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Everything posted by bedellympian

  1. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    After Image is in WI5+ shape apparently... Anyone got conditions on I-Rock?
  2. Water Filtration: is it necessary?

    Like most responses I'm a selective filterer. However, unlike most responders I filter LEAST in still water. The idea that flowing water is clean is actually total bull. Unless its coming directly from snow or a spring it's more likely to contain a high microbial load. Clear surface water of a lake in direct sun at altitude is one of the safest sources as the sun's UV rays is doing the same thing as those steri-pens all day and scrambling small critter DNA. The USFS has a webpage for the Sierra (of all places) that recommends this practice. But then again the Cascades do have some pretty low elevation and swampy lakes.
  3. Don't pay for an air taxi at all. You can climb White Princess and other peaks in the Delta Range (eastern Alaska Range) with a 10 mile hike up the glacier from the road. Park on the side of the Richardson highway, lots of pullouts. You can also climb a ton in the Chugach, approachable at the W end from ANC or the E end from the Richardson near Valdez. Then there is also driving into McCarthy and climbing stuff in the Wrangells and St. Elias. Finally, you can take the bus to Wonder Lake in Denali and hike overland to the N side of the AK range (a full day, probably two if carrying lots of gear). You can get on Denali itself or other peaks. Check the N ridge of Mt. Mather, Jed Brown had an article on it in the AAJ.
  4. New Year New Goals

    Done already... -tick a bunch of multi-pitch wi3+/4s -plane tickets to india To do... -tick a bunch of mixed gullies on the local crag -climb a bunch of mixed routes in oregon cascades -go to mountains somewhere in march and climb some mixed alpine routes -ski off the remainder of the cascade volcanoes on my list -spend a month in the ladakh region doing some "sight seeing" with the wife, aka scrambling up and scoping some stuff, doubt there will be any real climbing on the trip -tick more lines at trout creek -el cap route if the weather holds through november
  5. Top rope solo with Wild Country Ropeman

    I use the CAMP Lift with my Microtraxion which works great. Can't comment on the Ropeman.
  6. I have one week off at the end of March and want to go swing/scratch up something in mountain-y terrain outside of Oregon. Where do I go? Thoughts so far... Colchuck/Stuart zone - I've been before this time of year so it would be familiar but still lots I want to do. Plus its a short drive. Tetons - chance of high avy danger? good skiing if stuff is bad, long approaches in winter Banff/CanRockies - chance of high avy, ice could still be in low, don't know much about it, long drive Sierra - sunny mixed on granite, minimal ice?, long approaches alternative ideas? Obviously conditions/weather/avy danger at the time will probably be the concluding factor but I'm curious what other folks have done/would want to do? Specific routes? Thanks!
  7. Trip: Broken Top South (9094) and Main - Left Ramp Direct + High Noon Trip Date: 12/10/2017 Trip Report: I wanted to share a little about a recent excursion to Broken Top's Crook Cirque. This is a good venue for winter climbing close to Bend in terms of the routes available. However, it is a long approach (7 miles on rolling terrain) and the Cirque is S facing making it a solar oven in just about any sunny weather. The bad news is that conditions are fickle and hard to nail (this was my 6th time going out there to try climb and only second trip climbing something). The good news is it's a great backcountry ski zone when climbing is out. Hopefully others can learn from my beta and have success/fun. Approach: If overnighting or snow machining park at Dutchman's, Bachelor has started towing unattended vehicles at night. Fastest skin track is the snow machine access road and you might be able to hitch a ride but its not pleasant. The other two options are following xc ski trails or going down to Todd Lake and then through that way. Expect at least 2.5 hours for a fit person on the move nailing route finding. Conditions: This has been the crux for me over the years. The south facing cirque gets way too hot in the sun and the ideal climbing aspects get windloaded and corniced by storms. Luckily routes are generally short and quick so you have three options. 1. Ski out and climb it in the evening, then camp or headlamp it back to the car. 2. Camp out and climb it early. 3. Climb in spindrift on the front end of a storm cycle. This past weekend many small ice flows were in but temps were dangerously high as soon as the sun hit. Route Recs and what I did: -East face of 9094 has plenty of options that are somewhere between Devil's Kitchen Headwall and Eliot Headwall in length and difficulty. Most stuff has been done unless you are into futuristic x-rated choss climbing. Can be badly corniced. -South Face of BT gets the full sun effect, the two routes worth doing IMHO are 11 o'clock couloir to the summit and High Noon Couloir. Both are in Oregon High. High Noon, which I finally did this weekend, has surprisingly good rock. There are possibly other options doable up the main buttress, difficulty hard to determine. Here are some grainy iphone pictures from this weekend to entice those looking for a slog-worthy objective... Crook Cirque , BT S face center, E face 9094 on L E face 9094 (~800ft) Saturday evening Three short but fun ice steps lead into the L of two ramps on E face 9094. L ramp couloir goes through arch to steep snow top out. Views from summit of 9094 Sat evening: top pic L-R N Sis, Jefferson, BT main w/ Hihg Noon Couloir obvious, bottom sunset, walk off on scree to the SW and E down snow gullies. Approaching BT main south face and High Noon Sunday morning. Sketchy ice flow L of High Noon Couli, exposed scree traverse and wet moss top out, solid sticks though and AI3-, traversed into main couli above this. Traversing steep snow into High Noon from top of ice flows. Solid rock at top of High Noon. T-shirt weather at 8am mid December on the south facing aspect. Bare hand rock climbing with pons ensued... a good time. Looking down the crux step (low 5th). Many options on these upper steps. Nice summit views south to 9094 and Bachelor; and north to the Sisters. Gear Notes: Light and climbable AT boots, tools/pons, sun shade hoody and tshirt for the ridiculously hot weather. Approach Notes: Dutchman's through snow machine road, xc trails are slower but less stanky.

