Water

beyond spectacular! On this list for this spring but that's just something to get after it this time of year. late night getting back to the car delirium can almost be fun, after a few days have passed..

throw 2cents out there.. Only can speak to Lowa but I really like the pair I have from them, the Mountain Expert. Would love to replace them with a new version, after 5 years they are starting to go. Find them to be great for Cascade peaks you speak of. step in compatible. Cheaper and just as functional as Weisshorn--you probably won't be doing much in the way of vertical ice climbing on the mentioned peaks if you're new to climbing. it's 7/8th shank Looks like it is in stock size 13-14 http://www.rei.com/product/866158/lowa-mountain-expert-gtx-evo-mountaineering-boots-mens

pete, you're quite the skier, please understand I defer to your more extensive background but i'm curious if you could elaborate more on the lessening of camber and how it may relate to gaining edge hold when scraping down something steep vs railing on groomers? My understanding is part of that holding an edge is not having too much side-cut, but also having some camber too. that voile vector looks good. You've got your split for the fun deep days, really any weight you can bleed off your feet = performance gains. You specifically called out volcanoes, I do think something 88-90 would overall serve you better than something 100+ would. unless you pony $ for the lightest fat skis they're still going to weigh more than something smaller. not to mention the skins on them. To answer your question you've basically got it about better grip up (smaller area of skin=more contact/pressure). And yes you would not want a ski tons skinnier than your boot but that would be into skimo race ski width (60mm) which i would not recommend as an all arounder. this is a great link: http://skimo.co/light-is-right

olymntboy was spot on with bit of tip rocker, and some normal camber under foot. Not sure I can speak to tail rocker as much but a little upturn at the back can be good for slip-sliding which as maybe a non-expert skiing you will do more of. the best volcano skiing, reliably imo, is in the spring-summer..you can easily get by with 75mm underfoot for that. That said. The 'fatness' of the ski if you go find a post from 2-3years ago people will say 90-100, now people say 100.. hopefully that is the top out. Maybe it's being more oregon centric but we don't get 2ft of blower powder.. i have a friend of your stature+ who runs 78mm underfoot and powder skis here on hood and he hoots and hollers with fun the entire time. Never seen it hold him back a bit. Has run those same skis off the top of about every volcano as well. More often than not in the NW you will be dealing with a lot of variable snow, esp. year round on volcanoes. Personally I think do not be afraid of something that is 88-95 underfoot, that ~5mm diff is not a make or break and it can save a lot of weight, depending on budget and such. That mm underfoot was spoken of as a fat ski 5-7 years ago. Smaller ski width = smaller skin area = better grip and less weight too. additionally if you are to hear arguments about what is 'easier' to ski on breakable crust and such should almost summarily be thrown out imo, because that just absolutely blows in the first place--you don't buy a 2ton pickup as your daily driver because 2 times a year you need to move a bed frame.. so.. 88-100mm underfoot, slight to moderate camber, bit of rocker/early rise tips, bit of tail rocker or upturned tail rocker optional. for your height probably 176? you could get by anything from 170-183 probably just fine.. 170 maybe a bit small but easier to deal with too. maybe you can plop $40 at a local place to demo some things--I did that before buying, was a bit helpful for sure--for instance I found a volkl nanuq great but dynafit manaslu squirrely. If I recall that came down to the nanuq having more camber, easier for a beginner skier to wield. not sure costs but both these weigh great amounts, the carbon synapse looks damn good frankly but the zenoxide might be a bit more of a workhorse and be easier to ski while you're mastering the craft? anyone feel free to correct me if i'm mistaken what I've relayed, i dove into bc skiing a few years ago so i'm no pro. http://www.genuineguidegear.com/gear/skis/zenoxide-carbon-93 http://www.genuineguidegear.com/gear/skis/synapse-carbon-101

nice pussycat

Ben, For sure there is no quick and safe of jeff. When flanks and glaciers are solid the pinnacle can be unprotectable rime. A friend used a bollard to rap off the top once.. oh boy I think the least technical way might be the S. Ridge as that gets you to the red saddle. If the traverse is melted out, then one could technically climb the mountain without ever donning crampons or using an ice axe. It is never more than 3rd class (? occasional use of a hand?) to get to the red saddle by that way. I've not seen/heard of someone attempting via west rib/milk ck without snow cover but guessing it is not nearly as 'safe' as the s. ridge in that regard. Though it does by-pass the traverse. I've taken a stab at the west rib up through milk ck--didn't top out (very very hot day..things got soft too quick, should have left earlier but it wasn't possible due to schedule). There is a solid climbers path that veers to the NORTH milk ck drainage before it enters the main stem of the creek. (that emphasis for anyone who might ever read this..as I see reports of people go right up the gut with less than thrilling results as it is a horrid terrain trap from natural and goat induced rockfall on either side, stream-undercut snow/bridges, and massive avy run-out exposure.) Scared have you ski descended it? as we came down I thought how beautiful much of the lower rib would be for a ridge-line ski descent..in the right conditions.

