mthorman

Cool trip and thanks for posting! I have always wanted to get around onto this side of the mountain.

Yea, it is a shame that they tapered the crack so far down. It doesn't look like any of those cams would have been able to be "placed" through the constriction they pulled them through. So basically you are testing it as a nut placement. I guess it is interesting to see what breaks first on the cams.....lobes, sling, or wire. But I would be more interested in the actual holding power of the cam on ideal placements. Like what was the dynamometer showing when the cams were slipping before they became overcammed in the constriction?

Great idea. I always learn so much by my own and other people's mistakes. 1. I used to girth hitch the little cord of my point and shoot camera into a sling so as to prevent from accidentally dropping it. Then one day about 5 pitches up on SEWS I looked down to see that I had clipped into that little camera cord as my tether at the anchor. Someone I grabbed the main sling but instead of clipping into the end of it I clipped into the carmera cord at the end. Needless to say I don't ever tether my camera by a sling anymore..... 2. I had a friend fall and die while climbing with a new partner on a long multipitch route. They were climbing above their ability but their new partner didn't realize it. At the time, I was climbing with a lot of new people on bigger routes as well. I realized that I could have easily been my friend's "new climbing partner" in that scenario. It is so hard to tell someone's actual level of experience from a hike up to a cliff/mountain. I had previously thought that as long as I was solid at whatever grade we were doing it didn't matter. But after a lot of reflection I decided that wasn't true. If I was climbing with someone of less ability they could want to "hold up their end of the partnership" by leading, routefinding etc. But what if they are way in over their heads, and I don't know it because I don't know them as a person or their past experience. Now days I want to spend a day cragging or just get to know someone as a friend before getting into a big route together.

Haha...yea. What surprised me was that you had to buy an online climbing permit in the first place. Is that new this year? Granted it has been a couple years since I have been up there but I only remember having to fill out a free wilderness permit.

So according to the USFS, climbing Mt. Adams is currently closed due to COVID, and they say permits will be available from Recreation.gov once the trailhead re-opens. https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/giffordpinchot/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb5435984

If you have an attic the rafters work well. I just screwed in long lag screws but left the head out about 1". Then I slot the hole in the ice tool head over the screw head. Doesn't help your technique but it sure works out the arms! I have been doing 90 sec circuits followed by 4.5min rest (repeat 6 times for about a 30 min power endurance workout) I tried to upload a 5 sec video clip but it just puts it as a file you have to download (IMG_2251.mp4). But below is a screen shot from the video.

Just FYI the Scarpa Phantom Tech was updated last year (2019). The new version supposedly fixes the durability issues with the sole and zipper. Obviously I don't think it has been out long enough for anyone to truly know but might be worth looking into what exactly got changed. Personally I have the old version of the Tech and really like it. It is lighter, more waterproof, and I think warmer than my Nepals. I have also worn the Scarpa 6000 a bit. It is definitely a heavier and warmer version of the Tech. But it doesn't walk as nice nor do I feel very nimble to like scramble rock on an approach. I have multiple climbing partners with the Sportiva G5. They all love the boots and say they are very warm. One of the nice things is the BOA system.....quick and easy adjustment. One of my buddies loves it because he can loosen his boots at belays on a long multipitch climb.

Interesting.....I bet that if it had made the list it would be climbed a LOT more!

I rigged up an old phone cord for my nut tool tether. It allows a long reach but retracts so it doesn't get in the way. I can't claim it as original as I got it from John Godino's website. He has quite a list of cool DIY mods. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/diy-gear-making-and-modification

Porter, you should definitely plan a trip up there next winter! Thanks Jason, yes all the photos posted are mine.

