Jon H

Just a followup... Bench grinding picks is slow business. After spending almost 10 minutes working on one of my Aermet picks and making minimal progress, I decided to try grinding down the same protuberance on a pair of old Titan picks which have the same shape (see pic above). Interestingly, the Titan seemed to be about as difficult to grind down as the Aermet. The dimensions are the same, but obviously the steel is [supposed to be] very different. On both the Aermet and the Alaska picks, I was able to grind the point down to a rounded radius, but that's pretty much it. Figure I took off 2-3mm of metal. Grinding the point takes all of 60 seconds, but after that, you make no progress whatsoever. I took off more steel in the first minute than I was able to do in the next 10. I think I'm going to go with an angle grinder to take off the bulk of the horn, then use the bench grinder for final shaping. Any metal-geeks here have an explanation for why the hardness of the metal increases as you get deeper into the pick? The thickness of the stock is identical. I'm not sure how these picks were made. Is there a Heat Affected Zone on the edges? Wheres Tvash when you need him?

That depends heavily on the more experienced people you know - experience isn't enough by itself. They also need to know how to teach. I've never taken a class or hired a guide. I'm too poor and too stubborn. I started young and learned mostly by being a headstrong idiot. The invincibility of youth is a magical thing. I'm still amazed I lived through my first 3-4 years leading in the mountains. That said, if you have the coin, taking a 3 day class from one of the established, long-time guide companies would be a great way to get up to speed. It's pretty easy to "learn" how to climb, routefind, place gear, etc. A good guide can teach you how to pull it all together and turn it into a polished system that will have you moving quickly and confidently over technical terrain. Above all, speed is safety.

PM EastCoastBastard. He lives there now.

I guess, since we started in 1972, we have a few years under our belts of not being cocksuckers. Sweet! Unfortunately I was just in Europe where climbing gear was usually 30-50% higher in cost than in the U.S., but if you sneak a climbing trip in with it and eat Ramen for dinner it might be able to break even. Good times. Handled with grace. Eddie, I applaud your efforts. I highly doubt any of the internet tough guys would walk into your shop and call you a cocksucker to your face. The internet is a magical place where pretty much everyone has a Napoleon complex....

I'd say that too, but they don't make them anymore. Got any more helpful tips?

Currently practicing EMT with a bunch of additional certifications (ITLS, etc) and also WFR. My standard first aid kit for most backcountry climbing days is a set of gloves, 1 roll of kling gauze, a 5"x9" trauma pad, and a ziploc full of ibuprofen. Total weight: 2 oz. I have about 12' of gaffer tape wrapped around my trekking pole. Everything else can be improvised...

I've got Aermet picks on my tools. Amazing steel, really. I've got a problem though - the shape of the picks. The top of the pick, above the head hole, protrudes a good 1/2" from above the tool head. It's shaped like the old Alaska picks. It looks roughly like this: More than once this week I had trouble cleaning the tool because the protrusion got caught inside an ice mushroom. I want to cut off that protrusion and round the top so that it cleans easier. I want it to look like this: How can I do that without ruining the temper of the steel? What tool/blade/cooling process etc?

Real simple: Is it a skiing trip or a climbing trip? Or in other words, what's your objective and which will you spend more time doing? There's your answer. The one notable exception would be if either the climbing or skiing are going to be particularly hard, then bring the appropriate footwear. If both are going to be hard... bring both!

Looking to buy a Flash 18 or similar lightweight 18-20 liter backpack. Happy to buy new (it's only $30) but figured I'd post here first to see if someone has one lying around. It's always better to recycle! Send me your price including shipping. I'm in NJ.

You've clearly put a ton of thought into this, and I would venture a guess that anything I write here won't actually do much to assist you, because it's a safe bet that you've already read volumes on the subject. Maybe try watching some DVD's instead? You know what will REALLY help you: 1 - Get modern leashless tools. Beg, borrow, steal them if you have to. You can still wear leashes if (for some silly reason) you want them, but the tools themselves are orders of magnitude easier to climb with and hold on to. 2 - Tag along for a day or two with some experienced climbers to holler beta up at you. Last season I started out barely scratching my way up WI3 on toprope and getting sketched out and pumped on any vertical section more than 15' high. I spent 2 days out with some really strong climbers who were also good teachers (this part is crucial!) who were able to critique my climbing, suggest different methods of body language, etc. You need someone to teach you what you're doing wrong and how to do it right.

