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keenwesh

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Everything posted by keenwesh

  1. yeah, I know how to solo aid, it really isn't all that hard. I can see why offsets rule. on CP I was sketched on a couple of placements because they nuts were just inside a flare, also, cams had only 2 cams well retracted. mastercams? what sizes should I get? I'm thinking offsets in the small sizes up to around a #1 and then regular to #3. the bigger sizes I'll get C4's. waiting until I get (hopefully) a job at my local gear shop to save some dough.
  2. I only had 1 blue alien, to leapfrog you'd need 2. in a couple spots I could get in a green but that was it. what's the aid like on green dragon? should I get a couple cam hooks and more small nuts/cams?
  3. I'm soloing with a clove hitch and a 11 mil rope. it doesn't really feed through a gri very well, and I don't have a gri, I just borrow them from my sporto friends, so I can't mod it.how do you remain stable topstepping? I don't have a fifi but I was using a adj. daisy pulled in really tight and I just didn't feel stable in the top step. rising up on my toes in the 2nd highest step felt okay though. tips?
  4. hey, anyone want to teach me to aid climb efficiently?! I figure me fucking around by myself on a clif will take a long while to get good, plus, my rack isn't all that big in the small sizes. anyone want to do a upper town wall route with someone with minimal aid experience? well, slow aid experience?
  5. stupid double post.
  6. managed to climb city park in the blazingly slow time of 3 hours today. ended up running out of small nuts and cams 30 feet short of the top, and that was with backcleaning. any tips on how to move faster? also, another couple was out there and the dude told me to do green dragon as opposed to town crier. are there any ledges on the drag-on? can I pendulum in to a ledge on TC? should I just sack up and learn how to aid quickly? also, are there bolted belays on either routes for quick and easy bailing?
  7. so go with the econoledge? would it cost extra to extend it 5-6 inches longer? thing is I don't have 800$ to throw down right now. sewing your own fly? again, is that feasible?
  8. cool, I need to get my aid systems dialed too. heading up to index to solo city park on tuesday. my mom's making me look at colleges so I'm climbing on my way up to bham. what do you guys think of the fish econoledge? can you make your own fly for it? also, are there any ledges that are 7 feet long? I'm 6'6" and would prefer not to have to dangle my gangly appendages off the edge of a ledge. thanks!
  9. are there ledges on town crier? I want to do it solo but I know it would take me more than a day. any thing big enough to sleep on? I don't mind uncomfortable, after all, it's part of the experience! ha. actually I'm dirt poor and don't want to buy a portaledge.
  10. sounds good, I'll bring a tiblock along to keep me from getting pulled off.
  11. so that's like ~200 feet to the lip? how much aid is above the lip? a pitch and a half?
  12. thanks letsroll, nice pic too.
  13. how hard is freedom rider? isn't it like mid 11? I kinda want to do the lip, it looks really cool. I suppose I could fix a 70 and a 60, it's just I don't want to haul the extra rope up there. maybe I'll just get my partner to carry it... also, from my minimal aid experience I really don't think I could get up those first 3 pitches fast enough to do the last 10. I guess I'll have to spend more time at index getting my aid on. anyone have a grigri they want to sell me for cheap? I feel bad hauling others along to belay my slow ass on aid.
  14. anyone at all? come on people! what about you ivan?
  15. how many ropes? will a single 70M reach? also, above the first 3 pitches is there any aid that actually requires aiders? I lead mid 5.10. can I pull on gear in a couple sections and make it through? I don't really want to haul all that shit up there.
  16. nice! you guys just cruised it. how long of a rap is it? could you do it with just 1 50m rope? also, looks like you guys didn't really rope up for anything. did you pull out the rope for anything other than the rap?
  17. nice work! so, are the runnels in?
  18. my dad probably wouldn't buy me beer, and that's a damn shame!
  19. yeah, I could get a few people to spend $30 those shirts, whadya say? I love index just as much as any other, I just don't have that much. it's like the story of the clockmaker giving the gift to baby jesus and somehow he loses his clock and ends up giving a apple instead, and jesus understands and smiles at him, the inanimate doll jesus smiles at him! smile at me index fund man please!
  20. nice!
  21. shirt looks sick!, too bad I don't have $300 bucks to donate. I could afford like ~30$. any chance of that happening? I'm not stingy, I'm just a 17 year old without a job.
  22. Sounds like u have had experience with this? yeah, kinda the main thing that turned me off to mtntools and CCH. I ordered 2 aliens, a blue and a green, expecting that they would ship in a reasonable time, like withing 2 weeks or so. after 2 weeks I gave them a call (mtntools) and no answer, they didn't answer their phone for 3 days so I called CCH instead to find out that mtntools guy was at some convention. anyway, after attempting to reach someone for over a week I got a response. it said basically that the aliens would ship when they shipped. I said okay and waited. 2 months later I decide to just cancel my order and get a couple C4's instead, that goes through, 2 weeks later I get a package. inside are the 2 aliens I cancelled and 2 C4's! that kinda ticked me off. (did end up keeping the aliens by the way) idk. if you don't need them right away and not really care order from mtntools. you'll get what you order eventually.
  23. get em on mountaintools.com they won't ship until you wait for 2+ months though...
  24. that .5 is mighty enticing....
  25. just going to cart more people to the same terrain. That's why I climb and kayak or go to the BC instead of the resort.
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