Trip: Cabinet Mountains - Multiple Trip Date: 03/21/2020 Trip Report: I just wanted to share some photos and descriptions from the last couple ice seasons in the Cabinet Mountains. Anyone who got the 2019 AAJ or Alpinist 64 might have already seen pictures of the area. There have been a handful of Spokane area climbers putting up routes over the last couple seasons. All the climbing has been done out of Granite Lake which is near Libby, MT in the Cabinet Mountains. The climbing is quite varied, from single pitch WI3 to 1000ft hard ice and mixed routes. The area has been divided up into 3 big areas….A Peak, The Thunderdome, and Three Tiers. A picture is worth a thousand words so I will just resort to numerous pictures instead of more text……let the stoke begin for next season!! Looking across Granite Lake with A Peak towering 4000 feet above. The Thunderdome is the large sub dome in the center of the picture. The Thunderdome!! Some of the best ice routes anywhere around. Scott Coldiron and Matt Cornell on the first ascent of Mad Max, WI5+ (8 pitches). Nate Kenney climbing a steep skinny pillar called War Boys, WI5+. Scott Coldiron climbing a crazy pitch called Underworld, WI3. This route is 20m long and entirely inside an ice cave 500 feet up the Thunderdome! Another view of the spectacular A Peak and the upper wall of the Thunderdome. The big ice in the center of the wall is Road Warrior, WI5, M5 (8 pitches). Looking up the huge gash on A Peak. Scott Coldiron and Jess Roskelley put up the route Canmore Wedding Party AI5, M7, 750m, which ascends this central gash. The climb got nominated for a Piolet d'Or in 2019. Note: the large sheet of ice on the bottom rock band is still unclimbed as of 2020. Looking up the wide start to the "Blaster Routes". Blaster, WI4 is five pitches of ice while Master Blaster WI4, M5, (10 pitches) continues to the top of the Thunderdome. Looking up from the lake at the "Three Tiers". These cliffs have about 20-25 ice and mixed routes that have been done. A closer view of the the ice (during a fat season) on the center of the 2nd Tier with the 3rd Tier above. Scott Coldiron on the first ascent of Toast, WI5 on the 2nd Tier. Zach Turner leading The Dag, WI3 on the 2nd Tier......a super fun mellow corner. A shot of some of the 3rd Tier routes. Gyro Captain, WI4, goes up the ice on the right while Pig Killer, WI3, takes a line up some of the ice on the left. Multiple possibilities exist for mixed routes connecting the lower ice flows in the center up through the rock to the hanging ice above. Zach Tuner rappelling off Max's Bloodline, WI4, with the impressive routes on Thunderdome in the background. Jonathan Klaucke climbing funky ice on Cheedo, WI3-4, on the 2nd Tier. Looking across at the right hand end of the Three Tiers from the Thunderdome. The wide flow in the center is the start of Tomorrow Land, WI3+, 3 pitches, while the ice up on the right is Devil's Brownies, WI4, 2 pitches, and then farther right is Scales of Justice, WI4/5. Zach Tuner on the skinny pillar start to Splendid Angharad, WI5. The flow farther left is called Capable, WI4. Looking up the 2nd pitch of Tomorrow Land, WI3+ on the first ascent. This fat climb called Nightrider, WI4, 3 pitches, is on the far left of the Thunderdome. It is a bit longer of a hike from the lake but the route is a stellar moderate! Scott Coldiron climbing the crux 2nd pitch of Nightrider, WI4. Brian White starting up the classic Toast, WI5 on the 2nd Tier. The ice beyond him is the route Cheedo, WI3-4. Zack Turner on the sharp end during the first ascent of Grease Rat, WI4....a really fun route on the 3rd Tier. Matt Cornell working through the crux of Sarcophagus of Lies, M6. The route continues up and left until you can stem between the rock and the ice dagger above. This is a stellar line on the 3rd Tier with "quality climbing as good as Come and Get It" according to Matt. Brian White putting up a short route called Mystery Gas, WI3 on the 3rd Tier. Syd Atencio and Nate Kenney climbing up Devil's Brownies, WI4, on the Three Tiers. Granite Lake and the surrounding basin in the background. I think one of my favorite things about the climbing here is the views....it just never gets old!! Every time I walk across Granite Lake I have to pause and just look up. Hopefully this will get some people stoked about climbing up there because it is a beautiful spot with fantastic climbing. Happy to answer any beta questions or run them through Scott. Gear Notes: Ice screws......rock gear for mixed routes. Approach Notes: All climbs are best accessed from the Granite Lake trailhead. In winter it is a 9 mile hike/skin into the lake with about 2000 ft of elevation gain. Count on 4-9 hours depending on conditions. From downtown Libby, take Highway 2 east one mile to Shaugnessy road. Take a right and follow this for .7 miles before turning left onto Snowshoe road. After 1/2 mile take a right turn onto Granite Lake road. In .8 miles stay left on Granite Lake road and continue for 4 miles. This is the end of the pavement and where the snowplows stop in the winter. The Granite Lake trailhead is still another 3 miles but you will have to walk/skin/snowmobile that distance in the winter. There is usually plenty of room to park several cars just be mindful not to block the road or any of the neighbor’s driveways. From here follow the snow covered road for 3 miles to the actual Granite Lake trailhead. The road is mostly level with a few gradual climbs (400 feet of elevation gain in 3 miles). From the trailhead hike/skin the trail 6 miles up to the lake.

