Water

i won't jerk my knee until i see an actual survey map of the cut area(s), expected traffic/road impact, and closures. This reads like BS as is. Name me a proposed logging area in any national forest and I will spout off some trailheads/trails/campground in general vicinity.

unfortunately the entire south side of adams has been closed for a month and a half or so. There was a large forest fire that burned the south climb trailhead and much of the forest along either side of the road up to it. I know that some access was lifted last week on the north side but at this point accessing that is going to be difficult let alone route selection and stuff. weather doesn't look great (today is actually nice..) so chances are you will be in a cloud or whiteout. If you don't get any partners you could consider going up st. helens. Like i said in a previous thread this is probably the most sketch time for climbing as there is relatively little snowpack, but enough to mask some hazards. additionally as we roll into november this is the period we often get very strong storms. hope you enjoy being out here -- consider something else the PacNW has to offer if none of the volcano climbing seems to be panning out.

i've never really comprehended how the system would play out on very steep, hard snow. Say my partner weights 50#s more than me as well. They're leading going up a steep and there is only 1 picket in pace. Or consider two pickets placed. I guess it all depends on how much rope is out from the last picket to them, rope in total, etc, but would the elasticity in the system and their friction be plenty to prevent the 2nd person from getting yanked up to the first piece of pro and having it pop up? A vertically pounded picket is great when the forces are proper but anything else and they just go flying.

of the two climbing partners i've had from montana, both seem immune to cold and have power of an ox. its like they were forged by eating rocks at -40 below.

ulvetano: so right now is probably the most borderline time to climb, on account that the amount of new snow is enough to mask all sorts of hazards but not enough to protect from them, aside from all other variable conditions.

1 person on scene said helmet was on 2 persons on scene said no helmet ??seems like there isn't lots of grey area, other than perhaps helmet on with loose chin strap or something like that. hope for a good recovery for the guy, regardless of circumstances.

all these peaks have native names still used by people alive today, related to people (however distant) who named these mountains first. Wy'east, Loowit/Suek, Tahoma, Pah Do/Klickitat, Seekseekqua, Shuksan, Kulshan, Takobia. shasta maybe a candidate..

current conditions report to top of palmer from this weekend: http://loomisadventures.com/blog/hiking-mt-hood-during-first-snow-storm-season N joy

thanks for reviving this with the season coming upon us. I'm considering going down the vapor barrier direction--a sock or just a bread-bag around the outside of my foot for any winter-tours. Last year was my first year and it was mostly spring-stuff. The boot liners get absolutely swamped, keeping them dry in winter on a 1-2 night thing seems like a higher priority. on the hot-spot front it seems like locking down the two lower buckles really made a difference. I'm going to try to stick with my heavy (3.5lbs/boot) boots this season before i throw more cash down, it'll make some TLTs or Vulcans that much more appreciated.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1084866/gonew/1/Free_70m_rope_available_on_Pru#UNREAD

aren't you the guy who spilled coors light on your slings and wanted to know if they were safe?

on that line depending on where in the 'midwest' you are...depending on what geopolitical, weather, or football alignments that can be anywhere from SW Kansas to Eastern PA. But a lot of the area is within a 3-day-weekend drive of the White Mountains in NH. While you do not have high-altitude you have elevation gain and plenty of cold to fool around with in the winter time. Might be a way to get more experience if you live in any reasonable proximity vs a single 'pop' a year flying to the west coast.

i could have told you it was 5.15c just by listening to the grunting at 2:38 in the video. thanks for sharing

i think that gets called a snowfield then, but i'm being a nitpicking doooooosh. It does melt out though. as of 9/9/12 there was no snow left: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1081973

...navigate the site here a bit. We have a climbing partners forum http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/forums/12/1/Climbing_Partners

upper glacier on terrible traverse?? whats this glacier? there is a snow field but the last report I saw of 3sisters traverse it was pretty tiny not much left..might be gone now. imo if you are nimble the bowling alley feels far safer (when dry) to me than the traverse area when it is snow or loose rock, assuming you're not a gorilla trying to do pull up to get to the top. Though last year there was that nice moat between the snow and the summit block that was very safe, though going down from the moat to the bowling alley was probably the crux of sketch (more than bowling alley). yes if you are asking maybe solo ain't great. i am unthrilled about the fire unless it makes it even easier to ski direct line from N. Sister to the trailhead this winter..

damn that sucks.. i bought one for my wife for xmas and she absolutely loves it, would be pretty bummed to have lost it. might be going there this weekend, will keep an eye if so.

trust your gut. if you're meeting partners off the net, be willing to put your foot down hard at any point on a climb of whatever sorts if you're getting a major sketch-factor from the situation/partner. but that said on your end communicate as clearly/honestly as possible about your ability, interest, and level of comfort. research your mountain pursuits and solicit feedback from AAI, partners, online on any questions/thoughts. If you can pursue anything with anyone who was in the class with you, that is a good place to start probably.

http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2012/09/24/washington-state-parks-forced-into-competitive-business-after-funding-cuts/

at a gym?? I am pretty sure he is going to be doing a wilderness promotion of the book at the base of infinite bliss

hmm.. similar accomodations.. that was a great first place to check. if money is no issue tline lodge would be the bomb-diggity place to stay with the pool, hot tub, sauna, incredible buffet.. otherwise maybe a cheapo motel type thing in sandy?