great before/after shot between yours and scaredsilly. had you posted this TR without the caveats and invite for crit I don't think it is that terribly damning at all--nobody would know your background (or lack thereof) about glacier travel. August on JPG yes is probably out of season (just as about any glacier route on Jeff..whitewater might still go?) but it isn't stupid crazy (like NF hood in august) imo. I simply enjoyed the TR and the pics of Jeff-some of our non-hood Oregon 'canoes don't get enough TR love. After this trip guess what isn't brand spankin' new to you anymore? Glacier travel. Just keep after it and those skills. Continue to glean information from your sources and test as necessary (ie...do you prefer ascenders to prussiks, like to use a self-tending pully or to throw a biner in there to keep it clear, etc) At some point if you don't have a person to learn the glacier stuff from you've either got to pay for a guide, a climbing intensive, or wade through a lot of nonsense in a basic course from one of the non-profit climbing clubs to gain a few glacier travel morsels of information--or you do what you did, at some point the theory and book learning gets applied. Being as you spent a full day before scouting/practicing, what more can you do. All things equal, the very best training for an activity is actually doing the activity, everything else is just a substitution of lesser adequacy. How did the CR practice go, did you feel like setting up a simple Z rig worked with two helping up top and one down in? I do agree with what SacredSilly said about getting after it earlier. Unless it is all rock, get on that snow under dark, like hitting the berg at first light. But given your glacier background maybe truly the more prudent choice for ya'll was to wait for light to step foot on the glacier. one comment, absolutely up for debate, looks like ice axes girth hitched to harness (can't see for certain)? Maybe just did that to secure them during a rest break (smart). But I see that done lots in general. Makes it easy to change from side to side depending on uphill slope. I don't know there is any official consensus, unlike that your crampons should fit securely to boots, but i personally have misgivings about having an ice axe tethered to my core. In the event of a non-arrested fall, I am not sure i would gain control of it while secured there any more than if it was attached around my wrist. Maybe on my wrist it would come off in an uncontrolled slide? it could still come in proximity of my head but i'd like to think my arms would be outstretched? Somehow being so securely attached to my core it seems like in an uncontrolled fall it becomes an uncontrolled weapon bouncing, impaling around my most vital areas, until one would stop. maybe at the end of the day it really doesn't matter, if you're in a fall like that in the first place something or someone fucked up. cheers

this was fun. good game fairweather.

Big Mitch, It is certainly true the road closes due to weather at times. It is much too long to go into here to explain. But suffice to say the weather is absolutely not the sole reason the road stays closed/doesn't open/doesn't open in time. Read up if you'd like to know more. http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=26113.0

truth in that it may not be open for days at a time. however to clarify, at times, the weather is entirely unrelated to accessibility, there is a political process/component to opening the gate.

based on your experience thus far, and assuming you have a solid hiking/backpacking background don't waste your time taking a long drawn out 'intro to climbing' class..if the mounties are anything like the mazamas, 95% is trash unless you've literally never done anything more than walking a mile in flipflops to a waterfall. can you wear crampons and use an ice axe? if the answer is yes keep on with helens, adams, maybe find a friend or keep partner hunting and give something like hood a go where you can get a bit more steeps. read, research... or if I had to do over again and I had the $ when I didn't know as much as I wanted, taking a 3-5 day intensive with one of the SEA based climbing/guiding co's would have been worth it.

i've sometimes used a pressurized bottle (like that tonic one..) to use the pressure to lower the freezing point..but had unintended effects with a super-chilled liquid that suddenly has the pressure released = instant slushy!

entry cost?

re: insulate hydration tubes use the bogus cover and diligently blow back so that liquid is cleared from the line-i've found that to be a solution in the mid-20's. You could also open one of those stick-on body "sized" chemical heat packs on it maybe a few hours into a trip, if temps are really low. Haven't done that but seems sorta plausible..never had luck with those heat things though..they dont seem warm when I need them and then driving home they'll be fire-hot in the car 14 hrs later..

it is partially stuffed in that picture.

