dave schultz

Ben - sounds like a ride. On the way down I had a bright red jacket and Michael had a green jacket. I found the skiing on the S Side to be pretty unsatisfying, tough I never really enjoy the downhill in AT gear. The conditions were pretty wind scoured, with some powder stashes, and frequent sections of what I would "ice crystals" that were nasty to ski across but could for the most part be avoided. The Right Couloir would have been much more enjoyable

I'm not familiar at all with Mt Hood, since we had two skiers and two on foot we descended down at varying speeds and regrouped at the climbers registration in what I would consider the lodge. You did not talk to me (that I can remember), though definitely a possibility you talked to one of the other three guys.

Trip: Mt Hood - North Face, Right Couloir Date: 3/9/2013 Trip Report: I was originally looking for a single push Rainier bid if I could find a partner, and asked Michael if he was interested. He said "yes, but ... already going to N Face of Hood." Their group of three turned into a group of four (though possibly two groups of two). I had the N Face of Hood as a possible ski descent, ever since seeing it in the Cascade Volcano Guide a few months ago. So our plan was to climb the route, and if Michael felt comfortable enough with a ski belay that we would go for what I think would have been the first ski descent of the right couloir. Michael and I left the cooper spur trailhead on skis at 6pm and were bivyed at 8000 feet just below the Cooper Spur and asleep by midnight. With the splitter weather window we opted to go sans tent and were treated with perfectly clear skies, amazing stars, and not a breath of wind ... its too bad no point and shoot or iPhone can capture the sight. The other two members of our group (Mike and Luke) did not want to bivy and instead single pushed it, leaving the TH at about 1am. We regrouped at around 530am at our bivy site, Michael and I were still getting ready, so Mike and Luke pressed on and then we regrouped again closer to the bergschrund. We eyed a possible crossing from afar, and zeroed in on it. Michael and I kept skis on all the way to the schrund. Our initial assement of the crossing was spot on, we roped up and it proved to an easy crossing. Once across, we unroped, and it was a relative wallow-fest up and into the right couloir. There was a small ice step, maybe WI1 or WI2- ... I was able to climb it with only a single tool and a whippet. It was then on to the what is probably considered the first ice step, a short WI3 section (needed both tools, so I consider it WI3; not sure how exactly the Alpine Ice rating is actually applied). Luke soloed up, Mike goes and takes a few swings and then decides that he wants a belay - so Michael headed up tailing a rope and gave Mike a belay (presumably off a picket). I used this down time to melt some water, since I had very wisely left one of my half liter water bottles outside during the night. Then I soloed up, coiled the rope, and followed the train. We then trucked our way up the left side of the couloir. The whole time I am thinking that this ski descent will be incredible, the setting, blue bird sky, good enough stability, no significant avi concern, and the snow looked featured enough to ski well, but not to deep to be especially dangerous. It was another several hundred feet to the second step. On the right it looked to be bigger and more imposing than the first step; but on the left it looked lower angled and thinner, possibly very enjoyable. We decide that the right side is the way to go, and then we debate whether a belay would be necessary for this one, and conclude that since we have the ropes, and the gear, why not just pitch this one out. I head out, place a single 13cm screw early to take out the factor two fall possibility and sling it long with a screamer and up I go. The ice took first swings really well, took front points great, but was a little thin in some areas, and before I knew it, I was pulling the last vertical section and on top. Michael thought that soloing it would be a good idea, up until he was about halfway up and then he (unknown to me) hastily tied into my tailing rope. I tried setting up a belay on the right side above, but pickets sucked and screws were just as bad, so I moved over to the left and got a bomber picket, just as Michael was coming up and was yelling "take! take!". I was clipped into the anchor, but the rope was not in the belay device yet, so I pulled all the rope I could and gave him the most awkward hip belay ever, but it worked. When Michael got to the belay we beefed it up to a two equalized picket anchor, and when Mike got to the top we added a third picket to the fun. This, fortunately, would be the hairiest section for us. Then it was another several hundred feet to the top of the couloir, which again, looked to be in great condition, and I was thinking that this ski descent was definitely going to get done today. It was here that Michael broke the news to me ... that even with a ski belay, he would not be comfortable skiing this couloir. CRUSHED, I said: "no problem." I debated with myself the possibility of doing it solo, turning out group of 4 into a group of 3, plus me - and decided that was something I would not do, break apart a group just to selfishly chase a dangerous goal (if there was no schrund on the bottom, I would have been more inclined to do it). It will be there again for me to try and ski. At this point we opted to follow the route to the right, and up the third ice step, which we all soloed, was a decent length of WI2 to WI2+ (second tool could have been optional). Mike was pretty gassed by this point, but made it up the third step solo. Then it was a short section of snow to the fourth ice step, Mike then asked to be belayed on the last section, so I tailed a rope for him, it was again WI2 to WI2+ (second tool optional). The steepest part was pulling the final snow wall up to the summit (two tools required). I stuck my head over the top to see two or three climbers standing there, got one to take my picture with his iPhone (got them, priceless, thanks sir!), then climbed up and over and put Mike on a hip belay. Michael summitted a few minutes after I did, solo; then Mike, on belay; then Luke, solo. With all four climbers on the summit, via a moderately technical route, with perfect blue bird weather, and an open bivy ... its hard to get any better. We descended via south side to a staged vehicle. As probably my last climb/trip until mid-October, a special thanks goes out to Mike, Michael, and Luke for making it a great one to finish on. Pictures to follow Gear Notes: Michael and I brought: 7 screws (2x10, 2x13, 2x16, 1x22) 2 80m 7.8mm double ropes (with the idea of rappelling the technical sections of ice on ski descent, and not wanting to get stuck in a bad place without enough rope) 3 pickets 4 screamers 3 single length slings 3 double length slings 1 triple length sling Actual gear placed: 1 screw, three pickets (I'm not sure what was used on the first ice step for a belay). Not sure what Mike and Luke brought. Approach Notes: Easy skin up the Tilly Jane and then up the left side of the Elliot Glacier. The schrund was super easy (this time).

