dave schultz

Hey - I'm also looking for a partner for both Friday and Saturday night. Weather looks great for the whole weekend. My initial list of ideas are: Shuksan, Rainier, Buckner, Ice (anywhere, up to WI4+), Joffre/Matier (in BC). I'd be open to anything if I get no interest on my own advertisement, but would prefer to get one of the above listed ski objectives. What is you method of travel? Skis? Snowshoes? Dave

Hi, Looking for a partner in crime for the weekend. The weather looks great across the board. I have a few ideas, and would be open for others: 1) Shuksan, probably via the shuksan arm to set a high camp, tag the summit and ski some of the lines, Friday and Saturday night out. 2) Rainier, summit via Fuhrer Finger / Kautz, definitely both Friday and Saturday night 3) Ice at Strobach, Friday and Saturday night (climbing on Saturday and Sunday) 4) Joffre Peak, Mount Matier, both in BC. Big couloirs. 5) Mount Buckner, N Face and N Couloir, great lines, but a big approach and a high risk of not actually getting to ski the objectives, but it would be a great adventure regardless. 6) Any ice anywhere (follow anything, lead WI4+). I am in Everett and can get started at about 3pm. Avi, glacier, crevasse, WFR, WI4+ lead, beer, big truck, juiced to get out. Let me know if any of these ideas spark your interest. Dave

I might be able to swing a trip to MT over the MLK weekend. Leave Friday afternoon, climb Sat-Mon, and drive back Monday night in time for work Tuesday. I agree, that might be the best bet.

Looking for a partner for Wed 9 Jan. Looks like it'll be pretty warm on Tuesday, with a healthy amount of snow Tuesday and Wednesday. I'd like to get on any ice route, but not sure about Tuesday's warm temps ... Could also do some backcountry skiing at the passes (never skied there before) or would love to get back up to the Baker area, but not sure about the avi conditions ... Would be willing to give The Tooth a shot in these conditions if anyone was game ... I could get started Tuesday night if that seems like the best course of action, but would prefer a simple day trip. I'll be coming from Everett and can drive, have a full rack, avi gear, WFR, beer, etc Let's get out, Dave

Tuesday's temps will probably play havoc on all our hopes for ice ...

I've never heard of a flexible thermos, since the thermos needs that vacuum insulation property in order to maintain the hot or cold beverage. I have put pretty hot beverages into a platypus with no problems, and then they compress down as you consume the fluid. For resort skiing a thermos is not too big to sit in your pack. For backcountry skiing, a thermos is required since having your water freeze out there really sucks.

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What a great end of the year thread. This is my first complete calender year of climbing - so REALLY hard to pick out a top 5; definitely cannot put them in order. So, in no particular order (listed in chronological order): 1. Mt Washington, NH - solo ski mountaineering via Huntington Ravine (Central and Diagonal Gully x 2). Complete day of skinning, ice climbing, rappelling, and tight couloir skiing. Not to mention bluebird day with temps in the upper 40s (climbing in a t-shirt). 2. Modern Times, Gunks, NY - first really awesome route, something you look at and are like, "holy shit" (older books rate it at 5.8+ and one newer book gives it mid 5.10) 3. Thin Slice, City of Rocks, ID - first 5.10 trad lead. 4. DC single push from Paradise - though without reaching the summit; first climb in WA, partner was having problems with AMS and pulled the plug at 12,500 feet; first night spent in the state was overnight on the climb 5. CNR of Stuart - incredible alpine route, first grade IV (barely beats out Backbone on Dragontail and Outer Space at Snow Creek)(the descent via Cascadian Couloir was terrible though, and almost makes the climb not worth it) Of Only WA climbs: 1. CNR on Stuart (see above) 2. DC Route (see above) 3. Outer Space - almost crag-like route, with 5.10b variation start 4. Coleman Deming - first volcano summit 5. Beckey Route - first route in WA (after Rainier)

Haha ... maybe a sleeping bag for two? http://www.backcountry.com/big-agnes-king-solomon-sleeping-bag-15-degree-down - maybe a little two warm, but you can always leave it unzipped. Protection is for people who ask questions ... just don't ask the question

Not sure about my January schedule yet, but would love to get out over that MLK weekend. I would have 19-21 off, if I don't have a weekend shift and could start driving Friday in the afternoon. Would love to carpool, I would be coming from Everett. I am a safe and conservative climber, especially in ice. Can lead WI4 and would LOVE to take the tools out for a walk .... I'll post when my schedule is more well known. Dave

The BD Bullet is 18l, but has a zipper (though small and only about halfway down) and compresses really small (stuff it in your bigger approach pack). It's my go to pack for day multi-pitch cragging. The Arcteryx Silo 18 is also small, but much more rigid and a lot stronger than the bullet. It's my go to alpine pack since I can leave the rope coiled on the outside (pack strong enough to support it) and get the gear inside it, then I am climbing with only an 18l pack. I used this system on Dragontail (22hr day C2C on backbone ridge) and on Stuart (24hr day C2C on Complete North Ridge). I had the Cierzo 25 and didn't like it, sent it right back to backcountry.com. Hope that helps a little bit.

