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Everything posted by mthorman

  1. [TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 04/05/2019

    Thanks for the post! It brought back lots of memories from my trip of the SGC several years back. I also thought those West Ridge mixed pitches were some of the best I have climbed......so much rime ice! Propagating cracks on the Sherpa though....scary! Nice job!
  2. wanted to buy cilogear SMALL 40B worksac

    Devon, you might try calling them. Sometimes they have certain size packs actually "in stock". Otherwise I would recommend both Hyperlite Mountain Gear and Mountain Laurel Designs. Both companies make good quality rugged packs that are super light and very simple. I don't know if either company makes a lid though so if that is a must it might be a deal breaker. And neither company has quite as many attachment points and straps to change the setup as CiloGear. You might try contacting one of these 2 listing from Mountain Project as well. It is the ski version of the 40B so slightly different. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116390470/fs-cilogear-40b-ski-pack-180-shipped Maybe they would be willing to outright sell it instead of trade? https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116203903/wtt-cilogear-worksack-40b-large-for-cilogear-worksack-3030-45-or-60-large
  3. No problem Wayne. I was glad you guys got to climb it this year....it was so fat and awesome!! Nice running into you guys out there, and I am sure we will see you again in the future.
  4. I knew you guys had been over there but didn't know the name. Thanks for the information Vern! Do you know if it is rated a 4 or a 5?
  5. Wow...great job! Taking smash and grab to the next level! Awesome pictures....and what a great route!!
  6. Banks lake climb identification

    Sorry I can help with identification, but I am curious how you felt the crossing was....spooky or pretty solid?
  7. review Sleeping bag for the cascades

    I have used the FF Osprey UL 30 for quite a few years. The Osprey has served me well throughout the Cascades in Spring, Summer, and Fall. I have pushed it down to 10F several times and been alright (it is custom to a 25F bag...see below). It has held up super well, packs down really small and barely weighs more than my big down puffy! Even took it up on Denali and doubled it with a Marmot 0F. I also own a -10 Eider and would definitely recommend FF bags. FYI you can have Feathered Friends "overfill" a sleeping bag to increase a rating. My Osprey is actually overfilled with a couple more ounces to make it a 25F bag instead of a 30F. Just call the Seattle store and ask them about it.
  8. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    I had friends out there over the weekend. They said many routes were in and some even fat.
  9. Denali food planning

    As others have said, you can eat really well on the West Butt. I definitely took my fair share of dehydrated meals but on those weather or rest days it was nice to cook something good. My biggest recommendation is take a frying pan and lid which you can convert into a makeshift oven. I made pizza, cookies, and biscuits in there not to mention frying all sorts of stuff. Well worth the extra weight. You can't really have too many tortilla shells or cheese in my opinion. Oh and if you can figure out a way to get crackers up to 14k camp without them crumbling you can trade it for just about anything. Last piece of advice is take food you like....duh but just because somebody says x, y, or z is a great food with lots of calories doesn't mean you will like it. Try it at home first, you don't want to cart the weight all the way up to 14k camp only to realize you don't like it. Here is my spreadsheet. Overall I was aiming for 3000-3500 calories. I thought that worked out well for me. Breakfast Lunch Dinner Extra *Also not on the above list was 2 tubes of biscuits, 3 tubes of pringles, cookie dough, and hard candy. **A lot of those dinners were dehydrated as I wasn't going to cook up beans for a chili! The extras soups I mostly made for a hot meal mid day and the puddings I made into hot chocolate drinks either morning or night. ***A "snack bag" was the following all cut up into tiny bit sized squares, mixed together and covered in powdered sugar (made it easy to melt in mouth if frozen, and the chocolate didn't make as much of a mess if left in the sun.) 1 of each: Cliff bar, protein bar, Milky Way, Snickers, and granola bar.
  10. I have about 5 years of pretty hard use on multiple pieces and they are all full of holes and in need of replacement. I would be pysched to get 10 years!
  11. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    I haven't been out to Banks yet, but judging from Spokane temps I doubt there is much yet. We have been highs in the upper 30s or lower 40s and lows just barely below freezing until late last week. The last several days have been colder finally but things definitely seem to be getting a slow start this year.
  12. Awesome report! That climb has been on my list for awhile. The car incident reminds me of last winter when we came out from 3 nights backcountry skiing to an empty parking lot (truck was stolen). Yea the RCMP said the same thing..."It happens all the time up there".....and I was like "maybe you should think about putting up some cameras or patrolling it more often". Thankfully I got it back a couple weeks later though.
  13. Wooden training ice tools - not thei Dryice ones!

