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marc_leclerc

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Everything posted by marc_leclerc

  1. marc_leclerc

    A Riddle

    .... hmmmmmm.. this is tricky... a hint? is it something gross and sick (i.e meant to be funny) or is it a real riddle?
  2. my friend has a funny first lead fall.. he was laybacking a crack and arguing that it was easier than jamming, i then told him his leg was on the wrong side of the rope and he argued about that too. I noticed he was starting to pump and struggle and I laughed at him for laybacking and making it harder, then he fell off. His leg was on the wrong side and he flipped over and bounced down the dihedral a few times and came to a stop 15 ft above me. He finished the route by jamming, lol
  3. I think someone should solo this route.... barefoot, that would be cool.
  4. sorry, chipmunks dont quite match Steven Tyler lol.... he could probably match their pitch though!
  5. stfu or say something that doesnt make me sleepy
  6. -twbQt-w93Q&feature=related practice falls are gay.... dont do them, they can be dangerous and nobody wants to look this silly^
  7. I agree that practice falls are utterly useless.. if you must fall to overcome some fear just jump on a really hard climb, push yourself and fall off naturally... then you get something from it
  8. The people to be afraid of are the guys who are the typical '5.12 in the gym' climbers. I used to be like that and me and my friends thaought we would be doing favoursr by bolting all the classic trad routes and grid bolting every rock we could find. luckily I was too poor to actually do this.. phew!
  9. Most inverted falls occur when people are climbing so hard that they cant think about what will happen when they fall... it shouldnt happen and it sucks ass bit shit happens man! My inverted fall was on a 5.12+ and I was trying to clip of a terrible crimp.. when my hand blew off all the slack i had pulled to clip went through my leg. That stuff doesnt happen as much on bigger routes and trad climbs but on tought sport climb stuff like that happens to experienced climbers and noobs alike.. 5_cfMSG43tU My fall was alot like this one^ and he is one of the best climbers alive... shit happens!
  10. This is the most amazing version I have ever heard of this.... being an Aerosmith fan of course! Enjoy 3_7unIvB8PU
  11. Inverted falls come from no where... I once took an inverted fall and ended up landing on my belayer head first. I couldnt figure out what had happened until I saw the huge gushing gash where the rope had caught my leg. Practice falls are useless. I never needed to practice falling cuz the the first climb i attempted to lead was an 11+ route on a 45 degree wall. I fell off..
  12. a #8 BD stopper. I didnt know how to place gear and never lead tad before and bought myself a set of stoppers, I went straight to Harrison and got my friend to belay on a 5.9 dihedral called great expectation. I got pumped out laybacking and trying to place my stoppers and when I blindly placed that stopper I just started hauling for the top, sure enough I fell off and ended up about 6 ft below my stopper that had held me. I rested and finished the route!
  13. "Practice fall" on a bolt could have caused the same injury.... Very sad. Very True.... wearing a helmet is very smart... I always wear mine and I dont care if I look cool or not... but if the practice fall was two feet above a bolt (wouldnt rip like the gear) the fall would have been much shorter and the climber probably wouldnt have flipped and died. THe safest place to learn to lead and 'practice fall' is in the gym.. climbers can fall off the roof or on overhangs and not get injured
  14. Didnt he reapeat N Butress of Steinbok in the Anderson range??? The one with 5.11 climbing above no/crappy pro and a single micronut belay?
  15. thats retarded..... short practice falls onto bolts are okay but why on gear?
  16. I only did First BLood and LDU ... the trail was nice and easy to follow (not quite as nice as harrison though) and I wanted to do Exaggerator and Life on a chain but I was late for something and had to go... Im going back soon to climb everything!
  17. I went to Nicolum today and on-sighted the crack/layback climb jesse is doing (Land Down Under) ... that was mega fun... good gear and nice realxed climbing.. the 5.10 crux was low down before the flake and the flake was pretty much 5.9 and easy 10a ..
  18. That looks like an intense climb! a bit scary and hard
  19. I read aboutthat.. isnt it called Bamboozled Butress or something? Funny story.
  20. how much harder is the complete?
  21. yay.... im stoked for NEB
  22. the info on Rockclimbing.com is better... more routes . includes the two big routes up the main face
  23. ive fallen farther than that at indoors.... skipping clips of course lol
  24. I think if someone is working on a sweet all trad line you should bolt it every 6 inches and aid it on the bolts.. thats good ethics Also if someone if bolting a sport route chop it and solo it
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