Pics Added

Trip: Mt Rainier - Gibralter Leges Date: 12/28/2012 to 12/30/2012 Trip Report: The goal was a summit ski descent via the Gib Ledges, the standard winter route. Partner would be on snowshoes, and this would be my first time with a mixed snowshoes-ski party … more on that later. The plan was an overnight at Muir, summit with second night at Muir, then back down on Sunday. Saturday started off pretty late, with the idea that our speed would not be too slow and that a descent in the dark would be acceptable. This plan would give us a full night’s sleep, plus maximize what little acclimation would occur overnight. We headed up the Cowlitz at about 8am; budgeting about 2 hrs to the ledges, 1 hr for the ledges, 1 hr for the chute, and 2 hrs for the final snowfield to the summit (6hrs) with about 3 hrs of fluff before sunset. I felt this timing to be a little on the slow side for a ski plan, which I thought might be appropriate for a ski and snowshoe group – I was wrong, big-time wrong. We ended up taking a little over four hours to reach the ledge system (noon); and then after a long break moved about a third of the way across the ledge system by 1pm; with some quick math my estimate was about half of the actual time which meant summiting at about 8pm vice 2pm. After some chit chat about the situation we decided that it would be best to head back down to Muir and call it at that and made it back to Muir by 3pm. I broke trail cutting switchbacks up the Cowlitz all the way to the ledges; this may have been the wrong route selection, possibly heading along the ridge more climber’s left might have been better, but at the time it seemed you would be taking the same angle and similar distance. Weather started okay on Saturday morning, nothing great but nothing too bad; some wind but nothing your goggles and gor-tex can’t handle. I was able to use skis all the way to within about 100 feet of the ledges; when on ski crampons and balancing my way across final 100 feet of hard snow and ice part of my crampon broke (evidence discovered later) and I immediately started the accelerate down the slope. After about 100 feet I was finally able to arrest my fall with a single whippet (Austin had my second one). The avi conditions on the Cowlitz seemed calm: the slope appeared to be stable, no crack propagation, a breakable wind crust on top of powder made for slow and painful travel (at least for non-skiers), and frequent isolated columns yielded nothing of significance. On our way down the conditions deteriorated into a white out, and the skiing was not very enjoyable – in good visibility the Cowlitz would be a great 1500 feet of steep skiing. I stayed in my tent Saturday night, but Austin decided to head to the shelter. The freshly fallen and wind deposited snow forced me to shovel snow from away from the tent twice. Sunday started early enough to ski down at sunrise. SpO2 Sunday morning was 91%. The Muir snowfield was a mixed bag of powder pillows and breakable wind crust, probably pretty good shape compared to what it could have been. It made for sections of forgettable skiing and sections of outstanding turns. Saw a couple of groups on Muir snowfield, one was just out testing their gear another was on their way to Muir and then the summit. The weather was excellent. I was able to scout a couple super steep ski runs that I will have to take a look at from below before dropping in. The Fuhrer Finger across the Nisqually looked like a stellar route; the Turtle Snowfield also appears to be a great line with lots of smaller lines below it; the Gib-Nisqually chute (once crevasses are a little more filled in down low) also appears to be a stellar big route. Other items of note: I was the only person of at least ten who were heading for the summit on skis, I was very surprised to see such a high number of snowshoers going for the summit, especially with a high camp established only at Muir and not any higher. I was also very surprised at just how slow snowshoeing is, I had never been a part of a group with snowshoers and after this experience I don’t think I will ever try it again. Skiing is just so much faster and so much easier. Even though the summit ski descent did not happen many valuable lessons for future climbs were learned, and it just leaves the summit open for another attempt. All cooking was done inside the tent, using a jetboil SUMO, we used about 4oz of an 8oz canister. This was Austin’s first winter climb, my first winter climb besides Japan and the Northeast. The Nisqually River is close (if not ready) to be skied down to the bridge, giving 10k vert from the summit. Pics: Parking Lot at 11am Gib Rock from just above Paradise Gib Rock from Muir near dusk Tent with wind protection Heading up the Cowlitz, we were having some snowshoe technical difficulty at this point Looks like great skiing on the way down Taking a break about 1/3 of the way across the ledges; this was our high point Sunrise from Muir on Sunday Mt Adams at sunrise with Austin trying to get a head start Looking back up to Muir with my fresh tracks at dawn Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. I brought two screw and several pitons just in case I had an opportunity to place them. We never even broke out the rope. Approach Notes: Drive to Paradise?