    Found them randomly on Instagram. https://www.hexclimbing.com/
  14. Wooden training ice tools - not thei Dryice ones!

    The only other option I have seen is this one. It isn't a different ax but lets you use your normal tools with these picks. I haven't tried it personally but know someone who has and liked them. https://www.escapeclimbing.com/product/dry-tool-picks/
  15. Rainier Infinity Loop: new FKT

    Thanks for posting Scott! And congrats on one big adventure.....man running until you are sweaty and then sleeping until your cold sounds awful!
  16. [TR] Mount Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 05/28/2018

    Nice job and thanks for the report! It sounds like you guys had a fun time up there. Crazy how much drier things are this year.
  17. Mt Adams approach this spring

    Mt. Adams can still be climbed in a day trip even if the road is closer lower down. I did it several years ago in March from one of the lower snow parks. It makes for a much longer day but the plus is fewer people! Of course you could easily turn it into an overnight or even a 3 day. It really depends on what you want. If you are looking for good skiing then you might be happier just staying slightly lower as the upper mountain can get pretty hard and windswept....obviously condition dependent. I think it is worth the effort and I honestly had a lot more fun being the only person on the mountain than when I went back later in the season and walked up the ant line of people.
  18. for sale Free Climbing Maps (Rainier, Baker, Shuksan)

    This looks really good! Thanks so much. I sent you a PM.
  19. Man looks like a beautiful trip! I love all the great pictures.
  20. Just did this route last weekend and it was awesome! We climbed it on Saturday of Labor Day weekend and never saw another party......didn't know that was possible up on WA Pass! We followed the beta in Blake's new book Cascades Rock. I found the topo in the book to be very accurate. We followed it pretty much exactly as described and found the belay's to be great locations and rope drag manageable. The quality of the rock was very good with the exception of the the middle of pitch 4 through a couple of roofs. We were able to trundle all the loose blocks in that area but there is still some crumbly rock. I climbed up past the Zebra wall all the way to the top roof and then traversed out which was awesome but felt more 5.10 than 5.9. The next pitch up the open book hand crack was the money pitch and the chimney off-width was thought provoking. Honestly there weren't any "dud" pitches and the climbing was fairly sustained at grade. What surprised me most was how much slabby face climbing there was on the 1st couple pitches. Seriously this is a classic climb! Approach Beta When you are following the old road don't cut up the hill at all the rock carins. We did on the way and the trail quickly disappeared and left us in thick brush and much too far climber's left. Instead just keep following the trail until you reach a creek. Before crossing the creek turn left uphill and follow it up to the basin above. Keep the creek close by on the right until you reach the open treed area. Passed this you reach a large slide alder section from old avalanches. If you stay right on the edge there is a pretty decent trail that you can follow all the way up to just below the boulder field. A few more easy boulder hoping and you are right at the base of the climb with very little bushwacking. We found this on the way down and it was WAY better than the route we came up. Decent Beta Once above the chimney on the last "real" pitch there is still a full rope length of 4th class scrambling to the route. Make sure you go all the way to the big flat slab before trying to rappel down to the right. We knocked all the numerous loose blocks off the rappel and the anchor cord looked in good condition. From the end of the rappel we hiked up the gully a hundred feet then crossed it on a decent ledge to the treed ridge. From here it was an easy hike down the ridge contouring skier's left to the main low angle gully system. No nasty scree down climbing necessary.
  21. Looks like a really fun trip and you guys had excellent weather! I really need to get a trip into the Pickets. And awesome sighting of the wolverine!!
  22. Paradise to Camp Muir

    I guess I am one of the slow climbers then because all 3 times I have hiked up to Muir with an overnight pack my times have been closer to the 5 hour mark at a casual pace.
  23. boston basin conditions

    I just got back from Eldorado yesterday. The snow line is somewhere between 4800 feet and 5000 feet on west aspects. Lots of snow from there up. Freezing levels were between 7k and 9k but we didn't take any kind of flotation and were fine. Definitely would have been faster with skis though. I have a friend who was in Boston Basin last weekend and he said the river crossings were covered in snow and easy to cross. I assume things would be pretty similar although it has definitely melting fast up high this week. It was forecasted to rain 2.5 inches of rain up to 9000ft on Thursday and believe me when I say it did on Eldorado at least!! Looking at Forbidden from Eldorado the west ridge looked pretty melted out. I am sure there might be some snow still lingering in a few places but it looked to be mostly all rock.
  24. ATC Guide mode in crevasse haul system?

    Link works fine this time. I like the looks of that. Interesting that it fits webbing too.