keenwesh

but there was a 200 ft section below the E face that was leg breaking postholing with thick crust.

I think all that new snow slid, because there was a fracture up high, and bare old icy snow. all the new snow we had a week or so ago is gone, at least on the broad slope below the rap gully.

cool shots! upper slopes were totally stable, hard, icy snow. there was hoar everywhere though, especially in the trees, be careful after the next storm. it was windy as hell up there! it tapered off when we hit the summit though.

fixed.

why does it look like that????????!!!!!!! shiiiiittttttt.

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Date: 12/27/2009 Trip Report: beautiful bluebird skies and only one other party on route! sitting on the summit for the 2nd time in less than a month! did the N face last time and ended up rapping in the dark nice sunset though. anyway, back to today. top ice step was in nice, it's vertical, but only for a dozen feet maybe. didn't get any pics of the first pitch, but we went up through the right side, it wasn't in the last time I was up here. it was my favorite pitch, clip the tat, climb 30 ft, place a nut, and run it out to the trees! made 2 raps, we had half ropes, but they're 50's so why not savor it, after all, the time before I was forced to stop mid rappel and untangle the mother of all clusterfucks, who knew how badly a butterfly coil could get tangled when thrown into the wind? right now crampons are need to descend down to where people ditch their poles, it's icy hard compacted snow. overall a fantastic day in the mountains. PS, who were you, solo reconnoiter, that we talked to on our way up? your beard was frozen. Gear Notes: 1-2 pickets, 2 screws, shorter are better. I only used one #7 nut on the first pitch. a 60 single or half ropes. wind repellent Approach Notes: no flotation req. although there were a pair of perfectly good snowshoes sitting next to the approach trail when we walked by them in the morning and still there around 3 when we left, who knows?

yeah, sorry, I should have read goatboy's TR first. nice ascent!!! the very finite spur

snowshoes required?

how's the approach to the NE Butt of chair past source lake? snowshoes required? looks like a good tour, if I hadn't already taken my splitboard out this week I would be trying the circ. on sunday.

anyone done either of these? looking for some info. what are the routes like in december-january? thanks

Neoprene paddlers gloves? I've never thought of wearing them when I'm not boating, but now that you mention it I might try that.

in the summer. freak occurrence. be careful around trees I guess!

my dad had a huge oak limb fall on the car he was in. (he was maybe 8 years old) on a windless day in minnesota, totally destroyed the car he was in and nearly killed him, my grandmother, and my two aunts.

what boots would you recommend in size 15 for denali then? I have a pair of old lowa double plastics, would they work if I got a new inner for them? I don't want to be losing any toes/toenails.

do they make any super warm boots in the 14-15 size range? I just scored a pair of Garmont tower GTX's in size 14, but they're not warm enough by themselves, how much do overboots add to warmth?

anyone know when the triple couliors and gerber-sink will come into shape? jan-feb? I'd like to get one of those done this year.

so, you suggest a 2 and 5 bugaboo and a 5 lost arrow, and a small angle thrown in for fun?

is a baby angle the same as a sawed off angle? sorry, I'm a total noob when it comes to pitons... or archaic forms of rock pro in general.

what pitons will be best suited to climbing alpine ice routes in WA? I'm thinking triple couliors, stuart glacier coulior, snoqualmie pass climbs. bugaboos? knifeblades? small angles?

if you strip it just take a hacksaw and cut a new thread...

sweet, so instead of getting hit with a bullet you'll get nailed by an arrow!

if i type in wastateice.com or click your link it automaticly redirects me to http://www.moonrisehosting.com/ why is this happening to me?!?!?! anyone know the status of snoqualmie pass ice? like on chair or the tooth?

how many people have stabbed themselves drytooling? it seems that if your tool blew as you rocked up on it while heelhooking you would disembowel yourself in aprox. .5 seconds.

too expensive...

goodluck, the weather is getting nasty fast...