Lodestone

There was a good discussion a while back about resolers: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/722881/Resoling_Climbing_Shoes FWIW, I'm happy with the one pair of shoes I've had resoled by Ramuta. Chad

DPS, genepires, the prices you guys are quoting is not for a hole repair. In my opinion, if you can see your toes, it's time to retire the shoes. This is what Mountain Soles has to say about hole repairs on climbing shoes: "Please note if you have a hole that goes all the way through your rand and leather (so that you can see your toes), you might be out of luck. We can often fix these problems and it adds a little to the cost of a resole. However, if the shoe is in really bad shape we might recommend that you buy a new pair of shoes." Chad

Wow, great trip report. I got my reading done for the week. What would be the issue if that block that's bolted to the wall were to be trundled? I've never seen anything like that. Chad

You may want to do some cragging around Portland before your trip to Smith. Otherwise, you may be a bit overwhelmed when you stroll down the trail to the bridge for the first time. You have more than enough equipment to set up a top-rope off of a fixed anchor. With that said, you or your partner will need to lead the climb to set up a TR unless you are just going to sequester yourself to the Norther Point area. Keep in mind, there are often classes using many of the sweeter lines in this area. If you want to head out to one of the local crags sometime, sent me a private message. Chad

Is B for bask? The illustrations are great. Chad

Fun reading and great pictures Ivan. Thanks for posting. I may have missed it but what is this route? Bubbas In Bondage > Picnic Lunch Wall? Not that I have any experience with it, but it looks like Journey To Ixlan will get you that little extra mileage you desire by continuing up the highpoint in the formation. Although the description alone is making me sweat. Chad

Yes, the fee to bivy at the Park covers the day use fee. Unless something has changed recently, you can drive out of the bivy area and park wherever you want as long as your payment stub is displayed in the window. The Northern Point parking lot would be a bit of a walk from the bivy lot. Chad

Haven't had this problem with the three bi-pattern ropes I've owned. Chad

I disagree, finding the pattern change has always been easier for me than finding the center mark; particularly when ropes get older. Also, using a Sharpie to mark your rope is not a good idea. There are some pretty nasty solvents in these markers which can damage the mantle. Chad

Wow, impressive. How was the weather over the weekend? Chad

FWIW, the silver colored ones are available for $56.97 here: http://www.brms.com/petzl-grigri Free shipping too. Chad

I don't like the floppy-ness of the larger Master Cams. I use my red C4 quite a bit and have no complaints. Why are you wanting to replace your red C4? Chad

Those picture show a glimpse of what must have been an extraordinary woman. I'll think about her the next time I'm fifteen feet above my last piece and nervous. On a side note, those basalt columns are awesome. Chad

Can you explain this a little more? Also, how do you know the metal is cheaper on the new version? I don't doubt it, just curious as to what you are seeing or have heard. I wonder if Petzl will continue to produce the original Grigri for their tactical and industrial line? Chad

I agree. Whatever they did with the cam shape seems to have alleviated the on/off nature of the old device. Hopefully this will translate to less frequent reports of partners being dropped by panicked belayers. Chad

Wait...?! To clarify, you just got rid of that Gri Gri2 you JUST bought like a week ago? Yes, got rid of it. The one you fondled. I used it several times yesterday at Rocky Butte and it solidified my impression that it was not the tool for me. Chad

I haven't put much mileage on mine but it seems like a great rope so far. They are on sale at Everest Gear for $149. Free shipping too. http://www.everestgear.com/glbi9drytpt1.html Chad

It may not be obvious from the pictures but the cam on the new model is slightly bigger and the body of the device is smaller than its predecessor. The rope, any rope, has to bend at a tighter radius when entering and exiting the device. Try it out, let me know what you think. I thought that the 2 was going to be an improved version of its predecessor. What I've found is that it's better in some regards and good in certain applications but hardly a jack of all trades. A lot of people are going to love it. I just got rid of mine this afternoon. Chad

The forecast is looking good. Anybody want to get to do some cragging tomorrow? I'll be rope-soloing at Rocky Butte as a back-up plan but I'd much rather get out to Broughton Bluff, Ozone, or....? Let me know. Chad

Strangely, the official weight given by Petzl for the Grigri 2 appears to be heavier than the actual weight of the unit. Using my digital scale, the first generation Grigri weighs 224 grams (specified at 225 grams). The Grigri 2 weighs 169 grams (specified at 185 grams). I suspect that the scale is fairly accurate given that the official weight stated for the Trango Cinch is 182 grams and our hands-on "testing" clearly showed the Cinch to be slightly heavier than the Grigri2. Chad

Here's a few comparison shots. The rope in the second picture is 9.9mm. Chad

Which one? Chad

I really want to redpoint Chariots Of Fire. Finish a number of sweet routes. Lastly, be healthy and injury free. Chad

I've gotten to use my Grigri2 a bit and have formed a few opinions about it. All the reviews of it so far have been glowing and I feel like some reality needs to be injected into the discussion. When comparing the Grigri 2 to its predecessor the pros are: -Smoother lowering. I've tried it with several rope diameters and this has universally been true. I've yet to try the second generation on a wet rope; that will be the litmus test. I suspect it will be better than it's predecessor. -Lighter/more compact. The cons are: -The 2 does not handle fatter ropes very well. I've used it with 11mm static line and fat old gym ropes. It is hard to pull these ropes through the device and quite difficult feeding rope. -With more "normal" sized ropes (~10mm), it works just fine although the 1st generation still feeds these ropes easier. I've never been in to lead belaying with a Grigri but those that do might want to borrow a 2nd generation before spending the money. -The handle is shorter. Minor gripe. -The cam is shorted and harder to manipulate for feeding rope quickly. This compounds the rope feeding problem. -Although I gave up on TR-soloing with a Grigri a while ago, I really wouldn't consider it with the new model. It's so much more compact that the path that the rope takes through the device is more abrupt. I'll probably end up using the two models at different times. The old model for use with fat ropes and static lines. The new model for cragging. I'd like to hear other people's opinions on the new model. Chad

If this is Spectra/Dyneema you're talking about then no, you shouldn't knot them to make a sling, lanyards, etc. It's not about the knot cutting itself but that the material is so slick that a knot will pull through under a heavy load. What have you seen that has been knotted out of Dyneema? Chad