dave schultz

I have Jan 1st through Jan 9th totally free. Looking go climb some objectives in the Snoqualmie Pass area and TC on Dragontail, or any other ice route that might be in shape enough to climb. Would also like to do some climbing and scouting in other areas of the N Cascades (Mount Buckner, Johannesburg to name a couple). Wouldn't mind climbing at Smith, either, if anyone is into cold, January rock. I'll be on Rainier this weekend, but would love to get something lined up for the new year before heading out Friday morning. Thanks! Dave

That tram is free, right?

Austin (see previous Rainier Winter Ascent forum) and I are planning on heading up to Paradise Friday morning after the gate opens and making camp Friday at Muir, with a summit bid on Saturday, and back down on Sunday with Monday and Tuesday as possible delay days. Looking for anyone who might be available want a go at Rainier in the Winter. Weather window looks pretty good Friday through Monday morning (as far as the mountain-forecast will show). This plan will obviously evolve as weather forecast gets closer, but as of now it looks doable. Let me know if you are interested, we are just trying to make it a little better with a group of three vice just the two of us. Thanks, Dave

Austin - ice trip might not happen ... Shoot me a PM and lets discuss your trip. Dave

How about leaving on the 27th and coming back on the 31st? Canadian Rockies or Montana?

Looking to climb ice the 28th-31st (get off work afternoon of the 27th and would be driving all night to climb on the 28th). I am able to drive as far as Montana or Canadian Rockies. Otherwise I will probably be in the area over the same period of time and would love to get into Snoqualmie Pass ice. Dave

Looking for anyone to make a trip east to find some good ice. I can leave around 3 or 4 in the afternoon from Everett on the 27th and would like to be back by midnight on the 31st. I can lead up to WI4 and have all the gear. Thanks Dave

Other advice ... to be honest if you're looking for other advice maybe a winter ascent might not be in you're cards ... and a guide might be a good route ... If you're a serious skier I would go get yourself an AT set up and leave all those climbers in the dust on the uphill and then you can rip it on the downhill. It's way more fun. Otherwise, I would go up there with a VERY fluid plan and be ready to modify it based on the actual gate opening time, how much new snow has actually fallen and how the wind has loaded it (for group speed consideration and avi consideration), as well as all the other possible variables. I assume you all are coming from sea level and thus are not acclimatized; but if the weather is good and the conditions are right, I would be prepared (as an option) to keep pushing as long as you can and possibly blowing past your original first night's camp location and possibly even summiting in a single push (highly unlikely, but in the right conditions, possible). Obviously if people start showing AMS I would reconsider, but if everyone is feeling good that's the best way to get up and back down. If you do a big push, make sure you stay hydrated or you will have big problems on the second half. The body can go a very long time as long as it's hydrated. That's probably good for now ...

Looking for a partner for something this Sunday and Monday. I get off work early Sunday AM (about 8am) and can go straight from work in Everett to wherever. Given the late start on Sunday I would like to make it an overnight and finish in the afternoon on Christmas Eve. Ski touring around Baker would be ideal. Would be able to climb ice if this week's cold weather forecast comes true, probably in the Snowqualmie Pass area as either a late starting day trip on Sunday or a more full day style trip on Monday (or an overnight?). Point is, I have Sunday and Monday off. I love skiing and ice climbing and would like to get out and get some. Not too particular on the route, just whatever the weather and avi conditions allow is what I will take ... otherwise it'll be off to the resort which is something I'd like to keep avoiding ... (I could also climb/ski over Christmas is you were game for it ... my wife would understand ...) Let me know if you're interested, Dave

I believe BD has some STS custom that is 125mm in width ... could you use those and just not trim them? I bet you would have enough grip simply because of the width. Buy them from backcountry.com and if they don't work you can send 'em right back. http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-ascension-custom-sts-climbing-skins

Hey - provided the terrain is skinnable (ie not too steep) skis are about 100x (actually, maybe a million times) better than snow shoes. I would not be opposed to being the only person on skis. But, as of now, I will actually be going to Montana to climb ice. If the ice trip falls apart then I would be able to slide right into a rainier trip. I am scheduled to be in MT until the 31st so I would have plenty of time if I ended up on Rainier. I will give a word of caution with Rainier: the gate is highly unreliable. It WILL close at 5pm to uphill traffic, so if you want to start on the 27th you will need to be past the gate before 5pm. It is also very fickle in terms of when it actually opens. My first experience this year had it opening at 1030am (not a ton of fresh new snow); second experience it was open when we arrived at 10am (learned lesson from the first time); third experience was the day after the second experiense and the gate never opened ... we had camped in the Tatoosh and needed a NPS escort to get off the mountain in the afternoon, they never opened the gate. So ... the lesson is that the gate is highly unreliable, and splitting the arrival into two groups would not be recommended since the second group may actually never get in, and the first group would never know it ... Just a thought.