    This was mine. Rock falling on foot soloing in Pickets. Pretty obvious lesson... don’t onsight solo choss.
  9. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Doubtful, the approach and the fickle conditions will keep this a rarely visited enigma, same as all the goods in OR.
  10. 1 week - end of march - alpine where?

    So Chamonix does look incredible but its not in the cards, neither is AK. Obviously conditions are fickle and that will ultimately determine my destination, BUT what are some areas where there is the potential for alpine MIXED climbing in western North America that time of year? Rockies, Cascades, and Tetons are on my list of places to watch.
  11. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    It's in right now. Follow @markhauter on Instagram.
  12. 1 week - end of march - alpine where?

    Chamonix? Where? How big?
  13. 1 week - end of march - alpine where?

    gavinj4 - Trout is closed end of January thru mid-May at the earliest for raptor nesting, please do not abuse the self-enforced climbing ban that the community has worked out with the BLM. Aside from that I live near Trout and climb there weekly in the fall so it's not exactly what I want to do with a week off.
  14. New Years Ice Location

    Obviously I'll have to wait until closer to the time to see how conditions are but what are some good places to ice climb over New Years? I was thinking Lee Vining would have more daylight but might not be in much at that time. Hyalite is another option. Canmore seems like its usually way too cold. I have friends going to Ouray but I only have 10 days and it's a REALLY long drive. Other options?
  15. Elbow/finger/shoulder training beta

    If you haven't yet checked out the Training Beta podcast I would recommend taking a gander at the various episode topics. I listened to all of the ones with PT Esther Smith after tweaking a finger this summer. There are some free videos linked on the Training Beta website with exercises and she discusses a specific finger protocol for injured fingers in the episodes. I've been following the finger protocol and it has been working great so far. I was also using her exercises to try address what I thought was elbow tendonitis but eventually resolved to medial nerve irritation stemming from the shoulder. A friend showed me Dave McLeod's book where he recommends a "shoulder slide" exercise with your back to a wall for shoulder antagonists which resolved 90% of my shoulder and elbow issues almost overnight. Both these rehab regimens have been so effective for me I felt like I should share them with people here... hopefully someone can benefit.
  16. Slesse Conditions 2017