Found Saturday afternoon. Describe it and it's yours.

Does anyone know if the North Face of Mount Hood has ever seen a ski descent? Can anyone tell me how long or how many rappels it would be to rappel the technical sections on the right couloir.

Gene - looking for a rainier bid on Friday or Saturday. If I end up going on Friday, the wife and dog and I might join you at Index on Saturday.

Looks like a single push solo of Rainier via Gib Ledges on Friday. My wife would be happier if I could find a partner. Willing to push to Saturday if someone can go then. Let me know.

slowshoes or skis?

I have Thursday to Sunday off. Looking to do just about anything, overnights preferred since I have the time, but day trips are also a sweet deal. Technical ideas would be N Face of Shuksan, Nisqually/Gib Ledge/Kautz on Rainier, N Face of Hood, cragging, or anything else. Would be willing to drive to Montana for ice. Non-technical ideas would be touring around Baker, Paradise, Snoqualmie, or anything else. This weekend's weather makes climbing seem more appealing since the snow probably won't be that great, though that could change by the second half of the week. Let me know if anyone is interested, Thanks Dave

I'd be interested in setting something up for Thursday-Friday. PM Sent.

Next Thursday and Friday (and Saturday and Sunday). Depends on weahter, but game for anything.

Trip: Colchuck - Triple Couloir Attempt Date: 2/24/2013 Trip Report: Gorin and I went for a single push TC climb and possible ski descent. Inspired by John and Scott's TR of their descent in early January I thought that there might be enough ice for the climb and descent snow with reasonable avi conditions for a shot at this elusive tick. We started at the TH at about 4am on Sunday morning, and actually met Scott on the trail on his way to his Ice Cliff Adventure. We made descent time to the start of the hidden couloir, arrive at around 9am. We took a little while to reset ourselves and then made bad time up the hidden couloir. We made the mistake of climbing through the thin ice and mixed rock which demanded an actual belay instead of simply taking the easiest way up in favor of speed. We arrived at the runnels to find them in very thin shape. Mixed climbing would be favorable description, it looked more like straight rock climbing. We opted to simply descent the route instead of continuing to the second or third options. Had conditions been favorable, an all afternoon and evening/night climb would have been in order, but with the poor conditions we decided to tuck tail. In order to avoid any silly mistakes on the descent, and in order to try out some general mountaineering skills we made eight double rope rappels using snow bollards (which neither of us had ever done before). It was way faster than building gear anchors for rappelling, and definitely faster than down climbing. Skiing down would have been faster, but we decided against it just to be on the safe side. We got to the bottom, packed the gear, and made descent time to the car. Skiing down the road was fast, with only about 4 areas that required taking skis off. Compared to the previous TRs for the area, there appeared to be significantly less snow than previous/normal. This should be no big surprise based on the minimal amount of recent snow, and the very low February precipitation. We did not see bad avi conditions, only a few local heavily wind loaded areas displayed possible areas of concern, as would be expected. The areas of significant loading were very well bonded, and was difficult to shear that slab form the underlying bed surface. If seeking simply a ski descent, the route is probably still in pretty good shape, just be well prepared for the rappels: find established stations (risky) or be prepared to leave gear. We both forgot out cameras, so iPhone pics is the only thing to show. And only one pic of the runnels, kinda funky orientation, but pretty clear that there is not much ice. Gear Notes: We brought a med ski mountaineering rack for the route. half a dozen nuts, 6 pins, .3-2 C4 cams, and four ice screws. we used two double 8mm ropes. half a dozen slings and 5 screamers. Approach Notes: pretty straightforward approach. not a lot of new snow on Sunday.