Ben, you obviously need an archwood phone. call them up see what they have. really aside it seems like people have great success with the various genius phones at least on the data-transmission side of things. buddies have done all their FB shiz from camp schurman on the east side of Rainier, all over hood, etc. I have an ancient flip phone and it sometimes does that struggling attempt at making a call even though it has service. but i've seen really good success with those new genius phones. in all honesty doing the txt/fb/email route for family and biz is probably easier than voice, yea? also lets you compose your communication on your own terms vs at the moment of tenuous voice connection.

Yo meego. right now its all closed and shiz... the fire on the west side of the mountain. I think there are still vehicles 'stuck' at the trailhead--not safe for them to drive down due to fire hazard. entrance to north sister 4 vehicles got torched as well..no bueno. both of them probably done for from traditional routes until further notice (aka winter)

cookiejar.. hmm well i will admit two things that helped 1) gps 2) someone in front of us that said it isn't some brain science to do it. I fretted over that aspect after having read so many train wrecks in that section (lake ann to top of the proper chimneys). The google map satellite shows the trail and is actually quite accurate as a starting place. -you never lose elevation in any place where the route-finding is unclear. the only place I saw elevation loss was on clearly demarcated paths along route. And it was only for 10ft or something. You start to lose 30+ foot, wrong way I'd say. -starting off from lake ann... its all obvious trail until you get to a small gully that can be a stream if there is melt from above. you go up at this point scrambling for 50ft (approx) and regain clearly demarcated trail. if you find yourself trying to traverse slabby rock with a cliff below, you need to go up before this. so 1st, you get a mini thing of climbing thinking 'this is it.. but it is just a mini preview..you have more trail ahead. -from there I you are traversing talus/snow field. At the end of that a moat (when we went..dry later season I am sure) and you begin the chimney area in full. Almost the entire portion has clear foot/goat/climbers trail. Any time you are evaluating which way to go and one way has all green vegetation that looks undisturbed and the other has bare rock and they seem similar difficulty, opt for the bare rock. if its vegetated it means it is not the way. -midway up there is a trail that veers more out towards lower curtis glacier and i think a bivy spot (i did not investigate). something to keep in mind. -there are sections where you can probably go 3 or 4 different ways in the same small area. you will end up in the same area above. the climbing is all about the same, one will be slightly easier one will be slightly harder. -if you feel like you've ever moved above class 4 scramble territory, you're off route, imo. -it sounds more complex than it is if you pay attention to some basic tenets and environmental clues.

Trip: Mt. Shuksan (Mohican edition) - Fisher Chimneys Date: 8/11/2012 Trip Report: First saw this climb in 2008 before I'd done anything more than stuff on the AT or a few Oregon scrambles. Needless to say it stood in my mind as a beacon of climbing aspiration. Having done it I'm sure it was well within my abilities a while ago but it still feels spectacular to accomplish something I'd kind of dreamt about for a while. Plans last year fell through due to weather. I managed to come across so many reports of train-wrecks on the chimneys or the approach that I studied it fiercely and got ample feedback from a handful of CC'ers (thanks much) Uncas and Hawkeye joined me (Chingachgook) in this pursuit. We stayed at a motel in sedro-woolley on friday night. Self-issued permits in Glacier. Managed to run across a guy Ryan from DC who was actually in the planning for 2011 that fell through. Since then Ryan has stayed with me in PDX and attempted hood. So seeing him by coincidence on the route was fun. We had an open bivy on a rock outcropping with 360degree views right at the edge of the Upper Curtis Glacier. Up there by 2:30 or 3 and took a nap for a while. Wonderful spot to be watching the Perseids meteor shower. Running water from the glacier was luxurious to have. views from camp: Uncas and Hawkeye supplied some fine firewaters (whiskey and wine) for the group The rest of the trip was uneventful. approximate times: Left camp at 5:00am, summit and down by 9? back at camp at 10:30? ate and relaxed a bit. Car at 5:30? Home before midnight back in Portland.Contrary to all other climbs I've done, I was so focused on not screwing up the approach or chimneys that I had no idea what the total gain was, elevation of camp, how high Shuksan was, or what the mileage was. Humorously caught me off guard since I normally have these things committed. Climb was in great shape, had a blast. Escaped from the Huron. Hawkeye killed some bad folks. Had a brush with Magua at the base of the summit pyramid. Rapped 2 short spots on the chimneys more out of fun and being safe than feeling like it was required. First time climbing in the North Cascades, blown away by the beauty! We also managed a video that should be seen far and wide. Cross-posted by user MajorMajor as TR here as well. Gear Notes: 30m rope 1 ax (brought 2nd tools but did not need) 1 picket each crampons trail runners with strap-on crampons woulda been nice Approach Notes: just pay attention. do your research ahead of time. Don't do it in the dark if you've never been there.