Water

Open to discussion/suggestion if my prices are stupid off. pictures: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxYl3RAqCQBbbS1sUTVWb1VoNk0# G3 Saints 170cm - 4 years old, dutifully waxed many times, cared for but topsheets show scuffs/wear. Had bases and edges touched up once. No core shots. A stiff ski that doesn't weigh too much. Only mounted once. $250. With matching g3 skins in decent shape, $300. Dynafit Radical FT - well, the toes are from ST but the heels are from FT, as my ST heels were under a recall and they only had FT heel pieces at the time. $300 Garmon Axon Boot - Size 26.5. Only have liners from 26.5 Dynafit One PX, as believe me, you don't want the original liners here.. - $75 obo take it all for $600?

Sorry I missed you Sir Seagal but glad to see you chime in. I'm sated for the next 6 years now!

very much appreciate the seasoned responses from both of you. That's my take on big country AK style with 2, you've got other means around with you (shovel, skis, ice tools). A second rope is the big key too. Gene: there was that wonderful video floating around of people trying to self arrest in warm conditions..I want to say it was a polish video in the alps but I'm not sure. Anyways multiple times, even when ready, the intensity really got people..doesn't bode the best. So to take this to its logical conclusion, in the context of something like DC or Emmons, like OP stating climbing with a friend (party of 2), ideal is 2 picket, 2 pullies, butterfly knots in rope, and tied into extra un-knotted rope for extraction. Off the top of my head don't recall seeing this much/often. Mostly 1 rope, often a 30m shortie, and a picket each (assuming 1 pully each), if so it seems the take away utility of that gear is simply, don't fall in and be non-ambulatory. Admittedly not a super duper common affair, but it does happen. Hell I have tried setting a picket while holding weight in a simulated arrest, in order to take weight off me and it was..not encouraging in hard snow conditions.

Hah, this comes up in my mind so much. ScaredSilly, I've never needed a picket on std. rainier routes, however I am curious when you say needed vs thoughts on value of having. What are people's honest 2cents about extracting a non-ambulatory partner from a crevasse, in a 2 man team with just 1 picket per person. From everything I can tell you are probably up shit creek, maybe even if you have 2 pickets. DPS: I see this constantly (bufferfly knots between two)..and I cannot say I've been able to do a comparo of falling into a crevasse with and without but I do wonder is the increased friction and possibility of a bufferfly knot catching/slowing on the crevasse edge appreciably more beneficial than the clusterf of attempting to extract using a knotted rope? I don't ask these questions to be a dick, they're two things I've thought about plenty and in both cases I find myself erring to (2 pickets) and no knots with a part of 2, but I would love empirical info/grounded edu if anyone can provide. I might just lean conservative in the mnts.

really not allowed over there? or just to drive to bird creek meadows TH? Believe you can get over to the mazama glacier just fine from cold springs TH, just a longer approach.. Quicker back to the car too.

yes you can get all the way to cold springs. damn the snow down low is going quick.

Not sure where you're getting that data (mountain forecast?) just depends on the weather but 63 inches of snow won't be falling at paradise or muir. And if it falls at the summit it'll all be blown away. If you have a clear weather window that will be significantly more of a deciding factor than any amount of accumulation this weekend, imo.

You may consider Adolphus Lake Camp which is part of Jasper National Park..it's about 5km(?) from Berg Lake main camp area if I recall correctly. Being on the far end of Jasper National Park also, you might be able to simply crash there easily without disturbance. 6 yeas ago we hiked the North Boundary Trail that starts at Mt. Robson/Berg Lake TH and goes north and winds a circuitous route around the outer margins of Jasper National Park.. Or frankly if you just walked North along the NBT a bit into Alberta I am sure you could find a completely serviceable spot to bed down sans permit/registration/etc for a night's sleep before the exit. though I do myself like having things lined up..

when we're talking about permits and passes, to clarify to anyone else reading, it's a Sno-park pass. why they're too lazy to include the w in snow eludes me. But as Ben said it is only needed Nov 1-April 30. The rest of the year there is no other item required to park. Technically you should have a wilderness pass filled out to venture beyond Timberline's boundaries but those haven't been stocked the last few times I was in the climbers cave. And i hate them anyways, a piece of wasteful garbage.

who can i send an email to? sternly worded but reasonable of course.

daaaamn. my quick reply does not do justice but I am sorry about the finger. The fact that you regard it some ways as a lesser of consequences of your fall is hard to fathom, but I guess a finger is more concrete than the 'mind' so that hits harder, but man that sucks. That said, this writing sounds more organized, focused, and mature than anything I've read from you. With zero intention of sounding or seeming patronizing, you sound like a man and not a kid anymore. Wish you best well for continued progress in climbing, bc skiing , and your health.

