B Deleted_Beck

Well thank you wife for me- I probably wasn't gonna go if you guys went... :-D I'll let you know how it is.

Cant help you with conditions, but I was gonna solo it this weekend, myself.. What's your itinerary?

8/11/12 - The last bit of snow up the Mazama Chute melted out this week, and the summit ridge/crater rim from west of the Old Chute is completely bare through to Wy'East face. No snow path to the ridge unless you go way out to the left. People are still climbing, though...

I will sleep if I think I'm gonna be unsafe, but I don't think I've ever been able to take a 10 or 15 minute nap after a climb... if I pull the truck over, I'm gonna be down for 3 hours.

Who is Tyler, and what's the route?

Let me preface by saying I'm still pretty noobish too, but I think back-clipping and wrong-siding often get confused... back-clipping is where you run the rope the wrong way through the carabiner. Wrong-siding (yes, I made the term up) is just where you orient the carabiner gate on the "wrong" side, slightly increasing your odds of funky loading during a fall. With alpine draws, it's easier to back-clip and not realize it, because there's a lot more flop in the draw, and under tension, the carabiner will just flip around to the right orientation, making it look like all is good. Then when you fall, the tension is relieved, and the carabiner flips back around and CLINK.... you're no longer clipped. Just have to make sure that you run the rope OUT of the top side of the carabiner's most natural rest position, and you shnould be fine. Actually... yes? I think the two on the bottom ARE back-clipped, pcg -Ben

Newest climbing partner... Rex Benjamin, 8lbs 1oz, arrived 2:09am, July 25, 2012

Figgered I'd re-use this thread.... looking for a partner for same/same tomorrow (Sunday 7/22) I'm available after noon

Looking for some cheap used 'pons for use with semi-auto boots, possibly even running shoes (not sure how wise that'll be).... so hybrid or, preferably, all-strap Would really like to snag some chromoly (pre-stainless) BD Contact Straps PM here or email benjaminbeckerich at gmail.com Thanks, -Ben

Everything between Cooper Spur and the Cleaver is just what we call "The North Face," and her "Gullies," though it is, technically speaking, the headwall of the Eliot Glacier- so I'm not sure why "Eliot Glacier Headwall" is limited to the section from Cleaver to Cathedral ridge... but that's that. I think we've just grown to refer to the features of the mountain as the routes that ascend them. You'd think for a mountain as hugely climbed as Hood, there'd be better and more definitive names for all these features...

If things are getting more technical than you were espectin, a hammer will be a lot more useful than another adze.. I haven't bought one yet, but I intend to this fall. Also comes in longer shaft lengths.. http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/ice-axes/technical-mountaineering-ice-axes/sum-tec-43 BTW - Old Chute definitely doesn't require a second tool.. You can take whatever you want, but I chuckle a little when I see guys coming up a 40* couloir swinging two technical tools in piolet-traction.

No takers? I'm headed out for the day- gimme call/text

In my preliminary research, I came to the tenuous conclusion the Ptarmigan was the late-season alternative to Liberty Ridge.... not so?

I was thinking about doing this'un myself, probably 3rd weekend in August.. you wanting to overnight on route, or just single-push it?

Howdy Looking to do some easier trad tomorrow, in the 5.8 - .9 range.. just wanna work on placement- find some good routes with lots of pro and run laps Please be fun, competent on lead belay, and have necessary gear. I have a fairly comprehensive rack of cams and a couple sets of nuts... you don't necessarily need to bring and trad gear. I have an early meeting tomorrow, and MIGHT have to work for a few hours after, but can be ready to climb as early as 7, or no later than noonish. I can also probably pick your no-car-having-ass up, if you're on the way :-D -Ben four one zero four zero nine zero

Looks like 2 days?

Howdy I'm on a paternity sabbatical from alpine, or any far-away, climbing, with our 5th little boy due sometime in the next two weeks. The wife has requested I not leave an hour or so vicinity of Saint Helens, Oregon till the baby is here and settled in. I'm going flappin stir-crazy, however.... I feel like my forearms are about as big around as my thighs from running laps at the gym, and the closest I can come to adventure is Rocky Butte. I love Rocky Butte, but I really want to get up something higher than 50'.... Anybody know of any multiple pitch rock routes stashed away maybe someplace in the north Coast Range? Maybe up off 30 near the Columbia? Lots of exposed rock up there off the highway, but I haven't yet found anything climbable, or at least worth climbing. I'm guessing no, since I probably would have heard about it by now, but I figured I'd give it a shot.. if anybody'd know, it'd be somebody here on CC. Thanks -Ben

What kind of climbing are you looking at? Just long, hard walkups, or are you interested in increasing the technical level?

Just dinking around with it for 5 minutes, I much approve.

I've been tempted to post this cheesy question for a long time.. but now that I'm catching myself pronouncing it different ways, I gotta know... How the crap do you pronounce "couloir?" I think the French pronunciation is "coolyahwah," but aside from Frenchies, I've never heard anyone go there. I've personally been using and mostly hearing "coo'wer" for as long as I can remember, occasionally hearing people use "kewlar" or "coolar"... sometimes you run into somebody on the mountain who uses "culwer," "coyler" or "kewleer" Seems more people I'm talking to are going with "coolar," and I've caught myself using that'n lately, which, for some reason, I find embarrassing. Is it just a regional thing? I'd like to see if there's a local consensus here on the local climbing board... how do YOU pronounce it?

Awesome TR.. great pics, great route.. Well done

You should do a climbing TR in the Oregon Cascades section. Break that CC TR cherry

What's the Ol' 27?

I don't go up without poles. Sometimes I climb with guys who don't have poles, and I almost always end up loaning one of mine out. I have a pair of Leki women's (lighter than men's) Ultralite Titaniums with powder baskets... I don't know what they weigh, but it's probably gonna be less than half a pound for both.

This guy's as Left as you can get... Obama is moderate. No surprise there. The whole 16 minutes can be summed up in three words, for those of you who don't want to watch the video: Redistribution of wealth.