stevetimetravlr

I am a Bill Coe fan! Bill is the MAN! Raindawg, admit you are a secrect admirer, come on, its ok, come on out! Jesus loves us all! Big hug.

Great trip report! Eburgs got the goods for sure if you can find it. What is the waterfall up in the hills in a canyon to the south of E-burg that the old stage road goes into does anyone know? Takes 4 wheel drive to go down into it.

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Just yanking your chain dude, and using your line of reasoning that if you kick someones ass they will change their behavior! Ya got to see the humor, come on! Happy New Year to you as well.

FRankazoid, maybe you just need your ass kicked and then you'll change your mind?

the REAL North Bend is in Washington....

It was cold out there today for sure. the wind was howling. But me and Rick weren't the only ones out. Lucky Larry was getting er done.... http://www.vimeo.com/18354779 Plaid, I'll belay you this week on Physic Wound as long as I can deploy my portaledge and hangout with my stove and a good book while you get it done.

It is wonderful. Routes that fixed draws are on, they are generally on all the time. It allows ANYONE to climb those routes IF THEY HAVE THE ABILITY or at least to give the route a try and if they can't make it to pull the rope with no loss of gear. Most 5.13 and 5.14 routes need to be worked by most normal people over time to be able to climb them unless you are Ian Caldwell or Sharma or superhuman. Its Smith Rock guys, just another Chosspile in the oregon desert.

Nice! Good effort and beta. How was the hoof up there? I'm thinking I might have to take the topout trail and use some top rope anchors until its gets phat but thats me, I'm not so bold. Was the Schoolroom area in(where the bench is)? Seems like that might be a optimun place with the midpoint anchors, and it has a constant drip even in the summer time.

No it wasn't. But I got some observations. 1) I watched the video..it was disturbing several different ways. The "draw-poaching" guy wasn't straight forward, panicked, and spouted out a bunch of nonsense about worn 'biners and such. He should have just 'fessed up that he was collecting booty from seemingly abandoned gear. 2) the people who confronted this guy were extremely condescending (talking to this guy as if he was 5 years old) and justifying their leaving of gear because it was a big, bad, "5.14" or whatever. Well, another prespective would say that if you left your gear, and a guy could easily aid-climb it with a stick-clip because the bolts were so close together, then basically the so-called "5.14 climbers" were in the process of siege-climbing a route way over their heads. So maybe they should have left a sign at the base that said "Do Not Disturb, Siege Climb In Progress". On the other hand, I think it's inappropriate to take things that don't belong to you when there is a grey area, that is, the possibility that someone might actually be coming back for their abandoned gear, fixed rope, etc. But I would be tempted to clean the left-behind debris and leave the draws clipped several bolts off the ground, or leave it with the rangers who might have their own opinion about such a dubious practice. You so 5.14 tough? Have some respect and pull your gear when you're done playing for the day. You don't own the public space and you don't have a right to dominate it until you feel you're "finished with it". You got "the moves"? It shouldn't be a problem now, should it! And all of you violence-spouting "tough guys" talking 'bout punching the dude out and such....go back into your savage caves cuz reality says, indignant or not, you gonna do jail time if you act-out like a thug. Guaranteed! You think the judge cares about your special "project" on public land???? MY HEAD JUST EXPLODED!!!

Djdan, so now laziness is the problem? Fixed draws at Smith are a community service. Obviously you have not tried to climb anything really hard at Smith. The beauty of fixed draws is that you can bail anywhere on the route and just pull your rope and not leave gear. For the hard climbs at Smith, it is the answer. Jeezus, please no more morons on this site, my head is going to explode.

Sorry to hear you have been sick Joseph. Its buttass cold out there at Beacon right now. Me and Plaid are supposed to finish our aid route, but I think its even to cold for that! I've just been dreaming of warm granite and hot babes....belayers I mean.

You guys could always use the Wilson method where you just have one rope and tie a fifi into the end and utilizing a thick rubber band, when you unweight the rope at the end of the rap, it fires the fifi off the anchor and the rope falls down. Just don't unweight the rope during the rap. This is perhaps not a everyday rap option, but it sure works great and with one 60 meter you can rap 200 feet.

I think these guys handled it exactly right. They videotaped the whole thing, confronted the guy, explained why he was in the wrong, and then posted it so that the guy is known. Giving the guy a case of whoopass would have made them the criminals, plus the guy looked like a wimp, he had a chick with him, he was not confrontative, and they got their draws back. So it all went down as well as could have been expected.

Stevie likey!

Sun Mountain Lodge cabins.

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I know nothing.

Mike, thats sick. Way to send. and the moral of the story is....when in China don't tell them anything, especially what you are going to do in the mountains, just go do it. We don't need no stinking permits... and if somebody says something, well you don't speaky no Chinese.

Get REI's CEO job and change how they operate. Maybe get on the Board of directors first to get yourself acquainted. Who wants to work in retail sales anyway?

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La Grande? Are you serious??? What the...?

I heard that Climbmax Mountaineering shop in Portland was possibly closing shop. Is this true? If so, what a bummer.

hey, you guys need to get a portaledge. Does anyone climb on this site anymore?

I was going by what Plaid told me he thought was Dutchmans. Thanks for the info guys. That upper pitch goes free? If its thin hard aid, hard to imagine freeing that micro crack and protecting it. Hey, Merry flipping Christmas guys!