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Thats crazy! Wow, pineapple express is bringing it on!

That was totally awesome.

Harsh dude. Thats not right to say shit like that. Pretty divisive. We all understand its tough to move away and live in nebraska and not get to climb much, but come on..... I think I've seen all those faces around at differnet places in the past. but not sure I've ever seen Pinks curly locks. Looks like a good crew. Man I miss the warm sun and the south face already, and its only been a couple weeks!

hey, who knows these guys? Dude posted over at Supertopo about his favorite crag being Beacon, obviously knows what hes talking about! Looks like they are having fun, but since i am a gorge rat, I don't recognize them but figured the rest of the crew knows them.

Whats wrong with the Russians? Based on the few on this site that climb, I would say they are a pretty badass crew. Even the women will kick your butt!

Beacon had been a year round training ground for many of the top big wall climbers in the past, but the peregrine closure put the kabosh on that. Now for the first time in 16 years(?) we finally have a multipitch climb that can be done in the closure season and folks appear to be interested in climbing it, even Jim said he wants to go up it. More people might start climbing out at Beacon, oh no! Maybe even wall climbers and aid climbers, lord forbid, an aid renaissance so to speak! The route might even go free to a strong climber on a dry day someday, like it did to Pink. Heck, we might even get organized and get people involved as a group and do something for ourselves and the Park. Many of the abandoned south side routes might get cleaned up and climbed again, and anchors fixed up. People might get enthusiatic about Beacon again, and things start happening there that would improve the climbers lot.

Right on Mike. Way to get after it, sending in style. Here ya are coming down to visit on the 2nd pitch.

I could beat myself with a stick...

I think the outhouses at Vantage would be a #1 priority, and I rarely climb there so Im not biased. Its just thats it turned into a giant turd field there now, and getting worse. Sick.

You don't think its R rated in a few places? Kenny broke his tailbone on it, remember? Especially since the route is usually only climbed in winter in the cold, rain, and wind. It is a area different then the rest of Beacon and demands different tactics. How can you bitch about a 6 pitch summit route that starts from the parking lot and basically takes 2 winter days to finish and even has a bivy ledge half way to boot. Of course, Im not talking of a day like today bluebird, but more like what it was last Saturday and what it will be like this coming Saturday. If you try it, you'll like it. Its a big endeavour.

It hasn't gone anywhere? You can climb there this weekend as a matter of fact. Take a number to get on the Soup!

It must be Right Gull

Pink: I l-left a message on ahhh,regarding that Soup route. Ivan: A message? What number did you call? Pink: Two, four, niner, five, six, seven... Ivan: I can't hear you, you're trailing off and did I catch a niner in there? Were you calling from a walkie-talkie? Pink: No, it was cordless.

I'll have to add Borderline to the List for next year. In looking at Olsens color map see that he upgraded Bears in Heat from 10d(old guide) to 11b. Thats more in line with what I thought, it was stout. Ivan, r u sure thats not just a birthmark that comes and goes?

ok, that explains everything Ivan! Pipeline rockfall?

Rock Pirates. Robert McGown first ascent. First free ascent M. Cartier and D. Nakahira 1985 The saame guys that did 1st free ascent of Bears in Heat, must have been prolific ass kickers.

I getting kind of old myself. Just noticed the second line right of Blownout is called Rock Pirates. 5.12 and runout it says. The topo shows at least 12 bolts on it, thats a Beacon rarity in one pitch.

I just looked at Tim Olsens big poster map of Beacon that I have laminated. It looks like Borderline is the line left of Blownout, and Second Wind goes right. Says Borderline is 11b and Second Wind is 11d, yikes. Stout. How is Borderline?

Just changed the question. Second Wind is what I was wondering about. Jim said the bolts on it are crappy. but it looks really cool.

Affirmative. That was Bears in Heat. Classic direct start to Blownout below. Anyone done the 11b route that goes right partway up the 2nd pitch of Blownout, I think its called Second wind?

Holy Carp. good photos guys. I feel inadequate. How about this splitter?

Here's a novel idea. Its the off season at Beacon, and anxiety runs high. Lets not argue and bicker about who killed who, so I'll just post a few pics, who can tell me what route its on. Keep the stoke up for summer. It will be here before we know it.

over 7 pitches, there are: 3 instances of 3 bolts being clipped in a row 4 instances of 2 bolts in a row depending on the climber, 4 or more hook moves that's over-protected? I wasn't going to post to this thread no mo, but just can't help myself. I just want to remind folks that what you might percieve as a bolt ladder(2 or 3 bolts in a row) actually requires gear and very creative tactices to utilize as when you do the climb, if you ever do, you will find that out. Ivan is a tall dude and the few places there are bolts in sucession, they are not clip ups. It took me 10 minutes on the first pitch to go from one bolt to another, plus allot of swearing, head scratching, a creative placement, and some free climbing. Fawk, now you got the beta, you should be able to walk up it. Not.

Alrighty now, thanks for the business Bill! and yes Ivan, I did have a birthday and fell asleep on the couch before they cut the cake. So I am fresh as a daisy today. and Jim Anglin was the MAN! What a great dude, who was always out there getting after it, always something positive to say, just a animal. Wise words. He did me a super good turn right before he passed and I never got to say thank you to him.

You guys are full of it. Sprayin about a route none of ya have ever done or even looked at up close, except maybe Pink free climbing part of it low down on the route years ago. I had no contribution to the first ascent, wish i would have, but from what I can see from doing the first 2 pitches it is a proud line and pretty bold, done in winter and adverse conditions. For one thing, its not a free friendly area being the NW face area it is mossy and slimey overall. This is no "aid renaissance" but simply one of the only alternatives at Beacon since the closure kicked in going up in a area where no one ever ventures. I have no desire to free climb the route and I doubt anyone else really does either. Its really bold of you guys to get on here and spray about it and talk smack, but I haven't and doubt I will see any of you on it. Harden the fawk up and get on it and then we can talk or serve yourself up another helping of WEAK SAUCE.