I have a pair of RAB Baltoro gloves in size Small, very light use (maybe 3-4 days of ice toproping) that I'm looking to trade for a similar glove in size LARGE, or any other interesting trade. It should be noted that these fit large... they are probably closer to a Medium. As far as other trades go.... a C4 cam (preferably .5 or .75) or a modern 10cm ice screw (BD or grivel) would be nice. I could also use a tibloc, some superlight locking biners, one of those new BD lanterns, a lightweight alarm clock (my watch can't wake me up), a combination compass/inclinometer, some cool climbing books, etc. I'd be open to most any trades, just let me know what you've got. [img:center]http://us.rab.uk.com/images/resize/us/products/baltoro_glove_pr.jpg[/img] Here's a link to the info about the glove: Rab Baltoro If you have any potential trades, give me a holler. Will also sell for $35 + $4 shipping.

SOLD SOLD SOLD!

I was out on some ice last week with EastCoastBastard and we ran into one of the local Camp-sponsored athletes. He had a pair of X-ices with him. I took a couple swings and they felt nice, very balanced, similar to the old Quark. I remarked that I didn't like how small the pommel/hand support was at the bottom of the shaft and he informed me that it was a common complaint and that a new modular grip (in addition to the 3 that are on the market now) will be coming out next year with a full pommel, much like on the current Cobra or Viper. He also had a prototype pick on the axe called the "All-Mountain" which he raved about (and said he didn't like the current pick offerings very much) and thought it should be in the US by next year as well. Hope this helps.

This is a fantastic thread.

Another option is just trace out the bottom of each section of the crampon on a milk jug or detergent jug. Make sure to cut your new antibott a little large (maybe 1/8" to 1/4" larger on each side) so that it has to bend a little bit when fitting it inside the crampon teeth. Orient it in the crampon so it flexes downward in a gentle "U" shape (i.e. convex) under your foot when you're walking. This is so that as you're walking, it has a bit of flex and will dislodge any snow that sticks to it. Then punch a couple holes around the perimeter, attach with wire ties/zip ties, etc. Bonus points for adding a small grommet at the holes for extra strength. And you're done! It's free and also significantly lighter than the factory option.

Step one is probably to get your own boots. You can borrow anyone's ice tools (or crampons) but it's much, much harder to borrow boots.

There is a much more comprehensive tutorial posted (with pictures) on the TGR forums for molding Intuitions. It specifically refers to ski boots (obviously) but it's easy to adapt to climbing boots.... http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102575

Nope. Not Mark, just regular old Jon from NJ. The same Jon that's been posting for a year here. You've shipped a couple things to me at my full legal name actually

Just read Dane's posting on his blog... www.coldthistle.blogspot.com and do a search for "belay jacket" That should be most of of your info. I don't think anyone here is looking to write your thesis for you...

I have one single spare Aermet pick for sale. These were more than double the price of regular picks back in the 90's and haven't been available since then. Rumor has it that they stopped production because they cost over $110 each just to manufacture and BD was losing money with every sale. Due to the rare Aermet steel, they have legendary toughness, durability, and strength. It has some light use on mostly ice. A couple mixed routes but no pick torquing or anything like that. I'm not that tough. I would guess there is only 1-2mm of missing steel from the tip. Teeth are in good shape. $75 shipped anywhere in the 50 states. DROPPED TO $65! [img:center]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/95/90/106969590_medium_cb2ea3.jpg[/img]

No posting links to eBay sales. It's against the roooolz.

Cobras - New version or old version? Fusions - Green or Orange? (I'm not sure when they updated)

15 posts in 7 years... your PM box must be getting close to its 1000 message limit. Good thing you're being careful.

Anyone know what technical differences exist between the old Bibler vs new BD Eldorado tent? I'm specifically asking about the fabrics, but other info is welcome. I seem to recall reading somewhere that there are 2 versions. One is more flame retardant (as mandated by law), but heavier and less breathable... can anyone verify? If this is the case, how do you differentiate between the two? Also, the BD website currently lists ToddTex as the fabric material. Did they ever use eVent?

Sorry to hear about the theft. I might have a pair for you. 2 hammers, one of them is nicked from pounding a couple desperate pins. Pics are newish and in great shape, shafts have some scratches from mixed alpine routes, but Kolin Powick himself (head of BD's quality control lab) took a look at them and said they were perfect and that I was being a pansy. $400 is exactly what I was going to list them for. I'm thinking about switching to Fusions. Will let you know by mid-next week.