mthorman

Wow that is impressive! Did anyone else notice the caption on the 2nd photo? Since when is Eldorado a "Chilliwack Peak"?

Yes it definitely looks pretty melted out already. This is similar timing to when we did it back in 2014 but in general I think those routes are coming into shape earlier and earlier now. Go give it a go in April and let us know how it goes!

Thanks for writing this up, it was a good read. I have thought about the Price Glacier route for awhile but this report makes me want to go and do it! My partner and I were the "two climbers" you saw camped at the base of the summit pyramid who descended the Upper Curtis at the end of your Day 5. We climbed the Northwest Arayete on your Day 4 and camped near the base of the summit pyramid. Then we climbed the summit block on your Day 5 trying to follow the old Labor Day route (wouldn't recommend) and came down the standard Fisher Chimney's route. Sorry about all your navigation troubles....I can see how if you hadn't been down the Fisher Chimney's route it would be hard to know where to turn off because the main track up there goes down the Sulphide. Good job on holding it all together through the epic and figuring it out even if it took an extra day or 2!

There are several steep snow traverses and the later in the year the worse the conditions typically (harder snow/ice). I did it in late July and was very happy with my light mountain boots and contact strap crampons and 1 ax. If I were going in late June or early July I would probably consider just using approach shoes. Anytime in August and I would definitely bring some kind of light boot.

Wow...I initially was led to believe this was a super obvious error in judgement based on the avalanche forecast. But after reading that report, I would say that was not the case. I could easily see myself and many of my partners climbing that route or something similar on a 2,2,1 day. It is a good reminder that even a low avy day can have serious consequences. My condolences to all those affected.

Avy hazard is pretty minimal. There are a couple of avy paths on the approach to the lake that can be avoided if the danger is high. The approach from the lake to the 3 tiers is no issue and there is no overhead hazard on the 3 Tiers or Thunderdome routes. The only place around the climbing areas where we have seen any avalanches is in extreme conditions in the main gully between the 3 Tiers and the Thunderdome. You would need to go a little way up this gully to access routes like Mad Max or Road Warrior. Also there is good skiing in the bowls around/above the lake but those are definitely in avy terrain.

Look into Granite Lake ice climbing in the Cabinets Mts of Montana. It is a fat year this year and typically the end of March is pretty good in there (baring we don't get a crazy warm up in the next couple weeks).

Nice! I haven't been as active as normal on Strava recently but great idea of getting a group going there.

What a great trip report!! That looks like such a fun moderate climb too. Although I think I would take Tyler up on the boat transportation if I ever went. Nice job finishing it up and having all the necessary stuff to ensure a late night didn't turn into an epic. Can you comment a little more on the pitch count and individual difficulties? Mostly WI3 with a couple harder pitches....or easy first half steeper 2nd? Great job putting up a big line.......and some say that all ice is crowded and has been climbed.

I was at Banks lake earlier this week (we climbed Peewees 3, 4, and 5). I didn't get out to Moses Coulee or south towards Park/Blue/Lenore Lakes so unknown out there. The weather is looking good for continued ice formation. There was snow on the ground and plenty of running water everywhere so just need time at freezing temperatures. Oh and the lake hasn't even started to freeze over really. Absent Professor - Trying but not much ice The Cable - top half is forming up nicely but needs a lot more to be "in". H2O2 - looked climbable although probably full value in its current shape Salt and Pepper - nothing More Banks Ice Climbs (MP 9) - several of these climbs are formed but with horrible or nonexistent top outs. The one exception is the longer WI4 "corner route" which is the right hand climb of the bunch. It looked good to go. Brush Climbs - Getting close Razorblades - no ice The Emerald - no ice MP 14 climbs - several climbs are trying but still need time, nothing really close Zenith - fully formed but the bottom connection point looks very thin and could be quick spicy. Another couple weeks and it should be great! Peewees - Most of them aren't really that good yet. The exception was #3 which we climbed and found really good quality and plenty of ice. We also climbed #4 and #5, both of which had quite a bit of thin shell and then ended in very desperate rock or grass pulling above where the ice ended but before any kind of tree/bush anchor. Trotsky's - Folly is in but looks sun affected. Revenge is in with some overhead hazard. Punchbowl - in but very nasty overhead hazard currently. Last Lap of the day on Peewees #3! Zenith current as of 12/12/2022.

This is a bit ridiculous and very limiting. It is going to be pretty hard to try and get any kind of winter ascent of Rainier now.

Haha...Adrien is missing more than just a foot. He is an above the knee amputee and climbs like a boss. I am not sure how he does it all because when he climbs, he "locks out" his knee in a straight position! Trying climbing ice, or rock or even aid when you can't bend your knee to step up. Sorry Adrien but I had to brag on you a bit bud!

Heck yea dude!! That is probably my favorite route I have done on the Capitan. Congrats on the solo effort! Oh and nice to see you had a #6 for the Bismark pitch....I was a little mad at myself for only bringing a 5!!

Sweet....it was the highest priority last summer but could never find a pysched partner. I will definitely be getting in there sometime though. Cool to see people putting stuff up in there!

Nice job on finishing this up! It is cool to see new development going on in this area even if the routes are a bit above my current pay grade!