dig a hole and you dont even need a tent ... but yes, a 3 season will most definitely work in july, unless they get a nasty storm, but then you just need to build a wall around it.

It looks like the N Cascades are going to get dumped on Thursday night and Friday, pushing the terrain selection further south to the Enchantments (for a traverse, basecamp, or single day; possibly the TC [if anyone has any recent pics or conditions for dragontail/TC it would be much appreciated]), Rainier (Paradise, Tatoosh, Nisqually Chutes, Fuhrer, etc), or Hood.

Anyone want to put themselves through a little bit of misery and go aid climbing Monday at Index?

Looking for a partner for the weekend, prefer to head out after work Friday for two nights. I would also be willing to do two solid day trips instead of overnights. I would love to get onto a technical route of some nature: rock, ice, mixed, alpine; combining it with a ski descent would be even better. Weather and avi conditions will dictate what would be the best route, just looking for possible partners and will come up with a plan later on in the week. Thanks for reading, Dave

Index has been great the last two weekends. A little on the chilly side, and a little wet in the morning, but its pretty good for mid February.

PM sent

I'd be game for a day out on the rock. I get off work in Everett at about 8am on Sunday morning though. I also have a rack, rope, car, beer. Index and Mt Erie are both pretty close to me, Leavenworth might be a little on the colder side, and probably wetter. Not sure what the I-90 corridor would be like ...

Just remembered that VertFest is that same weekend - I'll be staying around here for that event; but would able to head out on another weekend. I could probably leave Thursday and drive all night and then need to be back in town on Tuesday morning for work.

I'd love to head to Bozeman for some ice. I'd have to take some vacation days over that weekend, but I might be able to swing it. I'll look into it early next week and let you know. I can lead WI3 very comfortably and WI4 not-so-comfortably but I can get up it. I also have all the gear.

Good to know about SCW - thanks for the heads up. Clint - pm sent. Any recent reports from index?

Hi everyone, Looking for a partner for the weekend, with a few very different ideas: 1) Mt Erie - now that the tool swinging addiction has been semi-satisfied and with the poor outlook for the weekend, the rock itch has surfaced a little bit. 2) Snow Creek Wall - for Orbit, or Outer Space, the approach would probably be really shitty, but a semi-off-season jaunt up those great routes could be really fun. 3) The Tooth - for the rock route, another off-season idea with a fun approach on skis. 4) Stevens or Snoqualmie Pass backcountry skiing, would like to get out on some relatively mellow terrain to enjoy some much anticipated tele turns. I will be leaving from Everett at around 8am at the earliest, so it would have a pretty late start, unfortunately. If any of those strike your fancy, let me know, otherwise I'll just be soloing at a resort or playing at the dog park with the pup. Dave

I'm interested in heading to Smith - it would have to be for a full value weekend though since I'm coming from Everett. I can lead low .10s.

Trip: Rambles - Left and Center Date: 1/26/2013 Trip Report: Approach was easy, about 20-30 min on a well worn track. Rambles Left is in very good condition, upper tier in very good condition with easy access to TR the WI4 finishes. Rambles Center is also in very good condition, with the top tier in very good condition. Did not do the Left or Right top variation, but did a nice long pitch that was to the left of the normal finishes (not sure what the pitch's name is). If your looking for great ice conditions with lots of options all around and a very easy approach, head up the Rambles, you will not be disappointed. West Coast Ice is a great source of information, http://www.westcoastice.com/