marc_leclerc

haha... its great when these 5.12 climbers come outdoors and cant do the 5.9 crack climbs and get scared shitless on the 6 foot runouts

If you have a 4x4 the road is fine to the trailhead on the E side.. the west side road is gated right at chilliwack lake road. Im sure the pocket glacier is going to be sending chunks of ice down the mountain still and It wont be a while until it slides... Im also sure that once you are on NEB it will be dry and snowfree with snow to melt at the bivi platform

yep.. everything except for SW gulley looked dry

Yeah, Ty and I climbed this route no problem via the north face Wow.. more badass climbers of the highest caliber^

Thanks for the info! I wouldnt mind climbing that route soon. If you ever want to go there and do Speedway again let me know. It may be nice having someone thats done the route before with me so I dont get lost ...

AYE! AYE! AYE! x 1000000

my sister has spray on tan

Im eating Macaroni, Im also drinking grapefruit juice.. its good. Im going to have more macaroni.

lol.. its my first real alpine multipitch route... the most I have done is like 3 pitch cragging routes and easy low 5th stuff like Nesakwatch Spires and Rexford. If you just follow the most obvious lines of least resistance you just end up at the next belay... I think if someone relied on books and shit to keep them on track they would be more likely to get lost. But your 'opiniated description' is excellent.. It fell out of my pocket on pitch 7 but It would be hard to get lost on the final pitches cuz you just follow big corner cracks and bolts... I want to go back and do Speedway soon.. is speedway any harder than Yak Check? Y.C was all easy climbing but the rock was a little bit crappy for about a pitch or so and the pro is adequate. If your not confident at leading or the climb was at the limit if your abilities then it may be a bit scary but I dont think you would die or get too hurt if you fell in mostof those spots.... I heard that Speedway has some mega runouts on it though???

hahaha.. that was funny. 'If you have anything phsycologicaly wrong or you are on any medications, Im not interested'... haha

QFCSXr6qnv4 If your ever feeling down! But look out for vortexes and foogal fish..

11 hours! that seems like quite a long time for this.. If you ran into some routefinding errors or something that could happen tho.... its definitely a great climb tho!

That sure looks like fun... where abouts is this mountain?

Im interested in doing Slesse ... but Im 15 and can't grab a beer afterwards cuz its illegal for me ....

Thanks Braydon.. its nice to know there's another climber on this board thats my age..

But I dont get the day off... how dumb Canada day is supposed to be really nice and sunny!

Trip: Yak Peak - Yak Check Date: 6/28/2008 Trip Report: After making some last minute plans to do Yak, Reinhard picked me up in Agassiz at 6:00 on Friday Evening. We drove up highway #5 to the rest stop area below Yak Peak and hiked into the base of the climb. We set up a bivi right near the bottom of the route and hung out at camp then slept until 5:00 Saturday morning. We packed up and put our stuff we didn't need down near the trail where we would be coming back. We racked up and did the quick scramble to the base of the big dihedral that makes up the first three pitches of the route. As Dru points out in his "opinionated description' on Bivouac.com it is easier to go left and up to the base of Reality Check and traverse right to the base of Yak Crack to begin the climb. The first three pitches were all easy 5.6 up a cool crack just left of the dihedral. I led the first two pitches and Reinhard led the third up to lunch ledge. After lunch ledge the climbing starts getting a bit more serious with less protection and slightly trickier climbing and routefinding. I led up pitch 4 placing tiny gear behind small flakes and clipping a fixed pin near the top, pitch 5 was an easy 5.8 which involved getting over some overlaps then climbing crumbling flakes to a belay just left of some cool looking corners. Pitch 6 was evil, definitely the most serious pitch on the route. I started up by laybacking some really nice corners but then the rock starts getting crumbly and you have to pull some overlaps with 'oatmeal like' rock to the next belay. It didn't help that I had a lot of rope drag and needed a bathroom break. After pitch 6, however, the climbing became excellent again. Pitch 7 was my favourite, you get to layback underneath a flake, up the side, then back over the top before laybacking along a big flake and pulling over the top of the 'see through' flake and belaying. We walked over the top of the flake and then climbed a cool corner crack for a couple pitches and then I led the '5.10a' (read 5.9) face climb. It was fun but surprisingly easy, the only tricky moves are right near the second bolt and it is still pretty easy. The second '5.10a' pitch was barely more than a 5.8, but still fun. The last pitch was a fourth class scramble up the slab into the trees and top of the sub-summit. The descent is corniced snow at the moment so we rapped down near a gully on the right side of the east face and walked the snowy trail back to the base. I thought the route was excellent, the rock was good except for part of the 6th and maybe the end of the 5th pitch. The climbing was fun and pretty straight forward. The only bummer was that the 5.10 that I was stoked for was only 5.9- ... it was still lots of fun though! We took quite a long time on the route for a couple reasons, I led basically every pitch (except for pitch 3) so we didnt have the speed advantage of swinging leads and we just took it pretty slow as we got an early start.. a fast party could probably do it between 4-6 hours.. we took about 8 hours total. Dru's 'Opiniated description' on bivouac.com is a really good, detailed information source on the climb, bring it with you! Approaching the mountain Scrambling to the base of the route The big dihedral, the route is over on the left, on the other side of the arete. First three pitches Reinhard at top of Pitch 3 My shadow, top of pitch 4 Looking up at pitch 5 Reinhard following pitch 4 At the top of Pitch 5 Me at the base of Pitch 6, im smiling because I have no idea what's waiting for me on Pitch 6 Me on pitch 6, still having fun at this point. I didnt really get any pics on the upper section of the route unfortunately. But I got one pic. Reinhard coming up pitch 11 The End Gear Notes: Lots of small/finger size peices and a couple larger cams, one set of stoppers is more than enough for this route. Approach Notes: Climbers trail form rest area.

anybody know whats the youngest ascent of Yak Check? I climbed it yesterday

If three cams cant hold three people hanging still id be pretty scared taking whippers on them... that movie made me laugh a lot

What are conditions like now???? anybody?? Late June it should be dry..???

its good... I can almost get to the ledge without falling while on the lead... the new bolts help especially in the lower section.. but the bolt you added a few feet below the ledge is hard to clip so I skip it and fall onto the old 3rd bolt in that section. The only move I cant do is standing up and reching the better locks a couple feet below that ledge part way up.. otherwise I have it. Can I try for the FA? or do you want me to wait until you get back.. I think that once I get the move it looks like 5.10 climbing to the top...

Anybody know what conditions the routes are in? Are any routes dry, or dry enough to climb? Speedway? Yak Check? Reality Check? Porcelain Chicken or Hole in My Heaven??? Any info would be great! Thanks! Marc

Well that shouldnt be too hard since there has been less than a handful of parties in there to climb Where are you going/camping in the Pantheons ? Thge first week of August.. I think we a re base camping somewhre beneath that big face on Astarte.. it should be wicked.. we are in the mountains for a week..

I don't know who made the youngest ascent of the NEB of Slesse but I suspect the age record at the moment is <14. Hmm too late then... maybe ill get a youngest ascent when I go to the Pantheons in August...

Dru.. do you know about Slesse's NEB? If I do it at 15 will it be a youngest ascent? Or do I have to lead everything for that to count?