Eric K

Trip: North Cascades - Cutthroat Wilson-Cauthorn attempt Date: 12/17/2013 Trip Report: Back in November about a week before the Highway closed, Josh and I thought there may be enough ice to make a attempt on cutthroats east face. The approach was long and the snow sucked just enough to need skis. We were very happy when we made it to the route. We started climbing not sure if there would be enough ice and the ice we could see in the upper corner looked very suspect but we had made it all the way there so we decided to give it a go. Josh lead past the first little ice step which at one point had enough ice to take half of a 13cm screw. He found two sketchy pin placements before the next bit of ice. I lead up to the end of the ice, I could not find any place to put any gear since the rock was all crud. Since there was no ice left and no good rock in sight I down climbed back to the anchor and down climbed the rest from there. Josh pulled the pins out by hand so his anchor was really no good anyway. The climbing was not hard so we probably could have climbed it but we will wait until spring and have a bit more fun on the route. Gear Notes: If we had small cams we could have had a few placements Approach Notes: Skis

What are your favorite routes to solo in the cascades. I know everyones abilities are different so I am not looking for the easiest routes in the cascades. I am more interested in routes that have less loose rock or other objective hazards that you think were fun safe solos. I will start, Spontaneity Arete at WA pass was really pretty safe and fun. Just enough exposure and an easy walk.

I love my lynx but hate the heal lever. I was thinking of replacing it since the petzl version digs into my boot too much. It can become painful it it is worn long periods of time. I wanted to buy some grivel heel levers and use those on my crampons instead. Has anyone done this, is there any problems with this setup? Eric

Great video

The new petzl Sama looks real nice, but I know the petal Calidris is super comfy and I think it is a bit cheaper. Worth giving it a look. Eric

Has any tried the new petzl screw yet? Petzl Laser sonic Or the screw sharpener? screw sharpener

Anyone checked out death picnic recently. I wonder if it has filled in a bit more. I also wonder what the routes on Colflax are looking like. Eric

Check it out and report back. Weather is good for ice right now. Eric

Boot shape makes all the difference.

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^This^

I will toss another vote in for Spain. The time I spent in Siurana was the most fun I had while living in the EU. Cheap food, drink, accommodation, rental cars. You can't go wrong. South of france is also great that time of year. My advice would be to not move around too much. After traveling all over europe I wish I would have stayed put more, I could have gotten way more climbing in that way. Eric

What do you think the chances of good snow at wa pass this week? I may be heading out that way some time, let me know if you can join me. Eric

Good work, fun video! Eric

I live in Mt. Vernon and was looking to see if anyone wanted to start a regular carpool up to Vital Climbing gym in Bellingham. I would prefer it to be a morning thing and I can make most days work, let me know if you are interested. Eric

In europe I would regularly leave my car unlocked and glove box open so crooks could see there was nothing in my car. I guess I will need to start doing this over here. Or the WCC could hire a parking lot guard, whichever is easier. Eric

I would like to upgrade my Bd methods and get something lighter this year. I would really like to be under 1500 gram per boot. But I need a really wide toe box and most light boots fit real narrow. My first thought was to get a TLT 5 and see if a boot fitter can punch it out enough to make me happy. Do you have any other suggestions?

That sucks so much, I saw stuff like this when I lived in Europe but never thought people would do it here. Maybe some seattle people can contact local gyms and see if they know any people who may have done this.

Lots of good options to chose from. I am assuming you are looking for gloves for winter use. I have had great experience with the Mt Hardware Hydra. Snow seal the leather and wear all day. This last winter I always used the hydra and brought the bd punisher (another great glove) along but rarely needed a glove that warm. Lots of good info on Dane''s blog coldthistle just use the search button. Eric

Grabbed a copy today and I am very pleased. I thought I knew about most areas around here but I was wrong. nice work! Eric

What does that mean? They don't know when it will reopen, or DOT is giving up and letting the north cascades return to their pre highway wildness. Eric

I got one and I absolutely love it. I used to only climb with a helmet when it seemed necessary, but now I have no problem using this thing for general crag climbing. It is super comfy, lightweight and keeps your head cool. I have not had any large rocks hit it but I have had some small impacts and the helmet still looks new even after being kicked around a lot. Possibly the ugliest helmet every but my favorite one to wear. Eric

Sick! It will be nice to know some more info about all these areas I have been climbing at. nice work! Eric

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