-
Posts
986 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Tyson.g
-
first ascent [TR] Squire Creek Wall - Oso Rodeo 9/5/2011
Tyson.g replied to DavidW's topic in North Cascades
Nice you guys! -
So OMB did you use machine threaded bolts then countersunk into the face of the holds? We did quite a few that way but used lag bolts into 3/4" ply. Wow a drill press huh? Always just used a standard corded rotohammer and held the holds with my feet and drilled standing over them. In my first build we ended up drilling over 400 holds. Likewise to the post a few above, my rocks were from everywhere I used some dryvit slag from a job site for some holds by gluing them in place. I think at one point there was also a golf ball, tennis ball and the butt end of an axe handle used as holds.
-
I used a hand drill to prep myself for the real world!
-
For my small crimps and jibs I have used pieces that broke of some of the larger holds as I was drilling. I used a smaller bit and drilled two holes and attached to the wall with coarse thread screws. Do not be afraid of fairly round rocks as these can often make for jugs if the clearance toward the wall is adequate. I have also used expansion bolts that fit into the standard t-nuts and screwed holds in from the front using some creative strapping to apply enough leverage while tightening. Think oil filter wrench. Obviously these holds were most subject to loosening and required maintenance. I have used these techniques on vertical, overhanging and horizontal roofs with great success.
-
Nice Gene - you and Layton are a couple peas in a pod.
-
-
I have made all the hold on walls I have built by collecting rocks from various areas and using a roto hammer to install 1/4" expansion bolts. Of course this requires access to the back of the wall for install and tightening. I have real rock from basalt to lava and everything in between. I find climbing on real stone provides actual hold shapes and textures found in nature and they look way better. Pretty cheap too.
-
"Tim Carter stated that the reasons for choosing Guyana were the Temple's view of creeping fascism, the perceived dominance of multinational corporations on the government" That is kind of funny - Way out there thinking on that part huh?
-
No shit! I can totally relate!
-
Happy Birthday Sobo!
-
Agreed!
-
Nope.
-
Wow PeteH you are my HERO!
-
What he said! ymmv but .... Wild Country Zero's in the really smalls size (up to blue TCU) a mix of TCU's and Master Cams Blue to Red. A mix of DMM 4cu's, with 1x gold link cam and 1x Metolius Super Cam up to the #4 DMM 4 CU (Equivalent to an old #3.5 Camanlot or a new #4). I'm a big fan of the Super Cam. Always feels really solid, as easy to place as any other 4 CU and has a slightly increased range. The Link Cam is a nice toy, good as a 2nd piece in a wide range of sizes, but I wouldn't build my rack around them. The large DMM 4CU's are light, cheap, and reliable. I've used Dragons, mostly good, but I'm not a big fan of the thumb stud on any cam (old camalot, Link Cam's, and Dragons), but the size, action and weight are great. I've used tech friends I've used camalots IMHO a good rule of thumb is that quite a few people have successfully climbed harder routes than you on every brand of gear being bandied around here. None of it will hold you back, it's all solid and reliable. Bitching about differences between TCU's, Master Cam's, BD 3 CU's, Aliens, New Aliens, Dragons, Friends etc. Is like complaining that you got a got chocolate cupcake instead of an vanilla cupcake. STFU and eat you cupcake already, either that or give it to me!
-
Max is on target.
-
Snowmobile is the ticket for sure - Especially if you have a tow rope and can ski up behind. Pretty fun. If you are going up it seems a shame NOT to spend a night up there. It is sweet! There is a great TR on here. (last year?)
-
In the Winter - Take a high clearance 4x4 with chains! If you can make it off the 530 highway across the plow bank give it a go. I believe I was the last vehicle up last year in November and if it was not for my iron nerve and unsurpassed driving skills we would not have made it. My buddy went in the ditch with his jeep and there are many place on that road you would not want to come off! Other than the shit stain on my passenger seat left by my lily livered co pilot it was a piece of cake. Great spot in the Winter - Just be sure to follow the RULES if staying in the lookout.
-
Awesome! Nice pics.
-
Nice photos and TR.
-
Cool Pat! I listen everyday to that program. I look forward to hearing you.
-
Oh no buddy I am on to you. Sellers is a favorite of mine.
-
Holy crap! I just figured out how to use google search and figured it out for my self! Thanks Sobo! Now, what time is it?
-
I can understand where you and (Chomsky) are coming from j_b, however I would disagree on the condition of universality. Let us for sake of discussion replace "morality" with a term such as "personal code". Universality does not come in to play with personal code because everyones personal code is different. This could be said to be true both in cultural ideals as well in each individual. There maybe a "sense" of universality but it usually will only appear to be so within the group or society that buys into it. If universallity could exist anywhere would we not have world peace? We are all different even if we share "some" ideas we never share "all" the same ideas. But hell what do I know - I am just a simple maintenance man.
