wetslide

Augie's Quest. ALS research. Beyond that I'm not quite sure what it is to be completely honest. I'm more the climbing expert than anything. Here is a link the facebook page if you're interested. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Climb-For-The-Cure/291672500882243?ref=hl

haha I knew someone was going to say something about that. Yes it was. She's from Minnesota. I didn't know until the night before the climb that she didn't have other boots. She bought those for an early season climb of hood that got shut down. She turned around about 1/3 of the way up the climb. She was fit but was having bad cramps so turned around. It was for the best.

Trip: Mt Hood - South Side Date: 8/17/2012 Trip Report: Guided a couple friends up Hood this last Friday. 2 of us made the summit. We saw one other person high on the mountain, an eastcoaster who seemed a little out of his element but nonetheless made the summit. We experienced very hard snow on the final headwall, and 4 inches of dirt over bullet ice in the exit shoot to the summit ridge. It was pretty unnerving climbing for about 200 feet. We brought a rope, screws, and used none of it. The route is doable but not the best conditions I've seen by far. A little late in the season for this route IMHO. Note: We had a great time partying with our local friends down there. Not that they read this board but the world needs more people like J and M. Oh, and we raised 10,000 dollars for charity by doing this climb. cheers. Gear Notes: crampons, ice ax, ice screws and rope brought but not used.

It is very common for relatively new crack climbers to have poor technique and therefore to experience pain. I used to tape for several years for harder cracks, now I rarely do (not that I don't get myself bloody on 5.10 and harder cracks from time to time). There isn't any easy cure for this, short of taping. Just climb more.

Don't do it! My buddy got really messed up glissading that. That was late season with lots of snice. Might be different in some conditions.

Wise words friends. But, if anyone deserves to get their gear back it is these two.

Well, one double/half rope isn't designed to be used alone. Not that many people don't do it. I like the beal jokers because they are designed to be used as twins/half or singles. Very durable as well. Great for routes where many raps are needed, the route is meandering and longer routes where you want to have options.

I'm in the area. I have all the gear for multipitch alpine rock. Lead up to 11a comfortably on trad. Comfortable leading everything, following everything, or swapping leads. Experienced in climbing (you laugh but some people these days.) Alpine, mountain, rock, ect experienced. PM for details. Basically any time between now and Tuesday night I'm free so an alpine trip isn't out of the question.

I got injured twice this season. Both times I bounced back relatively quickly. Say 1-2 months each. - it's hard to bounce back -sometimes you'll climb harder after an injury. -take it slow when getting back into climbing, your mind and body are both out of sync with the whole defying death thing. -soloing and ski alpinism are dangerous. Stack the odds in your favor. Bring a trusted, competent partner. Preferably with some bomb beer or other indulgent consumable. -Trust is everything -So is commitment.

Become a climber. Seriously. Constantly letting down friends, constantly getting burned, constantly burning others. I guess this is the real world.

You guys think batteries are heavy try lugging a generator 300 feet up a snow ridden trail to bolt a mixed line still unrepeated in the Cascades.

Bring a pink tricam.

yikes. definitely saw a few shady characters there last Thursday lurking around the parking lot that scattered when I came back to my car. Who wants to do a stakeout?

In my limited experience placing bolts, I've used the ones Kurt recommends, but I used the 1/2 inch version primarily. They are quite pricey but I think that makes it so that you consider the options when placing bolts.

You have me mistaken for the OP.

A few examples of racking. I agree with the most the sentiments and explanations stated thus far. Sometimes I thank God for the private school system. Photos: Todd K. on Total Soul, Zach G. on Breakfast of Champions and Thin fingers, and Mark S. on Toxic Shock. (Rocketparrotlet) (Sorry for the obnoxious watermark I don't have small versions of the watermark-free version.

haha thanks. Those were taken with my iphone!

I made it up there yesterday expecting to wait in a cue for hours. Turned out there was one chill party that let me solo through while they rappelled. Made it to the summit in like 2 1/2 hours from the car. About 11 minutes of actual rock climbing in rock shoes up. Probably the same down climbing and rappelling. Definitely have done it car to car in less time than that before but I was carrying a lot more gear this time. Amazing day to get out.

Really depends on the route. Often I just take both bd reactors if I am doing something kind of technical. For big mountain slogs to technical routes I use a longer (70 cm- I'm tall) ice ax paired with a reactor. There are definitely better options out there, this is just what I've become comfortable with. I used to have some convertible ice axes from Camp that had a retractable pinky rest. Then I lost one soloing Baring and just sold the other and bought something else. Camp does seem to be on the cutting edge of light mountaineering axes.

Knifeblades, Ice screws, Red alien.

While probably not qualified to offer an opinion, I know how both sides feel about this. I've done some speed stuff, mainly solo. I've broadcasted some of the more entertaining of those here, but have remained silent on many other, more personal trips, impressive to the outside or not. Just remember getting off the couch is half the battle. Just getting into the mountains, considering speed or not, is a worthy endeavor. I think speed gets in the way of really enjoying the moment but that's just how some of us are wired. We love goals, ect. Whether the juxtaposition of media and climbing is good is still to be seen. I'm just waiting for a death to be captured and broadcasted out to the real world. (not that I want that to happen). It will take something like that for us realize that we do play a very dangerous game when pushing limits for personal recognition, fame, or affirmation. These were my thoughts. Back to researching for my thesis.

1. 6/22/12- 6/24 or 25/12 2. Squammish, BC 3. Woodinville, WA. 4. 1 5. I can drive. 26 mpg hwy. Meeting a partner in the parking lot on 6/22 so don't really need a partner. But, if you're experienced might be able to work something out.

The best climber is the best looking one.

Rainier is a funny mountain. As a triathlete, marathoner, climber myself, I have had great success on Rainier. I'm three for three so far on two different routes. Two of those were in very poor weather, and we were some of the only parties to summit. I attribute it to being damn stubborn and stronger than most. The first two times I did it I trained like an animal and did great. The last time I did it off the couch and everyone was calling me an "animal" for being so strong. I chalk that up to a good base fitness and good genes. I would not recommend getting on a two-man rope team with a novice that does not know crevasse rescue. Have I done it myself? Yes. Would I do it now? No. There is some very good, hard earned advice from all the other guys. Take the time to earn Rainier. I think it is a good goal (one that I attained) to be able to do Rainier without help from other expert climbers- IE- not being dependent on other people for knowledge, expertise, or assistance short of emergency help). Too many people just eek by, just a simple mistake short of disaster. Do yourself and everyone else a favor and get the experience necessary. It bastardizes climbing when you go through the motions without getting the experience. I understand that you have time limitations and I respect that. But don't expect to slide on through without any problems when you try to wing it. Just this last trip we turned around 2 people who were scared, inexperienced, under-trained, and unprepared for the hazards and challenges that Rainier can bring about.

Apparently cc.com is aid. Or at least it blows your onsite.