I too would be curious to hear. Hope you're well

this could be from a rock-band that melted out when it was practically late may conditions back in mid/early april that then filled back in with wind deposition in sort of a snowbridge manner? Definitely not a crevasse in traditional sense, but sounds like it could mess someone up. Could be from warm water flowing underneath (WAG)? I mean.. palmer isn't really a glacier anymore, it's a snowfield..correct? And white river glacier absolutely does not extend anywhere west of the ridge that terminates atop triangle moraine/SE base of crater rock. You'd have to go downhill to the east before encountering any glacier. Check this image from last summer's melt-out. above palmer there isn't anything that could arguably be considered a glacier until you get east of the ridgeline or about equal with crater rock.

while we're at it I know the proximity of an avy beacon on the upper reid.. though i suppose batteries have died by now.

nice. we were hitting this a week ago when someone in our party of 3 had a....umm..mishap, shall we say, causing us to have to scrap our plans and head back. very disappointing as it was in such wonderful shape. Anyways thanks for the TR. diepj did you rope for the reid? So I fight this one continually.. around early april, snowpack at maximum, if avoid berg and stay high or just at the upper terminus, i feel crevasse risk is almost nothing, esp if skis on. and once onto reid or leuth no need for rope. If it's early december, I'm roping up. Just seems crazy to bring full glacier accouterments for 1/4 mile of traversing. Anyways, great pics and i'll second on the first-what are you shooting with there? phone? point-and-shoot? dslr?

100% agree. one thing i might suggest, there is a hooded version (or was?) that my wife got me.. personally I love a hood. giving the dri-clime a hood made it SO much more versatile for me. Also the hooded version seemed to run a tiny bit longer in the torso which i enjoyed, the basic version i have is more like an 80's windbreaker and thus anything but standing upright it would ride up and not over waist/wrists would pull back. but totally agree about it, and until i had the hooded version i used the regular as my go-to for summer cascading..

took it. little laborious by the 5th item.... but hope the data helps.

caver, it's easy as pie, left gate (west) at least. whippet territory. though a standard axe probably nice. no step, just narrow for a spot, maybe a few degrees steeper. dunno about right gate (east).

what's wrong with this site, can't post more than a few sentences.. mug shot later. trying to post the CFR to make it clear to anyone reading. I've had someone tell me 'that's just national parks'.

Somehow I think this message would probably hit the offending member and future offenders if it was on instagram or outdoorproject's facebook wall.. but anyways PSA: it's not legal to launch or land your drone in the wilderness. You can fly it in wilderness as long as it takes off and lands outside of wilderness, same as someone with a helicopter, you can fly over a wilderness..but not land in it. i don't fucking care if you're going to get cool aerial footage of you and your crew jerking each other off at the summit, save it for the selfie stick. If I see/hear that piece of shit I'll try to take it down. What's the rules here on posting someone's picture out on the mountain? seems like every forum these days has their panties in a bunch about being nice. Here's one without the face, ice tooling it up on the slope we were walking face out on with whippets. I've got another with face if it's allowed, I'll post that.

not to cajole you into doing something unsafe, but if you were to wait for the sun to soften things up (aka around noon) you would probably be able to board down from crater rock under 'spring' conditions (aka uniform corn snow...not early winter chickenheads or variable windpack and powder pockets, etc). but you are correct it really sucks to walk down. Lots of people stash their board or skis above palmer. Thing is leave it well above the lift/cat track. If you leave it right there someone could easily take it and more likely the snowcat might plow it under while doing work. Just go about 100ft above to one of the first rime/rock outcroppings--generally find that a good place to stash.

Thatcher, I'm looking for similar beta for same time frame. Can you clarify 'open the route back up by then' - I realize there was a SAR event but have they actually closed certain climbing routes on the mountain?

Nice, thanks for sharing. I have done this trip twice this winter, once with a campout.. Should do a TR..I said I would on TAY.. You turned lemons into lemonade.. I find the low angle an easy approach but you really have to go higher for anything decent, the lower runs are very, very short. The skiing back to the car can be less than thrilling.. If I lived in Sisters or something ok, but to trek from Portland without gaining the SE ridge at ~7k, hard to sell me on that in the future.

Skiing?

I'm not sure the dates but did it? For the weekend at least Saturday showed promise all week then the limited window it was collapsed smaller on late Thursday and Friday's forecasts. That said there is a TR here of someone successfully climbing Adams on Saturday in bluebird conditions...