YocumRidge

Interesting to know, Dan, we have similar tastes in bailout choices. I'll get a steel cable for Patrique next time.

Nice sendage on Abraxas! I bet much more satisfying than soaking your ass on Hoodie in that tent of yours that does not leak. Although the reproduction of the NEB on J-burg did not work out according to the plan, we did excel at the successful self-rescue. Good times! Ivan flying down into the abyss off this creation: After the successful landing: OryGun: Patrique clearing out the bivy site on Languille Crags on Hood: Patrique on the top of Anderson Rock: Our Burfday Boy heading up to the Coe's Icefall:

Not sure why but I love the pile too...It is less ugly in winter/early spring though, with rime covering up the chossfest - a truly metamorphosed peak. You should try the rimey North for a change when you get bored of choss. Awesome pics, Matt!

The proper name should be "Nematoda plus".

Keep up the good fight and never give up, Dane!

Left at the base of Cruising or on the upper pitches of Young Warriors, possibly fell off the rack. If someone finds it, please contact me. Thanks in advance.

Likewise props to Arcteryx - in particular, the R280 harness. No problems with weight load pressure, even while belaying Ivan's outstanding persona that weighs nearly twice as much as I.

Gawd no, - in the Patrique's carriage that he delivered from Seattle and transported Ivan and I - almost successfully - to the permit-zone-law-abiding undisclosed location on the FS 3512 where we were almost killed by dashing cossacks in the approaching 4x4.

Cool, and what a soundtrack! Patrique, no mattress from the WWII hospital this time?

For as long as you learn how to spell my name...Your russian writing skills are progressively degrading these days

The one that makes him lead harder pitches

Thank god for the thermarests we were able to stay afloat in that flooded tent of yours Steel and Fires above the Coe's Headwall:

Brings to mind of Greek gods and goddesses and how they sometimes turned people into trees. Mushrooms? But of course - your acquired taste!

Oh well, another one got reincarnated! IVAN on J-BURG:

Yep, Cody is being trained to rope gun my weak and shaky ass up the steep ice.

It is almost that time of the year again. ... North side rules: New snow on Eliot at 6000': New ice on Eliot at 7500': Even the dog is stoked:

I wouldn't mind shooting that finger off. I always knew that, Muhammed Abdul Ivan

Dan, for whatever the obvious Ivan is doing his best:

To Ivan:

Trip: Forbidden - West Ridge Date: 9/12/2011 Trip Report: So, west ridge on Forbidden, another NA classic that everyone raves about and that I never seen in person until this last Sunday. My friend Nick and I climbed it car to car after getting 1 hr of sleep at the TH for Boston basin. Feeling like tourists with day packs, we reached the base of the West ridge couloir in 4 hrs. The couloir is currently broken up and out of shape for the season: Good morning J-burg! Fueling up before heading up the cl. 3/4 bypass gully next to the moat: After stashing crampons and axes in the moat, we begun soloing the aggressive gully (must be another classic on its own) when part of its left wall produced a refrigerator-sized manky relic (I am fairly sure being a transplant from Oregon cascades) which missed us by a couple of inches from sending into the abyss down below. At this point, we roped up and simul-climbed the classic gully to the notch and then the classic ridge. Getting up on west ridge: Finally happy on solid rock: Approaching west summit: On the east summit: Boston glacier and Buckner on the background: Looking back on west ridge from the east summit: Downclimbing and rapping (with one stuck rope) west ridge turned out to be more time consuming than going up but the only available option. The setting in sleep deprivation was really wearing us out by the time we got back to the car but was well worth it in the end . Gear Notes: Small alpine rack to #3

Nice run and good beta, Steopa! Routefinding? Ha, did you see me waving you from here:

Thanks all for the input. Having visited the NCNP over the last weekend, I stopped at the Glacier RS to thank the staff again and was told about the error in the start date in our permit. Due to adverse weather on Sun 07/31, we did not start the Nooksack approach until Monday 08/01 with the permit being issued for Sun-Tue (07/31-08/02). However, we did deliberately drive from the Nooksack Cirque TH to the RS that Sunday (no cell reception) and requested the permit change to Mon-Wed (08/01 – 08/03) which was granted but NOT entered in the park’s computer system or our actual permit. Did we know the heli was going to be sent out on Thursday morning (08/04) while we were on the way down from the summit pyramid to FC and 1 day past the “revised” return date ? NO. Obviously, if we did, I would have found ways to prevent this one way or another.

Nice effort guys! I second what GB said though. FC is class 3-4 with the obvious rap slings in both left and right variations. It sounds like you guys were off route if you went up 5.6/5.7? We descended FC 2 weeks ago when the route was partially snow covered and the rock was wet but with a good tool it went pretty smoothly. I would however add that the second moat on the deproach to lake Ann was less straightforward and required rapping down in the moat in crampons and then getting up and over steep snice sections to get to the snow covered boulder field above.

Nice work guys!

Oleg, thanks for the inspiration, man! Soon, when I will get on a path of permanent dirtbaggery, I will consider this.