjustable subscription plans - Battery life (50% battery after 3 days of constant on) Cons: - Expensive - Subscription plans (the gift that keeps giving) - Needs a clear line of sight to the sky (keeping it in the pack disrupts tracking signal) - Has turned off on me accidently while in a bag/pocket - Texting does take forever to go through, but at least you can see if it did or not - Family being able to track means...they worry more actually
  4. Nice! Thanks for the TR. Went up the DC last week and got some nice racoon eye tan lines and sun burn. Gotta love the variable weather around here. As for conditions ... on 5 june there was a large crevasse opening up around the flats before you hit the DC. The guide services had a ladder cached there, but it wasn't in use yet. On the upper mountain above the DC I remember end running 2 large crevasses and crossing the bergschrund on a well traveled snow bridge. Everything is well wanded and marked by the guide services. Here is one of the crevasses opening up on the upper mountain: This was the snow bridge area near the schrund:
  5. perfect timing, was looking for a quick conditions update. thanks for the TR! heading that way tonight.
  6. firebeard - thanks for the TR and...log beta, ha. Buddy and I might do Silverstar this weekend, depending on the weather.
  7. Sounds like it was a good time! Hopefully the road opens soon. Was out there a few weeks ago at Colchuck.
  8. Trip: South Early Winter Spire - South West Couloir Date: 4/30/2016 Trip Report: We made a trip up South Early Winter Spire via the SW Couloir on Saturday. We parked at the Blue Lake Trail Head and made our way through the woods to the large clearing below the Winter Spires. The snow was very firm and took crampons well. We climbed past the chockstone and up to the fork in the couloir, where we decided to pitch it out (not exactly necessary - we ran into a friendly group of 3 out that day that didn't rope up). A lot of the upper section of the couloir has melted out already, making for some loose choss/rocks. We stuck to the sides of the gully, where there are some good holds to use. To protect the route, we used some snow pickets and cams. A second tool was nice to have, but not necessary, for the steep snow. The last little scramble up the rocks to the summit is pretty much snow free. While there are some rap stations you can use on the way down, we opted to down climb the couloir with the crampons on. Leisurely returned to the car the same way we came. The SW Couloir On the way up At the top of the couloir Couloir conditions Gear Notes: Used some pickets and cams (.5 and .75). Second tool was nice to have. Approach Notes: Started at Blue Lake Trail Head. Parking lot is still snowed in - there was parking available on the side of the high way. Trail is snowed over right now.
  9. cjm84


    Hey - I went up Hogback/Pearly Gates last week (18 April). My buddy and I ran into a bunch of folks skinning up the south side (we just walked up). A couple solos, too. No one roped up that day - no need. No schrund, no crevasses. We brought the usual pickets, harnesses and a glacier rope but there was no need for them. Seems most were skinning up to around Crater Rock (or short of it by a few hundred feet), then ditching the skis or boards at the base of Hogback and booting it up through Pearly Gates to summit. I brought an extra tool, which made the gates easier - but last week it wasn't necessary, I'm pretty sure I was the only one who did. Saw some tracks heading down the old chute, but I'm not sure of the snow conditions. By mid morning everything was getting pretty slushy on the way down.
  10. I took the trad lead course (private instruction) through the NW Mountain School. The course was fantastic - highly recommended. Our guide, Matt, was outstanding. I've already applied what I learned and led some 5.6 to 5.8 trad routes. I'd be interested in following up that course with their multi-pitch instruction (only offered 2:1 student to guide ratio) - let me know when you get around to that course!
  11. Those are some great photos! Thanks for the TR.
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