I finally took the time to sit down and read your report and watch the videos. Wow, what a fantastic climb!! It is so cool that you were able to get such great footage. And that natural ice tunnel....looks like one of the most memorable pitches ever! Thanks for sharing and congrats on the climb.

Wait the way I read it the photo contest ended on March 2 at 10am. That was before you even posted this...... "Here's all of the "People's Choice" finalists in the Verti Call Photo Contest! The photo with the most amount of "likes" by Mar 2nd @ 10am EST wins the People's Choice! Prize is two Grandwall ice screws from Verti Call. Good luck!"

I have seen 4 or 5 for sale in the last year. You just have to keep your eyes open.....Mountain Project, Craiglist and Facebook Marketplace. Good luck...they are worth the effort to get one!

Really cool idea. The joker replacement is awesome! The piton is definitely my favorite suit. I am definitely going to order up a set!

Yea there is an insane amount of potential especially if you get a good cold year! If you want a copy of any of the pictures you are in, just send me an email (westbnsf@gmail.com).

Figured I would post an update (May 4, 2019) on current conditions for those interested. The bad news.....there is little to no ice on the N. Face of Dragontail. I was really hoping that the freeze/thaw from the last couple weeks would work it's magic. The ice runnels on TC look like rock. We hiked in to climb Gerber Sink but it was mostly rock with just a couple of snowfields. Ended up doing the Northeast Couloir on Colchuck as a consolation prize. It was steep snow, even unconsolidated in places which was surprising. When the route cuts left at the top we took the smaller left hand couloir variation. It had a couple of easy ice steps and 1 short rock step.....better than the snowy slog up the right hand option. Came down the Colchuck Glacier which was super straight forward and actually quite soft in the afternoon....it was a nice 2500 ft glissade. Other notes.....the road is still gated. In fact there is still 4-6 inches of snow across the road for about 100 yards near the trailhead. Other than that it was a clear road. The trail is almost all snow starting right from the trailhead. In the morning the snow was hard and walking was easy. On the way down we were happy we had carried up snowshoes so we could avoid the postholing. We rode bikes from the truck to the trailhead which meant after our long day we didn't have to walk that road down. Trisha halfway up the Northeast couloir on Colchuck. Current view (5/4/19) of the N. Face of Dragontail.

Hmm...I have never noticed that issue but you bring up a great point. I have definitely ridden a lot more in Spantiks than Nepals. I also think your suggestion to just walk is a great one. Especially to many of the popular routes there is a great boot pack this time of year. Here are a couple comparison pics. On the Spantik you can see the highback doesn't quite come to the top of the boot so definitely not a problem. On the Nepal it does come up higher than the boot by about 1 1/2". Again I have never noticed my calfs being sore or rubbing but I also have only done short decents like Aasgard Pass, Mt. Adams lower mountain and stuff in the Cabinets with them. I wonder if you could just flip the lever on the highback to give you more room? You would sacrifice performance but then again we are talking about efficiency of snow travel. This picture shows the lever flipped which creates several inches of room. Also I believe that Burton made a Lo-Back Binding that was significantly less than a traditional highback. Not sure they still do but maybe you could find an old used one.

I have had good luck with my mountaineering boots on a splitboard. If you get a small enough binding a La Sportiva Nepal works very well (definitely put in a dozen or more trips with that setup). I even used La Sportiva Spantiks with my splitboard up on Denali. I wouldn't want to ride those in the resort but as you stated you aren't looking for beautiful backcountry riding just efficient snow travel.

Overall was there much ice on the face? It seems like it took awhile to warm up this year and then suddenly freezing levels are super high. I am curious whether there will be enough freeze thaw to actually get good ice conditions on the north face of Dragontail this year.