Great writing! Nice to seem more development around the pass. This looks like a great addition!

I think we would have liked to go up and left like you said there but it looked very blank in terms of protection. Maybe in retrospect we could have belayed pitch 2 short and then just runout the blank slabby terrain at an easy 5th class "R" rating and made it into the upper dihedral? The Arayete was pretty good. I really liked the first couple pitches because the rock quality was good. And if you have an eye for the weird pro and a nut tool I felt like the runouts weren't as bad as I was expecting. But above the 4th class pitch 5 the rock quality deteriorates. Pitch 7 in particular was bad. A foothold sheared off while leading and I somehow saved myself on my handhold. My partner also broke off a foothold on that pitch on TR and pulled off a flake handhold. The crux for me was the beginning of Pitch 7 climbing up the "overhangs" which are mostly loose flakes without any solid pro. I think Blake really hit the nail on the head when he called the route "a 5.8 climb for a 5.10 leader". Oh and we accessed from the right side ledge as going around to the left side of the toe looked pretty impossible (or at least very convoluted). The right side access was a very easy step to the rock and then a fun and short pitch of 5.7 to gain the arete at what looked like the beginning of pitch 1.

Digging up an old thread...Sol, I can't draw a line on where the Labor Route is, but I can draw a line where it isn't! We climbed the Arayete this week and continued on to the top of Shuksan. We attempted to climb the Labor Day route but in retrospect I don't think it was. We began about 300ft north of the Hourglass feature as according to the CAG. It is the main dihedral and the only thing that made sense. The first pitch was a continue crack with a bit of laybacking at the top. However from there the corners above grew progressively more loose. Eventually we found ourselves climbing a resemblance of the Jenga game. Often pulling off rocks and chucking them out away from the wall so as not to accidentally kick them off. The climbing was slow, up to 5.9+/5.10a and very loose. Four pitches up my partner took a whip when his foothold broke, and we decided it wasn't worth continuing. So 2 pitches of traversing right and slightly up brought us to the ridge just above the hourglass and we scrambled down to the snow on the back side. So just wondering if anyone has any more info or has climbed the Labor Day route? The red line is what we did which I would NEVER recommend to anyone. We passed 2 old rappel anchors in the first 200ft and should have gotten a clue about what was to come.

Love all the pictures!! Shuksan is a beautiful mountain.

Sweet TR....thanks for writing it up and for all the pictures!

Amazing report and congrats on a great and successful trip!! I loved all reading all the details. It sounds about as chaotic and messy as I thought 8000m climbing would be, but you guys timed the crowds very well.

Nice!! Looks like you guys had great weather!

Trip: Selkirks - Lionshead - Circle of Life 5.11b/c, C1 FA Trip Date: 08/08/2022 Trip Report: I just finished putting up a project I have been working for the last couple years. It is on the north face of Lionshead up in Selkirk mountains of northern ID. I first heard about the potential line years ago but wasn't climbing hard enough at the time. Then 2 years ago I started investigating and scrubbing it. Finally after many hours of scrubbing it came together this weekend. I do want to thank the numerous friends that I dragged up there who patiently belayed me and also spent hours cleaning and scrubbing the route. The climb is 5 pitches long and contains a lot of really good 5.10 and 5.11 crack climbing. There is 10 feet of pretty blank rock that earns the C1 rating. It is straight forward aiding on a cam and a couple of fixed nuts. For those inclined to try and free it, I would guess it goes at mid to hard 5.12?? So go get the FFA and let me know! The crux pitch would be a classic at most crags complete with really good 5.11 finger crack to some steep laybacking/hands. The descent is to rappel the route which helps make the route feel less committing, and anything in the 5.11 range can be pulled through (although that would be most of pitch 3!). Pitch 1 - 5.9 Pitch 2 - 5.10b Pitch 3 - 5.11b/c, C1 Pitch 4 - 5.10+ Pitch 5 - 5.11b I personally would say it is on par with the classics at WA Pass for quality of climbing although it contains a little more lichen due to lack of traffic currently. I would definitely recommend doing it. The north face of Lionshead in the evening light. The line is marked in red. Starting up pitch 1. Looking up the start of Pitch 2. Starting up the crux Pitch 3. Looking back down the top half of the crux pitch 3. Such good climbing!! Nearing the top of pitch 4. The crux 5.11 roof on pitch 5. Gear Notes: Doubles from .2 to #3 with triples in the .3 to .75 and a single #4. A single set of nuts (offsets more useful than regular). Also a .3/.4 and .4/.5 offset cam come in very handy. 2 ropes for the rappel. Approach Notes: Take the normal approach to Lionshead. The route is on the north face about 100 ft to the right of the route Lion Tamer.

Thanks for a great write up and beautiful pictures. I really love that area of the Cascades. Frostbite looks like an interesting route!

Yea, there is a reason I haven't been super stoked on the pass in recent years. This year I was excited for a trip because I finally felt ready for some of the 5.11s (which I felt were actually pretty good quality). And yes there are lots of other areas with better sustained climbing on good granite. I have spent a fair amount of time in Yosemite wall climbing but I think I need to visit the Sierras for the 5.10 and 5.11 climbing!