Eric K

The weatherman says that tomorrow will be our last day of sun for a while. Does anybody want to celebrate the end of this great weather by doing some climbing. I will go anywhere and climb anything Goldbar, Index, Exit 32/38, Leavenworth. I would also love to climb at Equinox, I know I live close to it but no one has ever taken me their so if you are willing to show me this place I would greatly appreciate it. I have gear and experience and will climb anything from easy stuff to hard stuff. I just want to get out before the weather changes. Give me a call 360-420-8920 Eric

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Trip: Washington Pass - DEB of SEWS Date: 10/3/2012 Trip Report: Josh and I climbed the direct east buttress yesterday and we had a great day out. We were in the sun until we passed the first bolt ladder and did not get back into the sun until we made the summit. During this time it was VERY cold and belaying these pitches meant lots of shivering in the cold windy conditions. After following the second bolt Ladder Josh commented that it was the first time he had ever gotten the screaming barffies without ice climbing! Josh following the first 5.9 The first bolt ladder just before it got really cold I tried to take a picture of myself to show how cold I was after the second bolt ladder and this is the best I could do Josh topping out The decent was beautiful and the larches are looking good Overall we had a great day out. There is still time to do plenty of climbing out there but it is getting cold fast, go get it before its too late. Climbing in the shade is still doable but I would highly recommend bring a puffy jacket and some belaying gloves. I lost two pieces of gear on the 5.9+ pitch before the bolt ladder. One red Camelot which I tossed into a crack I could not see but felt like the right size, and a nut which was loaded and set into position while previously mentioned Camelot was trying to be retrieved. These are the first two pieces of gear I have ever gotten stuck and if anyone can retrieve either of these for me (especially the cam) I will get you a six pack of your choice. 360-420-8920 Eric Gear Notes: Doubles from .5" to 3", one 4" is usefully and so are alpine aiders r Approach Notes: Up to gully and right

I am in need of a bivy sack and was wanting to know what you guys are using. I am looking for something which is really lightweight, and at least very water resistant. What are the best options out there? Eric

I wonder if this stuff would work? The videos of it look pretty cool. Neverwet Eric

I recently moved back to the US and landed in Mount Vernon. I am now looking for some local climbing partners. I will climb anything from bouldering at Goldbar all the way up to alpine adventures in the North Cascades and beyond. I have gear and experience, I just need to make some friends to climb with. I am currently not working so I can climb almost any time. Please send me a PM or give me a call if you are willing to invite me on your next trip. I will pay my way! I look forward to climbing with you. Eric 360-420-8920

.3 and .4 C4s will work fine but like some others have said I prefer other cams for that size. I love my master cams, they just feel super solid when placed. I have no complaints about them at all. They can get stuck or walk a little, but I have never lost one. I have not used aliens so I cannot compare, but I do like them better than C3s. I don't think that I would buy the largest two sizes #5 #6 of master cam again. Those are similar to C4 .5-1 in size and they don't have the expansion range. Eric

I will second the REI Flash 18. This is the single best piece of REI gear ever produced. Safeway trash compactor bags. Perfect cheap lightweight pack liners. Eric

Its kinda funny and not necessary at all. I did not like it the first few times I wore the pack, but I don't even notice it any more. I wouldn't let the reactive suspension stop you if you like the pack otherwise. Eric

Those look very similar to the Metolius Master Cam. Do they have duel stems? It looks like it on the larger ones but not on the little ones. Interesting. Eric

If we are going to start debating who is the best ever, may I be so bold as to say Becky. I can't think of anyone who has more first ascents. Even though he doesn't have the 8000m tick list his own list is pretty impressive even by today's standards. Eric

When I am on vertical cliffs with little or no chance of decking or hitting a ledge run out starts about 12 feet up. I don't have much trad gear so I regularly end up running out my gear just so I have enough to finish the pitch. When the climbing is easier than 5.11 I enjoy a good runout. Some of my favorite climbs have really dicey run outs that makes the climb memorable. Eric

What is your favorite climbing video which features Washington areas. It could be sport, trad, ice, alpine. I will get us started with this one because I think the production value is pretty good. Vimeo Eric

+1 for DMM. I have two dragons I got on sale and prefer them to my BDs. I have one set of C4 .5-4 and eventually I would like to have the same set in dragons. That way I have the benfits of both, but that will take a while since I only buy gear when I need it and my partners can usually cover any gear I don't have. In general I find every piece of DMM gear to be super high quality. I agree that wall nuts are the best but I also think their torque nuts or the best hexes around.

Do you have two sleeping pads that you could place inside. I am curiouser if it will fit two people better or worse than the firstlight.

I have done 4 nights climbing in my 40L BD speed. It is a super nice pack but I personally could go smaller without any problem. My next pack will be one of these... SummitRocket 30 , Scrambler ULT 30 Eric

Jetboil Sumo Ti looks like my next stove. It has the same pot size, a similar boil time/efficiency, weighs 6oz less, and it puts out less carbon. I cook in my tent so that sounds perfect. I hated melting snow with my friends old jetboil because the pot would never hold enough water. But I do like that the pot actually attaches to the stove. This whole system look much better to me, but I have not seen it in person yet though. Sumo Ti Eric

I will add my perspective, I think the biggest reason people are not flocking to Darrington is the fact that slab climbing does not have a lot of appeal. If Darrington was all vertical granite then I think the appeal would be greater. All many young climbers think about is pushing their limits and getting better. It is not very comfortable or easy to push your limits to the point of taking a cheese grater slab fall. Like all of you have said, the climbing in Darrington is spectacular and I would like to get out there and climb more. I think this area will remain a special place for those who have climbed there and will never appeal to the masses. Eric

I have a pair of SS sabertooth pros and climbed ice and alpine in them and have not noticed any issues. That said I may get myself a pair the petzl Lynx crampons if I were going to be doing a lot of mixed climbing just because of their versatility. Eric

This video is a gem

I just moved to Antwerp Belgium and am now eager and excited to get on some classic alpine routes. I know some of you have done some climbing in the Alps and want to know what guide book you recommend. I am mostly interested steep snow/ice and mixed climbs, but a comprehensive guide which also has the pure rock routes would be just as good. Also if any of you are currently living in Europe or plan on visiting at some point, send me a pm and we can meet up. Eric

Does anyone have any info on the boat accessed routes at banks lake. I would be interested in getting any info from anyone who has any to give. Thanks for your help. Eric

Great pictures, glad you had a safe trip and better weather than Mark and I had the week before. Wish I could have been free to make it on this climb with you guys. Eric

I was out there around a week ago. There was a guy taking some of his friends climbing. The problem was this guy knew NOTHING about climbing. He had about 5 quicklinks a rope, and a atc. He was using the quicklinks as quickdraws and clearly had no idea what he was doing. once his friends were done toproping 5 quicklinks up he began to self belay using a Petzl Croll. Once he was a few feet up I asked "How do you plan on getting down?" He told me he was making it up as he went, so I told him to come down. Then I climbed to the top of the route belayed him up to the top with me, and then showed him how to thread the anchors and clean a route properly. Hopefully he will be climbing a little more safely for now on. P.S. I enjoy fossil rock to Eric

I would be interested in getting some copies of it as well. Let me know if you can.