Thanks for the post! It brought back lots of memories from my trip of the SGC several years back. I also thought those West Ridge mixed pitches were some of the best I have climbed......so much rime ice! Propagating cracks on the Sherpa though....scary! Nice job!

Devon, you might try calling them. Sometimes they have certain size packs actually "in stock". Otherwise I would recommend both Hyperlite Mountain Gear and Mountain Laurel Designs. Both companies make good quality rugged packs that are super light and very simple. I don't know if either company makes a lid though so if that is a must it might be a deal breaker. And neither company has quite as many attachment points and straps to change the setup as CiloGear. You might try contacting one of these 2 listing from Mountain Project as well. It is the ski version of the 40B so slightly different. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116390470/fs-cilogear-40b-ski-pack-180-shipped Maybe they would be willing to outright sell it instead of trade? https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116203903/wtt-cilogear-worksack-40b-large-for-cilogear-worksack-3030-45-or-60-large

No problem Wayne. I was glad you guys got to climb it this year....it was so fat and awesome!! Nice running into you guys out there, and I am sure we will see you again in the future.

I knew you guys had been over there but didn't know the name. Thanks for the information Vern! Do you know if it is rated a 4 or a 5?

Trip: Banks Lake, WA - Zenith, Emerald, Cable, Razorblades plus others Trip Date: 03/03/2019 to 03/14/2019 Trip Report: With reports of an incredible season at Banks Lake, my partner (Joe Peters) and I decided we needed to get over there. We drove over on March 3 to find a good place to set up a camp. Joe had to finish a couple things at work, but my wife Trisha came out to climb for the 1st two days until Joe got back. Then Joe and I were able to spend another 9 days climbing some of the wildest ice I have ever been on. Banks lake is that good!! I didn't list any grades in this trip report. Banks is a funny place and I found that grades were tricky to judge. In the end I decided that Wayne Wallace was right when he said..."Grades don't matter, everything here is hard." We camped in Joe's tipi tent which is pretty luxurious complete with stove for heat and drying gear. The best spot we found to camp was right across from Salt and Pepper. Camping limit is 15 days, it was free, and there was a toilet. We were able to sit in camp and stare up at Salt and Pepper every evening. Evening light in our camp. The view of Salt and Pepper from camp. (photo credit Joe Peters) Living it up inside the tipi. With that stove we could be sitting around in a t-shirt. It was absolutely essential for drying out boots and other wet gear after climbing every day. Here is a brief overview of our trip. 3/4 - Peewees #2, 3, 4, 6, and 7 3/5 - Climb below Emerald, Trotsky's Folly and Trotsky's Revenge (also called Phase Transition) 3/6 - Peewees #1 and 5 3/7 - The Emerald and Satan's Panties (also called Absent Minded Professor) 3/8 - Tea 'n' the Sahara 3/9 - The Cable and H2O2 3/10 - Unnamed climb Butch Cassidy in Moses Coulee 3/11 - Bombs over Old Baghdad (the climb across Banks lake at MP3) 3/12 - Shitting Razorblades 3/13 - Salt and Pepper 3/14 - Zenith I will just let the pictures tell the rest of story with a few captions. Peewee's Playground. I referenced these from right to left starting with 1 and ending with 8. Me leading Peewee #4 on the 1st day. A great place to start getting used to Banks ice! (photo credit Trisha Thorman) Craig Pope had just put up this line which he thought was probably an FA. It transitioned from the ice through the rock and out to the hanging dagger. It is Peewee #2 and he named it Turn the Page. This is a couple guys from MT climbing it on TR in the beautiful afternoon sun. The next day Trisha and I climbed this little flow. It was fantastic steep climbing that eased off about half way up. It is right off the road at the Emerald Pullout. It is amazing to me that there are so many of these lines that don't have names. Anywhere else and these good pitches of ice would all be named! Trisha doing a TR lap on Trotsky's Revenge. Day 3 Trisha headed back home and Joe arrived. Here Joe is arriving at the top of the fantastic Peewee #1. This is Satan's Panties (also called Absent Minded Professor). Rumor is that it hasn't come in for multiple years. It was a really fun multi-tiered climb that was a great warmup for the bigger climbs at Banks. The Emerald sits tucked up in a small valley above the main Banks Lake proper. It was a fantastic steep pitch of