    Thanks Marc. Did the deed last week. Got my 2WD Hyundai to the TH with minimal shenanigans but slow going (not recommended unless you don't care about your car's appearance and are comfortable driving rough roads). Pocket Glcier is still there at the very top in a very small but tall segment. The Crossover Descent had two sections that I felt there was not much detail in Blake's guide: 1. The raps off Parke are much closer to the summit than what the topo map suggests. Scramble up on top of the thing and find the shoulder between the two highest points, from there you will see the rap station. 2. Make sure you get to the meadows where you pick up the trail with lots of light. We got there as light was fading and never found the trail. We assumed it was way downhill and after way too much bushwhacking got cliffed out and had to head back up and over to intersect it by headlamp, not ideal. 20.5 hrs car-car seemed like a relaxed pace having not done any of it before. Hike in was 4 hrs, route was 8 hrs, descent with route finding errors was 8 hrs. Make sure you're comfortable on steep snow, loose rock. Stellar route.
  17. Slesse Conditions 2017

    Thanks G-spotter. I'll just walk. Leaving my truck in Oregon will save me 50% on gas... not worth the trade-off!
  18. Slesse Conditions 2017

    Can anyone speak to the road conditions? I want to get in there but I have a 2WD vehicle.
  19. Slesse current beta

    Heard the pocket glacier slid... can anyone confirm? Also, anyone driven the road this season? Clearance and conditions on that? Thanks...
  20. Slesse current beta

    Thanks Jason
  21. Buying hand drill... any advice?

    Like the title says, I'm looking to buy a bolt kit. I will be mostly looking to put in rappel and belay anchors on new back country trad routes. I want to start with a hand drill due to the weight, cost, and few holes I will actually drill. Does anyone have personal experience and recommendations? Best bolts to place in hand drilled holes? Best drill bit? Where to save money and where to shell more out so I have something that works but doesn't break the bank? General tips for someone new to this? Thanks.
  22. Winter alpine routes? Sawtooths etc.

    Anyone know where to find info on routes and conditions for alpine ice/mixed routes in the Sawtooths or nearby area? Got any recommendations? Considering potential of early spring/late winter trips. Would also be interested in skimo beta. Thanks, Sam
  23. I tried to mix it up for a couple months after reading Sol's post about conjugate periodization. I had been climbing a lot of random stuff (no consistency) with the occasional hang board session (~once every other week). I then spent 2 months doing the following: Tuesday: Easy bouldering warm-up Project 1-2 routes at my limit (total 4-6 goes) 4x4 bouldering arm strength and core Thursday: ARC 30 min Project 1-2 routes at my limit 4 sets on campus board 4 onsight/flash boulder problems leg strength and core Sat/Sun: Early in the training I ARCed a third day in the gym, later I climbed routes outside. Early in the training I worked on boulder problems I could send easily and focused more on the ARCing, doing it as a warm-up both days. Later I treated the ARC as a warm-up and focused on pushing the harder boulder problems and the 4x4. This definitely got me strong specifically for sport climbing, but I feel that having a bigger and more consistent climbing base would have paid off more. Also, you wouldn't want to do this for long, 8 weeks was a lot of intensity and my body had some lingering aches and pains. Results: I sent a climb that I could have probably sent before with a lot of work but I did it easily in 4 tries and it upped my redpoint best two letter grades. ... my 2 cents.
  24. Trying this conjugate rock training stuff

    Muscular endurance is one of the things stressed at the end of the base period in the Steve House Training for the New Alpinism book. It's basically just doing a lot of (insert muscle taxing activity here). The reason for the change is that my goals for the summer are long endurance climbs, not hard red points. I'll do some more of this conjugate stuff in the fall and try push my hard climbing farther then. Plans for muscular endurance workouts are... TR solo laps on pumpy thin hand cracks Jug a line in a tree with a pack a bunch of times Throw in some hangboarding, campus boarding, bouldering to maintain grip strength and try some of the harder cracks and multis now that my redpoint sport grade is higher than them. Hopefully will be nice and fit when I get off work in late June.
  25. Trying this conjugate rock training stuff

    Thanks Sol, I'm taking a week off of training and just climbing fun stuff if the weather is nice. I will be refocusing on muscular endurance training with crack climbing and multi-pitch days on the weekend. Plan is to hit Yosemite and Sierra in late June once I get off work for the summer. Hopefully some stuff in Canada later in summer.