wetslide

For you, maybe. But the rest of the interwebs..not so much.

This is when having a cabin 30 minutes from Icicle becomes awesome.

Freight were you that group coming down as we passed around 13,900 feet? Congrats on the summit.

Thanks for the compliment Water. When she punched through it was over a crevasse bridge.

Trip: Mt Rainier - Ingraham Direct Date: 5/12/2012 Trip Report: So Luke D. asked me about climbing Rainier this last weekend. The forecast looked great. Turned out I was the only one who had summited Rainier previously. I was happy to do the ID again as it is a very enjoyable route. He had invited his roommate Hannah and her boyfriend Dave, as well as Mike, Luke's friend. Anyway, we left Seattle on Friday around 6 am. He got to the park, got permits, and so on and so forth. We hiked up to Muir. Luke, Mike and I got there in a few hours (not sure exactly how long), while Hannah and Dave arrived 2 1/2 hours later. By then, we had long finished dinner and hydrated. We had debated about summiting on Sunday, but with the warming weather and the agony of waiting in a good weather window, we decided to make a Saturday summit. On summit morning we left the hut around 2 am. After 1 3/4 hours of slow movement, we found that Hannah and Dave were scared of the terrain, questioning their own experience level, and tired. After much group discussion it was decided we would send them back from Ingraham Flats. They agreed and headed down. After we cut them loose the three of us sailed up the peak. We met up with two bros coming off of Gib Ledges. "Hey assholes!" I think is how they greeted us. They had some trouble with cold hands and slow movement that they worked out, and they summited with us. The route is in pretty good conditions, but on the way down we were a little unnerved one particular bridge crossing. We saw a group of two females, one of whom seemed to break through the bridge in front of us. They managed to get out though. The summit was glorious- we took some pics and headed down. All in all a great trip with good partners. Gear Notes: Crevasse rescue gear, a picket, screw, helmet, 30 meter 8.5 rope. Approach Notes: drive to paradise and follow the crowds to Muir. Follow the boot path to the summit.

Haha sorry man that came off wrong. Just trying to let people know this route can go with much less gear. I applaud you for your efforts. I did that route as well when I was progressing and learned from asshole comments like the one I just made. Didn't know the air was so thick around here. I apologize for my comment, but not necessarily for everything I've ever done on this board. There's kind of an us verses them mentality here that is bullshit and pretentious and doesn't exist when you share a rope with someone. I can't name one person I've climbed with who would't rope up with me for personal or other reasons. Can YOU say the same thing? Let's PM if you want to talk.

10 ice screws is ridiculous for this route.

It seems obvious to experienced people but I guess your question is valid. But it kinda seems like a troll. Do people really do that? Pardon my surprise but that just seems plain dumb.

pm sent.

Great points all around. I've done both in June on the last two years. Last year I did the DC because the ID was out. The year before the ID was in great shape and we sprinted up. Just depends on the year, snowfall, and the weather.

Depends on your source of employment. As a photographer, you could make a living out there just from the nature shots alone.

booty. you are a true saint.

Wow that camera looks cool!

If you want better quality pictures than you can get with a P+S you might want to look at an older rebel xs (lightest full SLR canon makes) paired with a prime 50 lens (light as shit and cheap and takes great photos). Then again, that kind of blows the whole carrying it on your shoulder thing for some climbs. But it works for me. To each their own.

"unable to arrest and having crampons on is a bad situation. actually, falling with crampons on is a bad situation too." I can attest to this.

TMI.

Ya. We were just going to go do the South side route, with maybe a pearly gates variation for fun. I've already done it but the people I was with were newbs or very out of practice.

Good luck man. Just spent 2 days down there "trying" to climb (read as going to fancy restaurants, basking in the condo and snowshoeing (not climbing)). Not saying it wasn't fun but staring at my ice tools isn't my idea of a good time most days.

On the shovel debate- I usually bring one of those aluminum (I believe that is what it is made out of) snow claw. It can be slung as a deadman after you carve out your tent platform, used for harvesting snow for melting, or just sitting on. Lightweight as well. Just depends on how you want to work things. I always find it helpful to bring as many things that can anchor the tent as possible. Like Dougd, I don't bring it past high camp.

ADK- I did. Wasn't really trying to call people wimps for acclimatizing but I've heard either you should get up as fast as you can or take a really long time. The intermediate periods of time don't really benefit you in terms of acclimatization and in fact might make you more susceptible to altitude sickness. Keenwash- have you climbed Rainier?

ya kinda funny with that no goggles comment. Every time I've climbed Rainier it has been really really windy and snowy and I've really appreciated goggles. Oh and keenwesh- acclimatization is for wimps.

Good boy Marc.

I'll second that and yeah the kid could use the $. I'll third that one.

check out my website. photography I can print up some posters for you for a reasonable price. Just let me know what ones you want. pm if you have questions. Or use the contact form on the site. I have a bunch of new mountain photos I just took that I can show you as well. My purchase page is here purchase page

A bit of a mixed bag, and it depends greatly, but I would answer with a qualified yes. I used to not think so. Then I burned through the cheaper brands while the more expensive pieces still are holding up. Can't speak to dead bird clothing but their packs are pretty stellar. The thing is, you can get some of the primo brands for cheap if you have pro deals or find the sales. So, if you can get a "primo" brand for almost the same price as a second tier brand, why not right? And to answer your question more directly, for a weekend climber, who obviously climbs less than some, quality is obviously less important because wear will be less.