excellent climbing. It even faced north so it didn't get any sun to ruin the ice! Me leading the Emerald. (photo credit Joe Peters) Joe topping out on the Emerald at the end of a great day! With a cloudy day we decided to brave the lake and head across for some of the bigger lines. Thankfully the lake ice was thick and solid with no noises. The climb directly above me is Tea 'n' the Sahara. The one to my right is unknown.....it never came in this year unfortunately (or at least the dagger never touched down). (Photo credit Joe Peters). A closer view of Tea 'n' the Sahara. This was definitely my favorite climb of the trip. It consisted of 4 steep pitches each about 90-120 feet in length. The ice was typical Banks with plenty of excavating but the position and length of the climbing make it a classic for sure. Joe climbing the final steep 4th pitch. Looking back up at pitch 4 of Tea 'n' the Sahara from rappel. We were able to rappel the entire route with 2 rope stretching 70m rappels......take 70m ropes! (photo credit Joe Peters) The Cable....it is such an amazing, steep, crazy, gymnastic, different route. An absolute must do at Banks. Here Brian Williams is a little past halfway up the long pitch. Me leading the Cable. It is so good......just go do it! (photo credit Joe Peters) The Cable in the setting sun. Next we went to climb H2O2. Here are a couple of unknown climbers on it the night before. Yet another great pitch of climbing right next to the road. Here Joe is putting up H2O2 in the evening sun. The following day we drove over to Moses Coulee. Unfortunately Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were pretty wrecked by the sun. This is an unnamed climb on the same road about 1/2 mile before Butch Cassidy. After reviewing the guidebook and talking with several other people this is actually Butch Cassidy. The climb between Butch and Sundance Kid is unnamed (although climbed). The WA ice guidebook has the wrong mileage to these climbs. Looking up at Unnamed route Butch Cassidy was awe inspiring. There were so many hanging daggers through the steep upper roofs. I gave it a go on lead but ended up sitting on a screw in the roof. I found out I wasn't fit enough to lock off on a tool and clean hanging daggers for that long. Still an awesome experience! Me approaching the large ice roof of hanging icicles. (Photo credit Joe Peters) The next day was cloudy so we headed back across the lake. This climb is right across from MP3. It isn't in the WA ice book and nobody seems to know what it is called. After staring at it disappearing into the fog above we decided to call it Stairway to Heaven. (Edit: sounds like it is called Bombs over old Baghdad) Here is Joe leading up pitch 2. The next day was time to get on Razorblades. This is a climb that had been on my list to do for a while and it didn't disappoint. Some years the first pitch isn't in or so thin that you can't protect it well. This year it was fat! Me leading up the crux first pitch of Razorblades. I don't think I have ever climbed ice by pulling on ice mushrooms with my hands instead of swinging my tools into the ice....fun but funky! (Photo credit Joe Peters) Finally after staring at Salt and Pepper every night for a week, we decided we needed to go and do it. The guidebook made the 1st pitch sound hard and scary. It climbs the loose rock on the left and traverses up the snow ramp to the ice. It was loose, but I found a decent pin and a couple cam placements. You definitely don't need a #3 C4. I would take a couple of KB pins and a set of cams from BD .3 to #1. The crux step of rock is easy 5th but it is loose and a fall would be very bad. Joe climbing up the steep ice of Salt and Pepper. It was a fantastic climb with big exposure. This is looking straight down for about 300 feet. We wrapped up our trip with Zenith. A fitting end to a fantastic trip. It was very fat this year but still steep and long! (Photo credit Joe Peters) Joe and I on Zenith. Being a roadside crag, many times a few people stop and watch. Sue Tebow was one such person but she was kind enough to leave us her contact information so we could get a couple pictures she took. It is always a treat to get both the leader and the follower in the same picture. Thanks Sue! (Photo credit Sue Tebow) A final parting shot of the huge deathcicle above Zenith. It was so fascinating to look up at but we wasted no time in getting out of there. It consisted of a thin hollow tube of ice that extended 30 feet or so below the cliff. Out of the center poured a huge amount of water. (Photo credit Joe Peters) Gear Notes: Ice screws and 70m ropes Approach Notes: Short and easy unless you are crossing the lake!