Definitely in vedauwoo ... I'll look at my guide book when I get home ...

When you going to Ouray? I'd love to join you if possible ....

I'm in Everett and am just waiting for the ice to come in. Had one unsuccessful trip to N Joffre Creek looking for ice already this season, and read some TRs of other peoples similar experience ... so I think I'll wait until its def cold enough for the ice form. Dave

I have the 28th through the 9th of January off; currently partially planning a trip to CO to climb ice or Smith to climb rock (will decide a little based on weather). I could go for a trek up Rainier; I would be on skis, though. I am new to the area but have been on the DC on Rainier in late August and the CD on Baker mid-September.

Sounds like a killer idea, I am game for early April, especially a ski descent. Weather is obviously pretty fickle, but April should be a little more reliable. Keep in touch as it gets closer to the date, any specific ideas for dates, or will you do a short notice flight to catch a good weather window? daveschultz125@gmail.com

I have the Oregon 450 and use the 24k maps. It's a pretty small device, gets reliable battery usage, and is very accurate. Not something to bank 100% on, but something that can make travel much easier especially at night and during low visibility. It also allows me to track my speed, distance, and elevation gain which I can then plug into future trips to gauge how long it might take to complete a particular route by comparing it to previous trips in similar conditions. Hope that helps, Dave

I agree that the weather is something to keep an eye on, I'll make the call Friday based on what actually develops plus the forecast for Saturday and Sunday will be a little more solid. Resorts might be the place to go, but I am hoping to get out and tour.

I was wondering if anyone would be interested in an overnight tour of Tatoosh on Saturday-Sunday. I was up at Paradise this past Thursday and the coverage seemed good across the way. The forecast is calling for some snow, but not too much, probably a couple inches on top of a solid crust. I will be driving down from Everett and arriving at Longmire around noon on Saturday, so it it would be a pretty late start. Let me know if you're interested (or if this seems like a silly idea). Dave

Trip: North Joffre Creek - Swiss Wall? Date: 11/24/2012 Trip Report: Headed up to NJC looking for ice on Saturday. What a foolish idea. Early season, not a lot of snow, not super cold ... you can see where this is heading. The skin up the logging road was not too bad, followed a snow mobile track for about 1.5 miles then easy trail breaking. We made a critical mistake of heading right at the end of the logging road instead of heading left across the creek. What ensued was about 2 hrs of bushwacking, skining on top of thin snow on top of down trees, creek crossings, and other horrors ... all to gain another 1/2 mile. Then the ice looked thin and not very climbable, but the longer we looked at it, the better it looked (mirages, maybe?). Still the approach was horrible, and we never got to the start. We tuck tailed and bailed, in order to get out by sunset and at least salvage Sunday. We were rewarded with hearing one of the fatter looking corners of ice collapse as we were heading out - that would have made the day a little worse. We returned on the right side of the creek (opposite from where we started), which was much easier, faster, and less stressful. The skin back to the trucks was fast and uneventful. In the end, all it cost us was a full day of skinning, while carrying overnight packs (training weight?), with the false hope of finding ice in November (impeccable optimism?). With another foot of base the approach the left side of the creek would be cake, and with a long and colder stretch of weather the ice looked like it would be steller. For the skiers: it looked like there was TONS of great adventure skiing. Bring your avi A-Game and a competent parter, and make sure you're well rested. Several good looking lines and great bowl skiing further up the creek drainage. I will try and get a few pics posted when I figure out how to work my iPhone. Gear: we only needed skis and skins (and days packs). In good conditions it looked like a variety of screws, probably some pins, a light selection of rock gear if your into that stuff might also be helpful. Snow note: VERY consistent weak layer approx 1 inch thick, about 2 inches below the surface, and about 18 inches above the ground. Discovered in the parking area off Highway 99 and was still present as far as we got. Look for it when you head in there. BTW, this is my first TR ... Dave

I have a Tracker 2 and its great. I am thinking about getting the Mammut Pulse Barryvox due to its better performance with multiple burials. They are pretty expensive, but most people will vouch for the importance if you are ever involved in a slide.

AIARE Level I is invaluable - one of the best courses to take. I did mine in VT so I can't speak to who does it here. You probably can't go wrong though.

PM sent

This weekend? Friday to Sunday for day trips or an overnight. Will narrow down options on Tuesday and Wednesday. I am experianced leading ice and rock, as well as mountaineering and ski mountaineering. Crevasse and avi aware, not too much medical training, though.

Hi, I am also new to the PNW. I have experiance rock and ice climbing, plus moutnaineering and ski moutnaineering. I am crevasse rescue competant as well as some avalanche training. I prefer to do something that allows me to ski down it, but am happy to leave the skis behind. I have Friday to Sunday off, looking for single day or overnight partners.