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keenwesh

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Everything posted by keenwesh

  1. thanks, I did prusik in 2 days last summer, it took like 4.30 to hike the 10 miles in. wondering if the hike is as easy in the snow.
  2. okay, march-april is when I want to get on that, how's the road? is it a realistic goal to try and make it in and out in 2 days? also, avalanche conditions, I really don't want to get caught up in anything on that route.
  3. Yeah, I want to know conditions too.
  4. well I assume a 5.12 slab is an excellent place to learn!
  5. the olympics are terrifying, you never can fall, because for one, gear is sketch in shitty basalt, and two, there aren't any cracks to place gear!
  6. check your PM's, I really want that tool leash!
  7. Carful there young’n there is new sport climbing 20 minutes drive from OLY with a 10 minute approach walk, could be overbolted, wouldn’t want to go betaless like the rest of these crotchety old arm chair climbers do you? wait what? fossil rock? can you climb there in winter? or are the developers keeping it on the DL? as for my stance on endless bliss (at e38) the climb itself is fantastic! the stone actually is almost like velcro, but with the inflated grade (I'd say it's barely even 5.8, when it was originally rated 5.10) and myriad bolts, that fantastic slab is taken away from. compare it to west country on stately pleasure dome in toulumue. it's 5.7, but the bolts are 20+ feet apart it's really cool to get to the top of a pitch and look down and see only 5 quickdraws, as opposed to looking down a shorter pitch and seeing 15 clips, with even more bolts in between that you skipped because you don't own that many quickdraws. I have not climbed IB, but I want to this spring, my last try at it ended before it had begun, at the gated road 8 miles from the taylor river bridge at 5.30 in the morning.
  8. who bolted endless bliss at exit 38? that thing needs to get some bolts chopped on it. it's like 5.8 slab and if you clip every bolt you never get above them! I think that takes away from the fun of slab climbing, when I did it I had to skip every other bolt and I ran out of quickdraws on the 130 foot "pitch".
  9. IB has created a hell of a shit storm, no one likes a shit storm, therefore, no one will put up another rap bolted route inside of a wilderness boundry. chill out, just the knowledge of some pieces of metal in a 2500 foot high piece of rock shouldn't have this much effect...
  10. also, it would be sweet to have a partner who leads 5.12 in squamish...
  11. hey mark, I'll climb TC on dragontail this spring if you want a partner, I can lead 5.10- trad on a good day. but that was last fall, I've been training hard all winter at the gym, and I've climbed the N face and NE buttress on chair. I've been looking at TC since last summer, it looks really good and I'm itching to get on it. have you looked at the west face of colchuck balanced rock? http://www.ericandlucie.com/Leavenworth/Colchuck%20Balanced%20Rock/Colchuck.htm I'll be your belay slave if you want to try that one out this summer...
  12. I think most parties do that section of the route in the dark... you'll probably have no trouble if you scout it out beforehand.
  13. so it can be super crowded all the time? keep it secret!!!!! I don't want to know. (send me a PM)
  14. looking across at garfield from chair last month the amount of rock is insane!!! but from the sounds of infinite bliss it doesn't lend itself to natural protection. I ain't no free soloist, but I'll climb a route with some runouts on it... is it legal to bolt with a hand-drill in there? would a ground up bolted on lead route be frowned on? I personally would climb it if the grade was within my ability, and the runouts were not life threatening, hell, I'd put it up if I had any experience bolting on lead, or even bolting in general!
  15. sure I want to go climbing, but I have mother effin' school to go to!!!
  16. past fall? like fall of '09? I know someone who did it last summer (july?) and bolts were intact. it seems like there would be some fan fair and at least 1 heated thread here. since I have heard neither, I think the bolts are still intact, and your source is BS.
  17. I really want to aid at index next weekend, getting up there is the problem. but the 7 day forecast is for sun on sunday!!! If it works out I'll go.
  18. it's still january!!!! winter is just getting started. but I do love me some spring.
  19. damn. that's no good.
  20. damn, that's why I don't climb at peshastin, granite isn't as scary.
  21. date a hot rich girl with a car. ultimate setup.
  22. stewie, would you be interested in a trip to vantage (frenchman coulee is the proper name I think) whenever we get a weekend that it doesn't rain? I could make it up to the park and ride pretty easily.
  23. swing by olympia while your at it and get me. I also happen to be 17, I have ice screws, half ropes, tools, and a full rack. isn't the ice gone now? it's been balmy in oly for the last few weeks.
  24. bryant peak at snoqualmie pass, no rope needed, some good steep snow.2nd tool not needed, but could be used if you wanted the practice.
  25. and 6 shiny never used belay devices? wtf?
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