akhalteke

I have a co-worker that has a hippy ass wife that is like this and I have watched their daughter turn into a drama queen harlot... all at the age of 6. On the other hand, I always thought that I would be a kid spanker, but after having a kid; I don't have it in me. I think that it isn't really necessary if you are a consistent and strong leader for your child.

You reap what you sow...

How long do you think vaccine science has been around homey?

Never said it Kevie. Just implied that either Paul was a RACIAL bigot or a horrible proofreader with little attention to detail; or a base panderer (which is more likely the case as this is what this whole issue boils down to).

Obama singed the NDAA act. He is part of the problem. How can you vote for someone who can put you away for life without cause or proof. THINK!!!!! How can YOU vote for bigots that wish to treat homosexuals like our country treated african americans in the 60's? THINK!!!

You can take it out of the tens of thousands of dollars that it costs to incarcerate the pot smokers currently in the clink...

I am completely mortified at the level of bigotry coming from all the candidates. I was in D.C. last week and these hateful talking point were all over the place and this homophobic crap made me physically nauseated. I don't agree with all the Santorum blasting by the homosexual community but I think he deserves it. I think the political polarization has made our great country regress and it will take a lot of time to fix the rifts we are creating. I would say that the only candidate above this is Paul; with his complicity in the racially charged newsletters published under his name, it is disheartening. At this point... wait for it.... I will be voting for Obama. At least I can count on him not to be a base pandering bigot.

Ohhhhhhhhhh, no he wasn't. If you look hard enough, he still survives in ancient threads glorifying the posterity of this little sandbox we call home... I miss that crazy bastard; though I suppose he may be reincarnated here somewhere...

We formerly used serial Moore Knots (inefficient as hell). We have switched to using the reverso in guide mode and it works marvelously. I am sure there are people that would recommend using another back-up, but hey, I trust my partners' lives with the reverso in the guide mode while bringing up two seconds.... and the functionality is identical. After testing, we could not find a single instance where the orientation of the rig would compromise the brake. We even tried to incorporate some twists that were (theoretically) possible and could not create a failure with a 100KG mass.

I'd say it has a lot to do with your fitness level. The aforementioned plan is a good one if you are in extremely good shape. It takes a surprisingly long time to recover from these types of activities. I would err on the side of caution and climb the first day or two at altitude and then rest and ram hydrate. Much of the AMS issues can be mitigated by ensuring that you are adequately hydrated particularly due to the diuresis of bicarb with aids in acclimatization. It is hard to get completely hydrated in 1 day. If you are a stud, you will have no issues either way (likely) so I would recommend doing muir, adams as other posters have suggested but do it the first couple days and just chill out and get fat and hydrated before your summit push. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Rational thinkers don't make the best soldiers so science is lacking there. Beg to differ hommie.

You guys sure showed those Christians! Little hypocritical when you call for blowing up a people because you don't think they are tolerant enough eh? Just sayin'

More like Whomeverob (or oba) Just sayin.'

They are not Polish...

Not quite accurate. Perhaps the author could do a bit more research and find out what the name of their company is now. Looking at the website, it looks like a typical kook-site. Look at the web header with cross hairs on the white house. I am not surprised that it was you that posted this Kev.

Question: Is there a way to set routes at a given grade? I seem to set V2's every time and want something a little harder. I have been simply trading out holds for smaller ones or moving them farther away, but this kinda makes the routes, well, crappy. I have a new found respect for the route setters at my local gym as this is proving more and more difficult. I guess that is 1/2 the fun though. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions or things that work for you.

You WILL get a shitty headache though on a one-day ascent to 14 while acclimatized to sea level. They CAN shut you down just because they hurt so damn bad!

That would be incorrect. HACE is actually pretty rare at almost any elevation, but can certainly be seen well below 20,000 feet and at elevations that can be reached in the Sierra, on Rainier, Colorado etc. One reason we may not see a ton of it here is that with severe altitude illness (HACE, HAPE), there's an important interaction between the altitude you reach and the time you spend there. It's not just a question of how high you go. It's easy to get into a range where HAPE and HACE can occur on Rainier but the nature of the climbs is such that most people hit the summit and come down soon thereafter, not allowing as much time for the problems to develop. This is different than trekking/climbing in Nepal where you might travel and stay above 14K for many days. Travel to and sleep in the summit crater on Rainier and the risk of those problems is higher than the standard ascent and descent soon after. "Epic efforts" don't bring on AMS itself. What epic efforts do is bring on dehydration and/or physical exhaustion, whose symptoms can resemble the non-specific symptoms of AMS. There was a recent death by a cadet here in town of HAPE. This was only ~6,500 ft. There are not hard and fast rules and much of it comes down to the individual. I honestly do not believe that your will be incapacitated at 14,000 ft unless there is something wrong with you. We DID have one guy on an expedition who got to 12,000 and was crushed; Went to 15,000 and I had to put him in the Gamow bag and get him down asap. This gent did have a Hx of HAPE and severe AMS on Shasta or some other 14er but it is really really rare for someone to be this shitty at altitude. I would say the more likely dangers (especially solo) are crevasses, rock fall and weather. All of these dangers can be reduced by knowledge and timing but still risky; even for a seasoned glacier mountaineer.

Just finished (relative term) my new after work diversion. Got a couple routes on it and have lots of space for expansion. Let me know what you think. Thinking about doing some volumes or maybe building a less steep ice wall on the back side.

Fawk yeah Bubbles! Get some!

14er...

There ya go champ.

Your a pretty confusing person. Your only comparison to Rainier was colorado despite being a world class mountaineer? Despite being all around the world with the 6 summits and with 25 ascents of Rainier, you only have 2 trip reports at a local Colorado crag and you look like your about 28. Hmmmm... Anyways I have all of your list that I can use soloing except how to prevent AMS. I only know how to be aware of the symptoms and try to do things to reduce it, but I'm not at the zen like level to eliminate AMS after travelling about 9000' in a few days. I know crevasse rescue etc., but somehow I don't think there is anything I can say to satisfy you. Most of the skills are qualitative, ie, there are experts who can manage ropes extremely efficiency or read glacier terrain better than I could ever achieve, the same way I will never climb 5.14+. Yeah dude, fuck it. Since it is qualitative, just don't learn it. Good idea. I think it is time I get a new sig line as well. Sorry, I don't post trip reports, my job requires I travel frequently, and I rarely have much time post trip to do a TR.

lolwut? More sanctimony over a pretty serious issue. You know jackall about what happened. Competent climbers die all the time for reasons beyond their control and this situation may or not may have anything to do with soloing the DC. Again, you don't seem to understand that to dissuade someone you have to show there is a gulf between their abilities and goals, not just shrieking and pointing to likely unrelated mistakes in the past. Do you know how to do everything in my previous post? No. There is your gulf; fill it or be crevasse bait, I don't care. Lets put it this way chappy, I have 6 of the seven summits more than you, 25+ ascents of Rainier and have climbed all over the World. The only place I have seen a dead mountain climber is Rainier and I have seen two. You want to go not heeding the posters on this board? Fine. Just shut the fuck up and do it then. See you in hell.