I have Jan 1st through Jan 9th totally free. Looking go climb some objectives in the Snoqualmie Pass area and TC on Dragontail, or any other ice route that might be in shape enough to climb. Would also like to do some climbing and scouting in other areas of the N Cascades (Mount Buckner, Johannesburg to name a couple). Wouldn't mind climbing at Smith, either, if anyone is into cold, January rock. I'll be on Rainier this weekend, but would love to get something lined up for the new year before heading out Friday morning. Thanks! Dave

That tram is free, right?

Austin (see previous Rainier Winter Ascent forum) and I are planning on heading up to Paradise Friday morning after the gate opens and making camp Friday at Muir, with a summit bid on Saturday, and back down on Sunday with Monday and Tuesday as possible delay days. Looking for anyone who might be available want a go at Rainier in the Winter. Weather window looks pretty good Friday through Monday morning (as far as the mountain-forecast will show). This plan will obviously evolve as weather forecast gets closer, but as of now it looks doable. Let me know if you are interested, we are just trying to make it a little better with a group of three vice just the two of us. Thanks, Dave

Austin - ice trip might not happen ... Shoot me a PM and lets discuss your trip. Dave

How about leaving on the 27th and coming back on the 31st? Canadian Rockies or Montana?

Looking to climb ice the 28th-31st (get off work afternoon of the 27th and would be driving all night to climb on the 28th). I am able to drive as far as Montana or Canadian Rockies. Otherwise I will probably be in the area over the same period of time and would love to get into Snoqualmie Pass ice. Dave

Looking for anyone to make a trip east to find some good ice. I can leave around 3 or 4 in the afternoon from Everett on the 27th and would like to be back by midnight on the 31st. I can lead up to WI4 and have all the gear. Thanks Dave

Other advice ... to be honest if you're looking for other advice maybe a winter ascent might not be in you're cards ... and a guide might be a good route ... If you're a serious skier I would go get yourself an AT set up and leave all those climbers in the dust on the uphill and then you can rip it on the downhill. It's way more fun. Otherwise, I would go up there with a VERY fluid plan and be ready to modify it based on the actual gate opening time, how much new snow has actually fallen and how the wind has loaded it (for group speed consideration and avi consideration), as well as all the other possible variables. I assume you all are coming from sea level and thus are not acclimatized; but if the weather is good and the conditions are right, I would be prepared (as an option) to keep pushing as long as you can and possibly blowing past your original first night's camp location and possibly even summiting in a single push (highly unlikely, but in the right conditions, possible). Obviously if people start showing AMS I would reconsider, but if everyone is feeling good that's the best way to get up and back down. If you do a big push, make sure you stay hydrated or you will have big problems on the second half. The body can go a very long time as long as it's hydrated. That's probably good for now ...

Looking for a partner for something this Sunday and Monday. I get off work early Sunday AM (about 8am) and can go straight from work in Everett to wherever. Given the late start on Sunday I would like to make it an overnight and finish in the afternoon on Christmas Eve. Ski touring around Baker would be ideal. Would be able to climb ice if this week's cold weather forecast comes true, probably in the Snowqualmie Pass area as either a late starting day trip on Sunday or a more full day style trip on Monday (or an overnight?). Point is, I have Sunday and Monday off. I love skiing and ice climbing and would like to get out and get some. Not too particular on the route, just whatever the weather and avi conditions allow is what I will take ... otherwise it'll be off to the resort which is something I'd like to keep avoiding ... (I could also climb/ski over Christmas is you were game for it ... my wife would understand ...) Let me know if you're interested, Dave

I believe BD has some STS custom that is 125mm in width ... could you use those and just not trim them? I bet you would have enough grip simply because of the width. Buy them from backcountry.com and if they don't work you can send 'em right back. http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-ascension-custom-sts-climbing-skins

Hey - provided the terrain is skinnable (ie not too steep) skis are about 100x (actually, maybe a million times) better than snow shoes. I would not be opposed to being the only person on skis. But, as of now, I will actually be going to Montana to climb ice. If the ice trip falls apart then I would be able to slide right into a rainier trip. I am scheduled to be in MT until the 31st so I would have plenty of time if I ended up on Rainier. I will give a word of caution with Rainier: the gate is highly unreliable. It WILL close at 5pm to uphill traffic, so if you want to start on the 27th you will need to be past the gate before 5pm. It is also very fickle in terms of when it actually opens. My first experience this year had it opening at 1030am (not a ton of fresh new snow); second experience it was open when we arrived at 10am (learned lesson from the first time); third experience was the day after the second experiense and the gate never opened ... we had camped in the Tatoosh and needed a NPS escort to get off the mountain in the afternoon, they never opened the gate. So ... the lesson is that the gate is highly unreliable, and splitting the arrival into two groups would not be recommended since the second group may actually never get in, and the first group would never know it ... Just a thought.

Definitely in vedauwoo ... I'll look at my guide book when I get home ...