The most important is going to be consistency. If you're a very fit person (workout daily/one+ big thing a week (like s.sister)) who eats healthy and you take two weeks of october and three weeks of february, and a week in june and july each where you don't work out at all, you drink lots of beer, and eat unhealthy. That will generally have little effect on overall fitness. The same applies going from sedentary/less active background, the exercise has to be consistent. Any weightlifting you can do to help build muscles--that'll help burn fat more than cardio alone. Good luck!

I didn't see any discounts--proceeds benefit AAC i don't think there would be any discounts.

Ben's point is really good--the decisions you make before you even go have a much bigger effect than a lot of in the field choices. Things are rarely a clear yes/no though. An unexpected slip or such somewhere sketchy is unfortunate and may not be able to be anticipated at all.. But climbing alone, as a weather window closes (or never really opened up), without a being able to keep yourself warm, or quickly alert help, etc,..those are all decisions you can make before you leave the house. I know you asked about snow safety but this is applicable to all climbing decisions. Regarding the mountain proper and snow, almost all the moisture that makes snow on the mountain comes from the West (or SW/NW), this generally means a W wind and loading on East facing slopes (West Crater Rim, standard route east side of Crater Rock, WyEast, Cooper Spur.. among places). That said when it gets sunny and cold right after (as it is looking to do now) and there are very strong East winds, you can get the freshly wind loaded stuff blowing right back onto the wind compacted West faces. One other factor is this latest bit at least at 6k started falling while it was ~15 (lighter drier snow) degrees out and finished when it was ~30 (wetter heavier snow). This is a little upside down, you rather see the big wet stuff fall first and bond with the existing base and the lighter stuff come at the end as the storm tapers off--as a general trend. So to answer your question, SS is probably one of the better winter options--though again the route absolutely gets wind loaded in the lee of Crater Rock. If you're looking to get out this weekend gander at Helens--south side and you can avoid a lot of terrain traps staying on ridgelines. And compared to hood, it's been basking in the sun all day today--and tomorrow--and will be on sunday too--a bit more time for things to settle.

raw telemetry straight from the mountain: http://kantola.nl/plots/osotim.png it eased from 50 down to 40 today but has only in the last hour even dipped below 30. still gusting to 45mph. At 15 degrees.. bundled up maybe it's nice to get out but even more than rain, cold, heat, wind can be a real bitch. Mountain-forecast has 25mph winds at 5000ft coming out of the NW.. I don't so much trust that site, that's stupid, why would they list a west wind? It's coming out of the E at Timberline and East-Northeast at the top of magic mile. Then they said East wind at 5mph at the summit.. If there is a 40mph wind hitting the East side of the mountain, there is no way in hell there is a 5mph wind at the summit. They have 10mph wind out of the Northwest for the 8200ft level--again, real stupid. Either a computer just extrapolates these or the people involved in producing them are doing a poor job, either way does not help a climber. Sorry not an attack on you just I really hate chincy weather sites like that and weather.com and such. if you can believe it, it is actually warmer and less windy at 10k on Rainier at camp muir than top of Magic Mile on Hood. http://kantola.nl/plots/osomur.png Goes to show the proximity to the cold inter-continental air coming through the gorge.

expect insane wind. it's been averaging 50mph at 7,000ft on hood for the last 12 hours, gusting to 65-70, never dropping below 40. i am sure things are frozen 'tight' together up high.

Make your voice heard: http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=323&projectID=55063&documentID=62342

hear ya swim for cardio? Can you bike/stationary bike? I had foot surgery in the midfoot this year and biking i think was first cardio i was cleared for. Elliptical machine after that. Rowing machine? anything with your core. Isometric exercises. If there are any machines that you can work your gluts/quads (thinking the kind where you put the bar across the front of your ankles in a seated position and lift it up, or behind ankles and pull it down). likewise inner and outer thigh..can probably do planks on either side assuming stress fx isn't on 5th meta (sure as hell hope not). I always do as many roman chair knee raises..no foot needed. dips. end of the day better to miss one more month of 'climbing' or exercise like you desire, than to push it too early and risk having really prolonging it. But you're a fit active person, just adhere to your body's voice and ignore your brain when it tries to bullshit you into doing more than you should. best of luck.

thanks for sharing. that's real sad. i dont think this pooch is anymore. the window was the day the dog was lost, and maybe a week after.

seriously, wtf. im absolutely not a violent person but this writing style needs a punch to the face. obviously boogie man story/blair witch bs. it does read like the OP