kukuzka1

My brother and I got to below Boston basin in Jan 05? to attempt the FWA of the N ridge but unfortunately I had become sick. It was a during a major winter storm, but it did clear up for 5 bluebird days after... It would have been perfect conditions. We had to ski only about 2-3 miles of the forest road. to get to trail head. I also twice tried to solo east ridge of J-burg but did not summit. Is a spectacular area in winter. Great job!

Cool. Last photo is awesome! Little varmint. I rope soloed it in 93, although after the 1st pitch came to broad ledge. After looking at the crest I walked around right for 15-20+ft and self belayed a pretty solid pitch that deposited me on the large slabby rock. (5.8+ finish with a wideish crack). I thought the ridge crest seemed brittle with little protection that I could see? Finished it with rope in pack.

Yeah I seen that ice line above the N face bowl too, well worth a look for future parties. Index in winter... what's not to like?

Puts you and Colin's car to car sub 24 hour winter traverse in perspective although you did use aid.. Colin

Not exactly a hardman or in the 80's or in a assisted care facility yet but almost! good job finishing the crux pitch, I had twice tried to lead it and had to leave it, although I did top rope it. It's definitely some spicy climbing. I'm surprised you didn't see any of my gear I left(probably buried) although I liked the name I gave it a little better sorry about the huge photos, not sure what happened.

Don't give the rape bolters any ideas

The second photo is a great photo of the Index peaks, don't get that view photographed much.

Stuart West Ridge - more beta than you can use No kidding, you should of just told people where to put their hands and foot holds

That sexy photo of Goode shows the Beckey route(NE face?) It looks like it had a major rock collapse above the ice part, unless that's normal for how it looks in early Oct? looks kind of snarly, or the route could be a little left of that.

I loved this route, even if it was done in a major summer storm and we were benighted. Felt more like 5.9 to me although like with any route such as this many little variations are possible. Someone needs to snatch the FWA. Be a nice prize

Really? what routes dose Mr Smoot have for Buckner and Sherpa?

Looks like Smoot's to blame. People love lists did not read earlier comments so nevermind

Well at 5.11a/b maybe so but it would be 5.10 A1 if I tried it. hell these days probably 5.8 A1

Whats the grade? looks kinda interesting

Really? you can descend el cap with that many

I believe in early season it's because of icy places and snow covering some of the rap stations. Always thought of trying it in winter but never tried it. yet...

So you guys climbed left of the lower north ridge start?

"We left the parking lot at 8:00 AM, and got back at around 2:00PM the next day." WOW! espic

Well Kinda do because the I-VI grades are supposed to take into account the overall seriousness of a route, but a grade solely for seriousness is true

I do not know exactly where their route goes but I am guessing this is the aprox line as he mentions in the post when they emerged onto the north ridge they were surprised they missed the access gully to the upper north ridge and they were close to the gendarme. I think I have seen photo with some steep good ice in the lower ridge. PHOTO CREDIT ED COOPER Also at the base of the gendarme they finished on the NE face

Is an old school III+/IV and new school IV+ It's hard to give any climb in the lower 48's a grade of V with the hardest moves being 5.7 and mostly 4th class. Maybe in Canada or Alaska but....

http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990#page/80 Here is a link to the story, was actually in December not February and the route is called Surrogate Panama http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990

I have not been up there in a long time but at that time it (July 92) was cruiser up and we went down that way and there was a little rockfall, definitely not a place to linger, I believe we were un-roped. I'll check for some photos. Only a summit photo found.

I know the right most routes get pretty bad reviews but the 1963 route had good rock/pro and a few really nice 5.7ish pitches right before you hit the perm-snow up high. we did it c2c in about 14 hrs